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Old 04-20-2008, 10:18 PM   #2986
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if I may ask, what gearing you were running and which track? I found that if you separate first and second gear to much, then when you get into second gear it bogs alot. (also make sure the final drive ratio comparision is the same not just the spur/ pinion)
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:20 PM   #2987
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Moorebank sydney australia
home of the 2001 1:8 worlds

17/22 pinion and stock spurs
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:21 PM   #2988
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Originally Posted by teamgp View Post
Sounds like either the motor was too lean, or you were running the stock clutch spring with maybe a little too much tension. I would highly recommend the new XRAY Hard clutch spring with the spring nut set to 0.8mm (torque motor) or 1.2mm (rpm motor) down from the flywheel nut end. Flawless and long lasting.
Man, sometimes you say the same thing as me 7 min to late lol.. btw, what would you call the Max XL3? torque motor? lol ---- btw stop chopping my posts on the xray site :P lol ---

btw guy, you left out a gap to start at with your preload setting lol
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:28 PM   #2989
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Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
Moorebank sydney australia
home of the 2001 1:8 worlds

17/22 pinion and stock spurs
well thats not to bad, and if its a 1/8 track your probably good lol. try leaning out the top a hair, and richening up the bottom and tell me what happens.. lately I have seen a lot of people running the bottom to lean, and end up richening the HSN to compensate. More than anything I would ditch the clutch spring. I have been tuning with clutch more than anything else lately (balance and what not is where i like it and it seems to have a big tuning window). the orion spring is a bit much but hits like a 500lb gorilla and its fun.. lol.. try the mugen extra hard, xray hard, MSR hard, or JP hard springs they all seem to give it a lil more snap than the stock spring.
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Old 04-20-2008, 10:37 PM   #2990
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Nel, stop reading this thread. your a serpent guy, stop spying lol and you have PM
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:19 AM   #2991
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr View Post
Hi guys, has anyone had issues with there clutch getting boggy in long finals?
I had my clutch set per the book with the exception of a yellow shoe and it would be fine in qualifiers but the car starts losing bottom end in finals.

I have switched to the kyosho 2d clutch to test in the nt1.
hey there mate..i have this experienced..1st you have to check on your centax spring,should not go below 8.95mm with preload tight like wht teamGP told.very important for you to get this right since your layout is quite big i presume..takecare of the 3 centrifugals,sometimes you might find it damaged at the holes,then you should get new 1 especially when you are having big clutch gap,i advice dont go futher than 0.6mm,just gona cut short the centrifugal&trust bearing lifetime..endplay also..the stronger your engine torque,less endplay better.play around with various spring types and spring nut pre-set.apply drop of threadlock right after you get the spring nut tighten correctly.
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Old 04-26-2008, 04:56 AM   #2992
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Hey all just wondering if any of you are using the locker front diff as i've tried it but can't seem to get any on power steering any ideas as to fixing this problem the set up is as building setup?
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:35 AM   #2993
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Are you referring to front end spool?

What diff oil are you running at the rear?
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Old 04-27-2008, 06:48 AM   #2994
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Hey all just wondering if any of you are using the locker front diff as i've tried it but can't seem to get any on power steering any ideas as to fixing this problem the set up is as building setup?
increase the front lift of the arms. so screw out the droop screws so that the arms read a negative ( - ) number on the droop blocks, this will transfer more weight to the rear on exit and allow the car to steer out of the exit with the rear diff. increase the rear diff oil thickness. if you are racing on a small tight track with low traction, maybe go with a standard diff with 60,000wt oil in the front diff, 80,000wt or standard 60,000wt rear.

also, disconnect your front swaybar, or go to a harder rear swaybar setting.

bodies make a big difference also, the stratus all purpose seems to have a tendency to be secure, but understeers on exit quite a bit. try the new civic east body, or the mazda.
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Old 04-27-2008, 11:15 PM   #2995
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increase the front lift of the arms. so screw out the droop screws so that the arms read a negative ( - ) number on the droop blocks, this will transfer more weight to the rear on exit and allow the car to steer out of the exit with the rear diff. increase the rear diff oil thickness. if you are racing on a small tight track with low traction, maybe go with a standard diff with 60,000wt oil in the front diff, 80,000wt or standard 60,000wt rear.

also, disconnect your front swaybar, or go to a harder rear swaybar setting.

bodies make a big difference also, the stratus all purpose seems to have a tendency to be secure, but understeers on exit quite a bit. try the new civic east body, or the mazda.
I've noticed that too on the Stratus--a real rock solid body but it tends to understeer. I've had some good success with the Kawahara IS250 and definitely have better laps times. But, the change on the understeer isn't dramatic. And, the IS250 tends to drive a little like a 1/8th, with the rear end swishing around a bit. Some racers love it. Some hate it.

If you want to avoid the pain of swapping out the diff oil, the other suggestions mentioned by TomB should effect the car's performance. Try them one by one and see if you can get something you like. On anti-roll bar I went with the X-Ray 2.2mm medium and found that helped. Another plus is that it is significantly cheaper than X-Ray's blade style anti-roll bar.

I too been having the same problem with on-power understeer. I've found though if you want dramatic effect on understeer, play with the roll centre. The NT1 has 4 rear lower arm positions. In the lowest position, you get max grip, in the highest your rear grip seems to drop to near zero. Raise the arms by 0.5mm and note the changes.
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Old 04-28-2008, 09:20 PM   #2996
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Just a quick question is XRAY going to come out with 1/8 on road ???
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Old 04-28-2008, 11:48 PM   #2997
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Just a quick question is XRAY going to come out with 1/8 on road ???
I'm sure xray will enter 1/8 on road market someday.
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Old 04-29-2008, 12:11 AM   #2998
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The guys are working a lot on off road this year. Who knows what will happen in a fiew years lol
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Old 04-29-2008, 04:44 AM   #2999
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Thanks for that tomB and going 4#1 i'll give them a go and hope to get back up to pointy end of the field again.
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Old 04-30-2008, 02:41 PM   #3000
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car parts back in stock !
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