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Old 01-17-2008, 11:50 AM   #2416
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I wonder if rc cars have the same issues as real cars. Real cars I laugh at the guys that put Ti bolts in their diff ring gears. Because Ti + Steel = low temperature welding. anyone not been able to get a ti fastener out of al or steel yet?
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Old 01-17-2008, 02:30 PM   #2417
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Cool thanks. I know I won't get much out of the lightened drivetrain parts. But thats where it matters more. and part of why I am doing this spredsheet to figure out whats worth buying. Cost per gram if you will. Do you run Ti m3 6mm screws in your two speed gears? lol
your laughing but yes i did put the small flush mounted ti screws in my spur gears and i was told that the 2speed shaft and mid shaft should weigh half of stock
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Old 01-17-2008, 10:50 PM   #2418
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I wasn't laughin at you. I too plan on putting those in there, was debating some k factory al screws there.. lol.. I had a bad experience with a ti two speed shaft back when I raced a 710, so I am going to stay away from that one. I might just bore it out till i has a .090 wall thickness lmao. Count me in for a Ti mid shaft tho.
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Last edited by rx7ttlm; 01-17-2008 at 10:51 PM. Reason: added
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Old 01-18-2008, 03:37 AM   #2419
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I read this and wonder....are you racing the car to be LEGAL at 1725, or are you just seeing how light you can get the car. I built the car, box stock and had to add 20grams to make it legal with 10 grams of saftey..... If 'you are club racing and it doesn't matter, by all means, go for it......I would like to see how light you can get the car......
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Old 01-18-2008, 05:15 AM   #2420
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I read this and wonder....are you racing the car to be LEGAL at 1725, or are you just seeing how light you can get the car. I built the car, box stock and had to add 20grams to make it legal with 10 grams of saftey..... If 'you are club racing and it doesn't matter, by all means, go for it......I would like to see how light you can get the car......
not looking to lighten the to see how light i can make it. Ybslow already posted that he actually got the car down to 1595 grams though for your curiosity. What i am doing is choosing were I want those 1725 grams that i have to have.
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Old 01-18-2008, 05:19 AM   #2421
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I wasn't laughin at you. I too plan on putting those in there, was debating some k factory al screws there.. lol.. I had a bad experience with a ti two speed shaft back when I raced a 710, so I am going to stay away from that one. I might just bore it out till i has a .090 wall thickness lmao. Count me in for a Ti mid shaft tho.
I am not using a Ti 2speed shaft i ordered a lightweight steel one i am guessing like the k-factory lightweight steel shafts they make just its not made by them and as for the mid shaft you can get the aluminum one from YBSlow i think it weighs less than 5 grams, it is made from aluminum
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Old 01-18-2008, 08:18 AM   #2422
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I read this and wonder....are you racing the car to be LEGAL at 1725, or are you just seeing how light you can get the car. I built the car, box stock and had to add 20grams to make it legal with 10 grams of saftey..... If 'you are club racing and it doesn't matter, by all means, go for it......I would like to see how light you can get the car......
Just looking to run the car as close to legal weight as possible. Having the car lighter than legal allows me to add weight where I want it. I do plan on attending fuel sedan nats and so forth. So the goal is 1725 with 55mm tires and no fuel in tank, left and right weight within a couple grams. Its also the off season, so bench racing and figuring out new things to do is more fun than sitting here and doing nothing lol..
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Old 01-18-2008, 08:19 AM   #2423
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I don't want to bend mid shafts, so no Al for me lol. which two speed shaft are you looking at? I didn't find one that looked like it would work..
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Old 01-18-2008, 11:01 AM   #2424
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For those that are interested, the XRay switch for the NT1 is actually a two-way switch. You can open it up and solder in a new pigtail and have a way to recharge you battery without disconnecting the battery.
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Old 01-18-2008, 11:08 AM   #2425
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I have the switch, but never thought of opening it.. so it is a double throw, tripple pole?
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Old 01-18-2008, 11:09 AM   #2426
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That maka Very nice!! That was actually my only complaint. Just didn't bother with coming up with anything for it lol...
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Old 01-18-2008, 12:23 PM   #2427
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For those that are interested, the XRay switch for the NT1 is actually a two-way switch. You can open it up and solder in a new pigtail and have a way to recharge you battery without disconnecting the battery.
The switch I took from my NT18 and did this back in June, but I took it off and cannot find it. If you have a pic of it, please post it. Great tip.
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Old 01-18-2008, 01:02 PM   #2428
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Using a male servo pigtail, the Positive charge lead should be soldered to bare switch position, and common ground can be made at yellow shrink wrap. RC America is aware of this and has forwarded this request to Team Xray Slovakia.
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Xray NT1-scan0008-3.jpg  
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Last edited by rx7ttlm; 01-18-2008 at 01:41 PM.
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Old 01-18-2008, 02:33 PM   #2429
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Just looking to run the car as close to legal weight as possible. Having the car lighter than legal allows me to add weight where I want it. I do plan on attending fuel sedan nats and so forth. So the goal is 1725 with 55mm tires and no fuel in tank, left and right weight within a couple grams. Its also the off season, so bench racing and figuring out new things to do is more fun than sitting here and doing nothing lol..
I didn't have as much time on my hands as I did last year, but now, after racing 19 weeks in a row, I have to take a break and "tinker". I don't know if anybody followed what I had done with the MTX4 in 2006/2007 season, but some of my ideas are now being used by a lot of Mugen racers.

Back to this.....I cut a carbon fiber chassis today for the MTX4 and was very successful in making the car lighter, and faster for the club racer. Only making 10 of these, and when Jamie Corrado had brought it up this past weekend, so I just had to do it for the NT1. The chassis is 50.2 grams....that is 51.3grams lighter than stock. I had to add 35 grams to the car just to make it legal before this with the servo's that I had selected to use. With stock screws, and this chassis, that would make the car: close to 1639 grams (with bald tires) before doing anything with ti screws(24grams), Ti front mid shaft(11grams), putting the stock bumper back on(8 grams), lightweight flywheel(3 grams) Lightweight clutch bell(4grams) and lightening the 2speed and one-way for the 2 speed(5 grams)....Hmmm that adds up to: ...55...that puts my car at 1584grams before I start with cross drilling the belt pullies(1.5 grams).....and thier is so many more places to take weight out of the car, however small it is, it is a little bit here and thier.

Is it possible to get the car down to 1500grams?
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Old 01-18-2008, 02:43 PM   #2430
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which flywheel and clutch bell are you using? and how much do they weigh?
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