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Old 12-16-2008, 01:12 AM   #3586
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la la la engine cleaning time, So remember kids. Even if MF himself plays with your engine, TAKE IT APART AND CLEAN IT! lol. Found a buncha crap in my new engine tonight. Al chips, a piece of sand in the carb, brass shavings in the HSN body. Super bad engine tho.


getting ready for winternats


how many L oil to rebuild your engine ?
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:40 AM   #3587
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How is front bearing's seal ?
seals good, why?
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:41 AM   #3588
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sure!! i found my MF with a "click" in front bearingthe engine was brand new. also 3 piece of al chips was found inside my OS tz5. so YOU MUST CLEAN IT....

I never run an engine without checking it myself...
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Old 12-16-2008, 01:44 AM   #3589
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how many L oil to rebuild your engine ?
how many what? How many Liters? Haven't had to rebuild one yet (piston / sleeve that is) . I usually replace O rings every gallon or so. Thats it. I tear down the engines after I run them, Clean them and inspect parts.. Just got my XXL3 last night so I will let you guys know..
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:07 AM   #3590
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next step is modifying carb venturi
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:12 AM   #3591
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seals good, why?
I'm just reminding you while you have dismantle the engine that much, then why not to check or replace it.
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:14 AM   #3592
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I never run an engine without checking it myself...
me too, because engine cost too much.
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:32 AM   #3593
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next step is modifying carb venturi
R u going to enlarge the hole ?

Back to 1993, I have two Kyosho GP10 kit. The kit comes with GSX-11 kyosho engine with barrel type carburator. I drilled the carburator air intake. The carburator barrel is made from soft metal, so I can press drill quite easy. I also enlarge the hole in carburator intake opening. So all together, the air intake holes are noticeably bigger than standard kit engine.

I fired up the engine, and TADA !!! I notice significant improvement in acceleration and top speed. The idling noise and acceleration are louder.
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:33 AM   #3594
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
I'm just reminding you while you have dismantle the engine that much, then why not to check or replace it.
probably because that's a brand new engine.............
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Old 12-16-2008, 02:35 AM   #3595
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Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
R u going to enlarge the hole ?

Back to 1993, I have two Kyosho GP10 kit. The kit comes with GSX-11 kyosho engine with barrel type carburator. I drilled the carburator hole. The carburator barrel is made from soft metal, so I can press drill quite easy. I also enlarge the hole in carburator intake opening. So all together, the air intake holes are noticeably bigger than standard kit engine.

I fired up the engine, and TADA !!! I notice significant improvement in acceleration and top speed. The idling noise and acceleration are louder.
not going to make the hole bigger, will still be 5.4mm. We have found that when you make the venturi larger, you lose flow velocity.... ie lose bottom end and a bit of torque. if you notice, the novarossi based carbs have a step where the 5.4 is printed. that is getting radiused. or maybe replaced with OS 5.4 they already have it all setup.
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Old 12-16-2008, 12:27 PM   #3596
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I never run an engine without checking it myself...
I'm only once, as Adrien Bertin assembled it for me
But even at my other engines I didn't have any problems with that.
I'm looking forward to hear how your engine runs. Max-engines were always good.
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Old 12-16-2008, 07:33 PM   #3597
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I'm only once, as Adrien Bertin assembled it for me
But even at my other engines I didn't have any problems with that.
I'm looking forward to hear how your engine runs. Max-engines were always good.
well I have run the XL3's and they kick ass.. I have an XXL3 that I got yesterday and I am going to get that ready aswell.. should be good.. I have arranged to have it dyno'd as well
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Old 12-17-2008, 03:58 AM   #3598
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My first test with NT1 was very good. The car on the track was very stable with almost stock setup. My car was pretty smooth at the corners in low or high speeds. I intend to try the Ankerman A-D to get more steering and both the exit of turn and at the entrance. I also want to try and yellow clutch shoe except the white. I think that the white clutch shoe made my car more smooth. In my first race, the track hadn't enough grip. Then my car was bad. I tried to use 35f and 37r foam tires and it was enough to pass at the the A-main final. Almost with stock setup. I'm really happy from the performance of my car
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:37 AM   #3599
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in small track with hairpin turn,
use which Shock oil & Spring ?

Thankyou !
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Old 12-18-2008, 04:47 AM   #3600
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in small track with hairpin turn,
use which Shock oil & Spring ?

Thankyou !
grip? with decent grip I usually start in the pink range(light purple as xray calls it), 600/1 F and 600/2 R, front arm at top roll center position(one up from stock), rear roll center inner arm pivot one up from stock(raising rear roll center), rear diff 80k (I run as thick of oil as I can without snap oversteer), spool front. maybe try violet all around if the grip is low, and also drop the weight of the rear diff oil, and play with shock oil, another combo that works well sometimes is 600/2 and 500/1 or 2. the heavier diff oil and roll center changes seem to be the biggest changes.front bar flat if stock, about 45 degrees if you have the .7 bar. cheers.
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Last edited by rx7ttlm; 12-18-2008 at 05:58 AM.
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