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Old 09-11-2008, 09:24 AM   #3391
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Originally Posted by Joe Chaplow View Post
Thanks for the advice. You are correct. When I hit the throttle hard is when the right jerk took place. When I went on the throtlle jently, I did not experience this. But this is a tad strange since I have races the kyosho and mugen and never had this problem before. Does the nt1 tend to have a touchy suspension? I talked to another guy who just started running the nt1 and he mentioned he was having suspension problems.

I encountered something similar to what you are talking about. My problem was intermittent, and I could not figure it out once I got back to the pits. Finally while still in practice I immediatley stopped the car in it's tracks when it happened again, went and picked it up and behold. One of the rear dogbones was slipping in and out, once it would slip out that side of the rear suspension was all but locked in place and made for an ill handling ride.

I never experienced this on last years car and this new car had maybe an hour of tracktime on it when this happened. I believe I remember the hit that probably instigated this problem. Look for abnormal signs of wear on your rear d-bones.

Another thing, once you start and warm up the car on the box, while still on the box rev the motor several times and look at all four corners of the car to spot anything unusual.
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Old 09-11-2008, 04:21 PM   #3392
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Originally Posted by Joe Chaplow View Post
Thanks for the advice. You are correct. When I hit the throttle hard is when the right jerk took place. When I went on the throtlle jently, I did not experience this. But this is a tad strange since I have races the kyosho and mugen and never had this problem before. Does the nt1 tend to have a touchy suspension? I talked to another guy who just started running the nt1 and he mentioned he was having suspension problems.
It's probably a building error that was made.
Be really precise with building and take your time.
Don't just screw the car together as fast as you can.
It takes me about 40 hours to build a new car from scratch.
But then the car is perfect and build with a lot attention to detail.
For example: polishing all the hinge pins and pivotballs.

And another trick is to but the car in the oven for 1 hour at 80Celsius. Do take out your engine, electronics and fuel tank.
Let the car completly cool down in the oven, after that all plastics are settled and your suspension will be a lot smoother.
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Old 09-12-2008, 08:18 AM   #3393
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Capricorn has some Teflon coated pivot balls. What's the difference between them and the steel ones?
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:30 AM   #3394
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Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
It's probably a building error that was made.
Be really precise with building and take your time.
Don't just screw the car together as fast as you can.
It takes me about 40 hours to build a new car from scratch.
But then the car is perfect and build with a lot attention to detail.
For example: polishing all the hinge pins and pivotballs.

And another trick is to but the car in the oven for 1 hour at 80Celsius. Do take out your engine, electronics and fuel tank.
Let the car completly cool down in the oven, after that all plastics are settled and your suspension will be a lot smoother.
wow, i never heard of the oven trick!!!

my car was built by a very good mechanic, Abraham Horta is his name and his son races in Florida as well. They have been in R/C for atleast 10 years and he knows a lot. They have made the semis in a worlds event before and he was in position to bump to the main but broke out towards then end of the race. So, i think the build is very good. But, it could have gotten tweaked. Because, i did notice at the beginning it did not have this problem. But then again, at the beginning, I was not trying to push the car hard.

by the way, what is your name? for some reason, i think we have chatted before
thanks,
joe
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Old 09-12-2008, 09:35 AM   #3395
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And another trick is to but the car in the oven for 1 hour at 80Celsius. Do take out your engine, electronics and fuel tank.
Let the car completly cool down in the oven, after that all plastics are settled and your suspension will be a lot smoother.

You're kidding, right??
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Old 09-12-2008, 03:17 PM   #3396
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Originally Posted by Osiris 75 View Post
Capricorn has some Teflon coated pivot balls. What's the difference between them and the steel ones?
They're lighter, they look a lot like the ones serpent uses.
The teflon coating is for less friction

Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Chaplow View Post
wow, i never heard of the oven trick!!!

my car was built by a very good mechanic, Abraham Horta is his name and his son races in Florida as well. They have been in R/C for atleast 10 years and he knows a lot. They have made the semis in a worlds event before and he was in position to bump to the main but broke out towards then end of the race. So, i think the build is very good. But, it could have gotten tweaked. Because, i did notice at the beginning it did not have this problem. But then again, at the beginning, I was not trying to push the car hard.

by the way, what is your name? for some reason, i think we have chatted before
thanks,
joe
Don't think we chatted before, i live in europe, holland to be exact.
But if you're sure the car is build properly, then the first thing i would do is refill the shocks. They always leak a bit after the 1st build. There's is problably too little oil in the right rear shock.

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Originally Posted by ToysRUsKid View Post
You're kidding, right??
Nope, it's a trick which a lot of pro drivers use.
All the plastics in the car are molded on high tempatures and high pressure. Because of this proces there is tension in the material.
If you heat it again but then in the form it is going to be used, the tension go's out of the material and make's the overall fit a lot better. Screw's will go a lot better into the plastic as well, and the plastic last's longer.
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Old 09-12-2008, 04:41 PM   #3397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DS Motorsport View Post
It's probably a building error that was made.
Be really precise with building and take your time.
Don't just screw the car together as fast as you can.
It takes me about 40 hours to build a new car from scratch.
But then the car is perfect and build with a lot attention to detail.
For example: polishing all the hinge pins and pivotballs.

And another trick is to but the car in the oven for 1 hour at 80Celsius. Do take out your engine, electronics and fuel tank.
Let the car completly cool down in the oven, after that all plastics are settled and your suspension will be a lot smoother.
what about the graphite parts do they go in the oven as well
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Old 09-13-2008, 03:16 AM   #3398
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what about the graphite parts do they go in the oven as well
graphite parts are far more resilient than plastic parts. I think it's okay to put the whole car in the oven except fuel tank and electronics. 80 degree celcius should be hot enough.

( I'm not sure with belts ).
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Old 09-13-2008, 05:13 AM   #3399
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graphite and belts can withstand the 80 degrees easily.
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Old 09-13-2008, 06:28 AM   #3400
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I've never placed a car in the oven to relax tension in the plastics. Although it seems there may be some benefits for ill fitting parts here are some things to consider. Many thermo and resin based plastics have a melting point of around 250 degrees Fahrenheit. 85c is 185 degrees fahrenheit. Make sure if your doing this you have an accurate oven thermometer. Some oven thermometers can have errors of 25 degrees or more. If you approach the melting point of the plastics you could possibly create distortions in the plastics. I would suggest not placing a load of any type on the chassis after removing from the oven. You could run the risk of distorting the suspension hinge point mounts.
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Old 09-13-2008, 06:47 AM   #3401
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This is actually an old trick. It's a throw back to when Serpent used to use poor quality plastics. It improved the cars immensly.

It does indeed remove the manufacturing stresses in the parts and makes the parts stronger and more durable aswell as smoother fitting.

If you have any doubts about parts, like belts etc. Leave them off.
Also. Build the car with NO coatings...... no grease or oils and when completely cooled. Dissmantle the car and apply your coatings and parts you left off.
It's a good idea also to keep the parts in the exact places they came from. The plastic will have "molded" for want of a better term into and onto the positions you had them in when you placed the car into the oven.

Hope this helps.

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Old 09-14-2008, 09:20 AM   #3402
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Originally Posted by British Menace View Post
This is actually an old trick. It's a throw back to when Serpent used to use poor quality plastics. It improved the cars immensly.

It does indeed remove the manufacturing stresses in the parts and makes the parts stronger and more durable aswell as smoother fitting.

If you have any doubts about parts, like belts etc. Leave them off.
Also. Build the car with NO coatings...... no grease or oils and when completely cooled. Dissmantle the car and apply your coatings and parts you left off.
It's a good idea also to keep the parts in the exact places they came from. The plastic will have "molded" for want of a better term into and onto the positions you had them in when you placed the car into the oven.

Hope this helps.

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You always hear about how well the fit of parts are on Xrays I would be reluctant to put my $500 car into an oven
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Old 09-14-2008, 03:04 PM   #3403
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You always hear about how well the fit of parts are on Xrays I would be reluctant to put my $500 car into an oven
Thats true.
It does make you wonder why people would consider doing it doesn't it?

To improve something thats already close to if not the best you can get??!

No matter how good something is. There is always ways and means to improve on what you have .

Putting your car in an oven does sound a little extreme, but there again.

Its a TOY CAR. You can always get another one....lol
And no. I'm not rich.

A pinch of fun...sorry.

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Old 09-14-2008, 06:54 PM   #3404
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Hello Gents,
I don't own a NT1 but have been doing a little research lately on 2 speeds and the available gears......which is how I stumbled onto the NT1. I have a RC Drag car that uses a Mugen centax clutch and a Mugen two speed(MTX3). The two speed hubs or carriers ride on a 6mm shaft. My queston is does anyone know if the X-Ray gears will bolt to the Mugen carriers...they look simular online but its hard to tell from just looking at pictures. The other queston is what size is the X-Ray mid-shaft that the two speed rides on, if its 6mm then I could possibly use the X-Ray carriers if the gears are not adaptable to the Mugen carriers. Last Queston is....on the X-Ray clutch bell, do the Mugen(MTX3) gears interchange?
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Rey
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Old 09-14-2008, 09:11 PM   #3405
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Hello Gents,
I don't own a NT1 but have been doing a little research lately on 2 speeds and the available gears......which is how I stumbled onto the NT1. I have a RC Drag car that uses a Mugen centax clutch and a Mugen two speed(MTX3). The two speed hubs or carriers ride on a 6mm shaft. My queston is does anyone know if the X-Ray gears will bolt to the Mugen carriers...they look simular online but its hard to tell from just looking at pictures. The other queston is what size is the X-Ray mid-shaft that the two speed rides on, if its 6mm then I could possibly use the X-Ray carriers if the gears are not adaptable to the Mugen carriers. Last Queston is....on the X-Ray clutch bell, do the Mugen(MTX3) gears interchange?
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
Rey
The MTX3 and NT1 gears are not interchangable. The screw holes almost line up, but don't.
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