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Old 09-17-2007, 12:48 PM   #1951
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Originally Posted by Nexus Racing View Post
I'm lucky enough to have a hardware store 3 miles away that has a drawer full of these at all times . Serrated M4 flange nuts are the way to go .
Have you thought about adding them to your store? There seems to be a good market for them.

Mark
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Old 09-17-2007, 01:07 PM   #1952
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Are you suggesting that I may have to shim the bulkhead side brake pad?
No, I'm not. The brake cam post has a machined flat and you may have to extend it a little by filing off the shoulder on top so it clears the brake disc. There is a clearance, but it's pretty tight...
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Old 09-17-2007, 01:19 PM   #1953
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The brake cam post has a machined flat and you may have to extend it a little by filing off the shoulder on top so it clears the brake disc. There is a clearance, but it's pretty tight...
Thanks, I'll take a look at it.
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Old 09-17-2007, 01:42 PM   #1954
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Here is a quick update on tire wear at the nationals track, have any of you guys tried using a harder tire on just one side? Does it drive oddly enough to worry about it? Is there anything I can do setup wise to help this out? The nats surface will have enough traction to require 45 shore rear tires and I've had an extremely hard time finding any harder than that.

This was for a 15 minute main and maybe 3 minutes of warmup.

Twister tires, 40 shore @ 58mm fronts and 42 shore @ 60mm rears.

56.9mm RF
56.1mm LF
55.7mm RR
57.6mm LR
Have you balanced your car yet?

Also, I'm surprised that your RF is wearing less (edit) than your LF given your RR tire wear. Anybody else seen that type of tire wear? Is that symtomatic of anything?
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Last edited by rmdhawaii; 09-17-2007 at 02:15 PM.
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Old 09-17-2007, 01:59 PM   #1955
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Have you balanced your car yet?

Also, I'm surprised that your RF is wearing more than your LF given your RR tire wear. Anybody else seen that type of tire wear? Is that symtomatic of anything?
Only in Houston!
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Old 09-17-2007, 02:16 PM   #1956
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Only in Houston!
I had to edit my post. I meant "less", not "more". My mistake.
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Old 09-17-2007, 02:42 PM   #1957
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Have you balanced your car yet?

Also, I'm surprised that your RF is wearing less (edit) than your LF given your RR tire wear. Anybody else seen that type of tire wear? Is that symtomatic of anything?
Sorry about that, I read my notes again and it actually reads the way you would expect.

56.9mm RF
57.6mm RR
56.1mm LF
55.8mm LR

It's odd for sure, my car should be perfectly balanced. I use the Xray balancing posts and then allow the low side to sit on a scale to measure the exact weight. Right and left are within 1 gram on the rear, and 2 grams on the front.

I then used the Xray tweak station to ensure everything was completely square there as well.

My setup was not quite ideal this weekend. Interestingly there were two left hand corners giving me a hard time where I felt like I needed more turn-in and usually ended up washing the front a bit which would have increased my RF tire wear. Toward the end of the race this eventually caused a slight spin as the tiny LR tire because the droop setting changed by so much.
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Old 09-17-2007, 02:47 PM   #1958
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Oh, and the track is resurfacing again today with a more aggressive sand mixture so I have no idea how we're going to make a 60 minute race at the nationals without some 50 shore tires.

I tried 42f/45r on this day, and just couldn't generate enough grip even though the tire wear was high.. Hopefully the new non-water based sealer will fix this problem.
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:25 PM   #1959
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Originally Posted by MBlackketter View Post
The only nuts that I have found that don't back off are the Kawhara ones.

They have them in Silver and Black.

Mark

Where can I get them?
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:26 PM   #1960
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Originally Posted by GK View Post
I prefer to use wheel nuts that have serrated flange, it cuts into the wheel rim when you tighten it, you'll never loose it again. Serpent has them as well, part #SER 801217.
For uprights and arms, I make scratches in the threaded holes with a small screw driver all the way around (try not to damage the first few threads), I don't use loctite on these parts and have no issues with pivot balls or nuts backing out...
On the uprights and arms, I like the idea, but I'm not sure I completely understand... Do you have a picture or something...
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:43 PM   #1961
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Originally Posted by mtveten View Post
Have you thought about adding them to your store? There seems to be a good market for them.

Mark

Yep and Xray should included them with every car
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:45 PM   #1962
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Originally Posted by brianhatesnitro View Post
Oh, and the track is resurfacing again today with a more aggressive sand mixture so I have no idea how we're going to make a 60 minute race at the nationals without some 50 shore tires.

I tried 42f/45r on this day, and just couldn't generate enough grip even though the tire wear was high.. Hopefully the new non-water based sealer will fix this problem.
When are they going to reseal it? Before the RC PRO race?
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Old 09-17-2007, 03:57 PM   #1963
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When are they going to reseal it? Before the RC PRO race?
I believe most of the work was done this morning and will be completed by this coming weekend so it should fresh for the pro series, bring a lot of tires and hope for a short main :P

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Originally Posted by bvoltz View Post
Yep and Xray should included them with every car
I've actually had the kawahra nuts back off on me twice in a row and ended up having to change the wheel to get them to stick properly again. Apparently you can only tighten them with the ultimate death grip 2-3 times max.
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Old 09-17-2007, 05:00 PM   #1964
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mugen and serpent make wheel nuts that dont come off.
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Old 09-17-2007, 05:37 PM   #1965
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On the uprights and arms, I like the idea, but I'm not sure I completely understand... Do you have a picture or something...
Here you go...
When making these grooves I have a pivot ball inside the upright so I don't damage the area where the pivot ball sits. You can do the same with threaded holes in suspension arms, just be extra careful when screwing the pivot balls and nuts back in.
Attached Thumbnails
Xray NT1-upright.jpg  

Last edited by GK; 09-17-2007 at 08:05 PM.
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