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Old 07-08-2008, 05:34 PM   #3211
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Thanks guys....I will heed all the advice!
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Old 07-08-2008, 09:38 PM   #3212
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are the picco cases flexing?
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Old 07-08-2008, 10:45 PM   #3213
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Originally Posted by mtveten View Post
RayJ,

I have been running the picco all season with no gear problems. I have been setting my gear mesh the way Randy suggests since it makes it easier to get proper alignment.

Mark
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Originally Posted by rx7ttlm View Post
are the picco cases flexing?

Like Mark said he had no gear problems running PICCO all season, so what makes you think that the Picco's crankcase flexes.
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:42 PM   #3214
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are the picco cases flexing?
The megaZX's (picco based) seem to do the same thing on the serpent cars.. there seems to be some flex under load idd!
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Old 07-08-2008, 11:54 PM   #3215
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The megaZX's (picco based) seem to do the same thing on the serpent cars.. there seems to be some flex under load idd!
I ran a picco in my serpent last year and one in my NT1 this year and didnít have any problems with the gears. I would try and do what randy said and set the 2nd gear spur and pinion first.
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:32 AM   #3216
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The megaZX's (picco based) seem to do the same thing on the serpent cars.. there seems to be some flex under load idd!
Maybe the crankshaft's outside portion is not straight anymore. Perhaps your friend once dropped the engine, causing the crankshaft's tip to bent slightly. Need to run the engine with flywheel only, and see the possible vibrations / wobbles coming from the tip.

If that test is passed, I suggest to completely rebuild the rear bulkheads section. Buy new rear bulkheads and use longer screws.
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Old 07-09-2008, 12:54 AM   #3217
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Originally Posted by RayJ View Post
Some people I know are having issues running the Picco JLR and IDM engines in the NT1. The issue is stripping 2nd gear spurs. I'm super careful with gear mesh alignment, snugging down the engine mount screws, and every aspect of two speed maintenance. I stripped like three 2speed spurs in one afternoon of racing. I changed every part on the 2speed assembly and clutch assembly including new motor mounts. The following race weekend....the same thing happened. I know two other racers who are having the same issues with the picco based engines, and it's getting expensive. As soon as I switched back to the Novarossi based engines..... the problem dissappeared. I'm just wondering if anyone else running the picco's is experiencing this problem ??

It seems the engine mount system on the NT1 works ideally with the Nova based engines.
Picco crankcase are a little bit bigger (fat) than nova's. When you put the engine in engine mount, you will notice the engine screws' head will strip off some portion of the crankcase. It will limit your pinion-spur mesh later. Try to grind the engine screw head by 0.2mm so the engine can move freely in the mounting before fastening them.
I had the same problem before, but now it is solved.
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:26 AM   #3218
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Originally Posted by mtveten View Post
RayJ,

I have been running the picco all season with no gear problems. I have been setting my gear mesh the way Randy suggests since it makes it easier to get proper alignment.

Mark
Mark I will have to agree I have been using LRP Spec(picco based) and JL3 and no stripping issues
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Old 07-09-2008, 05:48 AM   #3219
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Like Mark said he had no gear problems running PICCO all season, so what makes you think that the Picco's crankcase flexes.
I was just wondering, I hear way more people saying that they strip gears with picco, coincidence? maybe..
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Old 07-09-2008, 08:55 PM   #3220
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:26 AM   #3221
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If I may share my own experience where at the last US Open I "stripped" about eleven 2nd Gear Spurs in 2 Days . I had many persons offer suggestions. I even called and spoke with Ralph's pit guy and he talked about not going beyond a 4 teeth split etc..... Nothing worked.

Heck, I even asked the Kyosho guys to help, inlcuding Vincent Jackson and Joel Johnson. Everyone was willing, but nothing worked.

Guy would remember this. Man I changed everything on that drive assembly.

Anyway, I say "stripped" with open and closed quotes, because that was not the problem. All along while I am taking the advice of others I was closely examining the gears and noticed to myself that they were not really stripping, but melting . This was a result of counter weights I had in my clutch that was transfering heat from the flywheel through the weights and clutch shoes, then to the bell housing, pinions, and then to 2nd gear spur.

I finally decided to go with my gut feeling that was a heat problem and started to think of what would cause this. I simply replaced the shoes without weights and the problem went away. Ran the car again at another race and with a gear mesh that persons said at the US Open would not work but they were perfect! Gear mesh was never the problem.

My theory is that the Picco motor produces more heat (bi-product of alot of power ) in the crankcase and depending on the clutch configuration you have, this heat is being transfered to the 2nd gear spur and melting it.

It's funny now I think of it, because when I ran the taller gears it lasted longer, while persons were saying "you are going to tall and that's the cause".

Anyway, this is just my own personal humble experience that I hope helps in troubleshoot the problem. Just something else to think about.
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Old 07-10-2008, 05:55 PM   #3222
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Default Solid setups for low-medium traction

I'm looking for a good setup for my NT1 when traction is low to medium. It I can get the car to perform okay but once I pour on the speed the rear gets as loose a striptease shaking her butt in your face.

To fix the problem with poor rear traction:

Rear
Lower arms at lowest position
I've set the camber link shim to 3.5mm
The camber link position to inner lower hole
Added heaps of rear camber (like 4 degrees!)
Toe at 3.5
Set the rear droop to 6
Rear shocks to the lowest position (stock oil, Serpent pink springs)
Stock anti-roll bar

Front shocks at middle hole (stock oil, Serpent yellow springs)
Droop set to 0
1 deg steering blocks (part # 332211 & 332221)
Anti-roll bar at 0 degrees
Max caster (all shims in front of the A arms)

This setting is okay but the cars slides a bit too much and tire wear is high. This is a high wear track but if there were an alternative setting with less wear that would be nice.

I also get too much cone in the rear tires. Ideally a tire should cone less than a millimeter between outside and in but I get a greater degree than that. The fronts tires cone perfectly.

Rob
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:05 PM   #3223
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dennison J View Post
If I may share my own experience where at the last US Open I "stripped" about eleven 2nd Gear Spurs in 2 Days . I had many persons offer suggestions. I even called and spoke with Ralph's pit guy and he talked about not going beyond a 4 teeth split etc..... Nothing worked.
Try to do what Piyo Pyo said, and also a monoblock engine mount. Works like a charm for some of NT1 users in here...
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Old 07-10-2008, 06:13 PM   #3224
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1 View Post
I'm looking for a good setup for my NT1 when traction is low to medium. It I can get the car to perform okay but once I pour on the speed the rear gets as loose a striptease shaking her butt in your face.

To fix the problem with poor rear traction:

Rear
Lower arms at lowest position
I've set the camber link shim to 3.5mm
The camber link position to inner lower hole
Added heaps of rear camber (like 4 degrees!)
Toe at 3.5
Set the rear droop to 6
Rear shocks to the lowest position (stock oil, Serpent pink springs)
Stock anti-roll bar

Front shocks at middle hole (stock oil, Serpent yellow springs)
Droop set to 0
1 deg steering blocks (part # 332211 & 332221)
Anti-roll bar at 0 degrees
Max caster (all shims in front of the A arms)

This setting is okay but the cars slides a bit too much and tire wear is high. This is a high wear track but if there were an alternative setting with less wear that would be nice.

I also get too much cone in the rear tires. Ideally a tire should cone less than a millimeter between outside and in but I get a greater degree than that. The fronts tires cone perfectly.

Rob
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Old 07-10-2008, 07:26 PM   #3225
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Originally Posted by daniz24 View Post
Try to do what Piyo Pyo said, and also a monoblock engine mount. Works like a charm for some of NT1 users in here...

Using that now, but as I mentioned was not the problem.
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