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Old 06-01-2008, 12:01 AM   #3061
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I am going to be upgrading my pipe for my OS TZ5port to the 1040. They have 2 versions, 52 and 60. Does anyone know what is the difference and which is is better for NT1?

Thanks again.
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Old 06-01-2008, 12:31 AM   #3062
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I am going to be upgrading my pipe for my OS TZ5port to the 1040. They have 2 versions, 52 and 60. Does anyone know what is the difference and which is is better for NT1?

Thanks again.
52 is 5.2mm diameter and 60 is 6.0mm diameter. By the way why do you want to buy T1040 when T1050 is replaced T1040. T1040 is now discontinued but you still might be able to get from hobby shop.
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Old 06-01-2008, 12:36 AM   #3063
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Hi jca2000au,

Oh really? I didn't know 1050 is the newer version. I just found the 1040 on the net and it seems most people are recommending it.

Regarding 52 vs 60mm, what is the difference? I have an OS 5port.
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Old 06-01-2008, 12:44 AM   #3064
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Hi jca2000au,

Oh really? I didn't know 1050 is the newer version. I just found the 1040 on the net and it seems most people are recommending it.

Regarding 52 vs 60mm, what is the difference? I have an OS 5port.
Since you are running 5port (outlaw) might as well just get 60mm.
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Old 06-03-2008, 05:16 AM   #3065
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--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

im having massive tyre wear compared to my competers
they lose about 6ml over 30 minutes i loss 6mm over 5mins im the only xray running on a no traction track..
im running 37 all round i tryed 40 shore and lost more tyre. 60k rear diff oil 80k frount
were all running the same lap times.
is there a fix as if i cant stay on the throttle ill be getting lapped?any suggestions on this one many thanks
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Last edited by grub; 06-03-2008 at 06:10 AM.
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Old 06-03-2008, 06:14 AM   #3066
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Post your setup at the XRAY-Website so that we can take a look at it.
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Old 06-03-2008, 06:42 AM   #3067
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Default diff maintenance

How often should diff oils be replaced? i took my rear diff apart yesterday and noticed there was not much diff oil in there. the car has had about 3 litres of fuel put thru it since the last diff rebuild.

my diffs never leaked any oil, its alays clean around the diff.
i always fill the diffs till the oil covers the bevel shafts and let it settle.

thanks
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:02 AM   #3068
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Originally Posted by AddictedToRacin View Post
Post your setup at the XRAY-Website so that we can take a look at it.
here is my set up
i cant seem to get to come up on the xray site
thanks
http://forum.teamxray.com/xform/inde...=652&setup=nt1
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Last edited by grub; 06-03-2008 at 07:12 AM. Reason: coz im dumb
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:13 AM   #3069
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Originally Posted by grub View Post

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

im having massive tyre wear compared to my competers
they lose about 6ml over 30 minutes i loss 6mm over 5mins im the only xray running on a no traction track..
im running 37 all round i tryed 40 shore and lost more tyre. 60k rear diff oil 80k frount
were all running the same lap times.
is there a fix as if i cant stay on the throttle ill be getting lapped?any suggestions on this one many thanks
if you are having such huge tyre wear it's proabbly due to the rear end sliding around too much, you might not notice it because the car feels quick, but it may be that it is infact quick because it is steering into the corners by sliding the rear end around.

try to soften the rear up, or try to go a narrower track width at the front, and increase the initial steering att he front by going to a lower shock position on the front tower, or a softer shock oil or more holes open on the front shocks, basically dial more steering into the front (to increase steering) and soften the rear up (to stop the car from sliding into the corners as you enter).

just an idea. but usually excessive tyre wear means you are slidding around as opposed to gripping, even if you don't notice it, it may be the case, so try the above.
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Old 06-03-2008, 07:30 AM   #3070
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if you are having such huge tyre wear it's proabbly due to the rear end sliding around too much, you might not notice it because the car feels quick, but it may be that it is infact quick because it is steering into the corners by sliding the rear end around.

try to soften the rear up, or try to go a narrower track width at the front, and increase the initial steering att he front by going to a lower shock position on the front tower, or a softer shock oil or more holes open on the front shocks, basically dial more steering into the front (to increase steering) and soften the rear up (to stop the car from sliding into the corners as you enter).

just an idea. but usually excessive tyre wear means you are slidding around as opposed to gripping, even if you don't notice it, it may be the case, so try the above.

gidday tomb
you are correct i have been told my car slids the hole sweeper we have
i have tryed throttle control but the same resault but slower times
my car in awsemone and easy rto drive except the tyre wear .
ill try your sugestions thanks
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Old 06-03-2008, 05:15 PM   #3071
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If its a low grip track iw uld be using 37 shore tires.. have you tried softer tires?

they mighht not wear as much due to them having more grip
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Old 06-03-2008, 11:45 PM   #3072
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Originally Posted by grub View Post
gidday tomb
you are correct i have been told my car slids the hole sweeper we have
i have tryed throttle control but the same resault but slower times
my car in awsemone and easy rto drive except the tyre wear .
ill try your sugestions thanks

a quick fix, and a really good tuning option is the xray hex hubs that allow you to adjust the track width. i purchased the full set and installed the extra wide versions on my car and set it to 198mm front 200mm rear. by going to the smallest setting (thinnest wheel hex) on the front and rear you increase the front steering and increase the rear grip. narrower track width left to right = more grip.

try not to sacrifice front grip in an attempt to stop the sliding, or else your car will be slower. you need to keep the front steering (if not increase it) and gain rear grip.

also put your steering ackerman to C or D, this will increase the exit steering as well. alot of the times, a slow car is characterised by being understeery on exit. you can usually get away with entry understeer, as long as you have a car that has alot fo exit steering. Alot of exit steering means you can jump on the throttle earlier and power out of the corners earlier = more time on throttle.

also the protoform stratus body is shithouse (very understeery on exit). if you are using it, ditch it, and go to one that steers more. From what i heard the east civic tourer bod is good. the Serpent distributors here in Australia are the importers. from all reports it has really good rear end grip and excellent exit steering.
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:15 AM   #3073
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Default steering throw

Hi Guys
Whats the max steering thro you guys are setting up the nt1 with? i think this is part of my slight understeer issue
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Old 06-04-2008, 02:20 AM   #3074
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Hi Guys
Whats the max steering thro you guys are setting up the nt1 with? i think this is part of my slight understeer issue
adjust your max steering until the sides of the plastic hubs hit the pivot balls then back it of 3 clicks or so. this is the max throw you are able to have. it will probably be more than enough (mine is set at 139 on a ko propo mars R)
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Old 06-04-2008, 06:24 AM   #3075
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Originally Posted by TomB View Post
a quick fix, and a really good tuning option is the xray hex hubs that allow you to adjust the track width. i purchased the full set and installed the extra wide versions on my car and set it to 198mm front 200mm rear. by going to the smallest setting (thinnest wheel hex) on the front and rear you increase the front steering and increase the rear grip. narrower track width left to right = more grip.

try not to sacrifice front grip in an attempt to stop the sliding, or else your car will be slower. you need to keep the front steering (if not increase it) and gain rear grip.

also put your steering ackerman to C or D, this will increase the exit steering as well. alot of the times, a slow car is characterised by being understeery on exit. you can usually get away with entry understeer, as long as you have a car that has alot fo exit steering. Alot of exit steering means you can jump on the throttle earlier and power out of the corners earlier = more time on throttle.

also the protoform stratus body is shithouse (very understeery on exit). if you are using it, ditch it, and go to one that steers more. From what i heard the east civic tourer bod is good. the Serpent distributors here in Australia are the importers. from all reports it has really good rear end grip and excellent exit steering.
i will try this to, thanks guys
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