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Old 09-12-2007, 04:01 AM   #1891
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Thanks for the PM kitracer.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4

Last edited by rmdhawaii; 09-12-2007 at 04:16 AM.
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Old 09-12-2007, 05:51 AM   #1892
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I just completed section 8 of the instruction manual and the pinion/spur gear mesh was very tight on the first pass - with no sign of any play within the engine mounting system. The only way I could loosen up the gear mesh and get rid of the grinding noise, was to rotate the engine slightly counter-clockwise (when looking from the top), so that the angle of the engine was not on a parallel axis with the 2-speed shaft. Is that right??
On the engine stands, you need to loosen the screws that go rhrough the engine tabs (have I lost you?....the engine stands are the 2 rods that you attatce directly to the engine.) If you tightend them down before setting the mesh, you will have thie condition you describe.

once you loosen the screws, take off the 1st gear from the 2 speed axle and set the mesh with the 2nd gear. Tighten the screws down and put 1st back on. I've done it this way and have yet to stip out a gear from a "non-wreck" issue.
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Old 09-12-2007, 09:56 AM   #1893
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Yea, per the instructions you're supposed to loosen the lower engine mount screws to set the mesh but I didn't find any play either. I loosened the upper engine screws too to set the mesh. I haven't had any issue with stripping gears all summer. (knocks on wood) I honestly can't tell if it's crooked or not though.
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Old 09-12-2007, 10:02 AM   #1894
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Nice find. I'd try the Atomic set if I didn't already buy the Xray.

Atomic also carries this killer tool.


Be glad u didnt had I caught u at the track with some brand "x" tool.I would have taken ALL your Xray tools and gave you $5 to replace them with Racers Edgeor something....lol...see you at the Classic.
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Old 09-12-2007, 10:55 AM   #1895
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On the engine stands, you need to loosen the screws that go rhrough the engine tabs (have I lost you?....the engine stands are the 2 rods that you attatce directly to the engine.) If you tightend them down before setting the mesh, you will have thie condition you describe.

once you loosen the screws, take off the 1st gear from the 2 speed axle and set the mesh with the 2nd gear. Tighten the screws down and put 1st back on. I've done it this way and have yet to stip out a gear from a "non-wreck" issue.
Thanks James. I will give this a try.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:06 AM   #1896
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Yea, per the instructions you're supposed to loosen the lower engine mount screws to set the mesh but I didn't find any play either.
I'm not quite sure what the person who wrote that was thinking. Those screws will self-center themselves each time. Perhaps when they wrote that, the person was working with a prototype or something.

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I loosened the upper engine screws too to set the mesh. I haven't had any issue with stripping gears all summer. (knocks on wood) I honestly can't tell if it's crooked or not though.
The ability to adjust the engine may be dependent on the size and placement of the engine tab holes. I'll have to pull the engine out and look at it more closely.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4

Last edited by rmdhawaii; 09-12-2007 at 11:26 AM.
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Old 09-12-2007, 11:28 AM   #1897
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I'm not quite sure what the person who wrote that was thinking. Those screws will self-center themselves each time. Perhaps when they wrote that, the person was working with a prototype or something.


The ability to adjust the engine may be dependent on the size and placement of the engine tab holes. I'll have to pull the engine out and look at it more closely.
It depends entirely on the size of the holes in the tabs, I've been lucky with the IDM engines and I've also seen Novarossi installed with proper gear meshes. the bottom mounts have a tiny bit of play as well, you may have to loosen all 4 screws to get it right.
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Old 09-12-2007, 01:20 PM   #1898
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If anyone is interested in a built, but never run NT1 roller...

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=180887

Last edited by Apex; 09-17-2007 at 12:03 PM.
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Old 09-12-2007, 02:04 PM   #1899
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If anyone is interested in a built, but never run NT1 roller...

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=180887
Congrats on becoming a Dad! Too bad about having to give up the car - but at least you've got your priorities straight.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
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Old 09-13-2007, 04:23 PM   #1900
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These XRAY shocks are really something else. Unlike Kyosho/Mugen shocks, these seem overly complex. Here are some questions:
  • When I fully extend the shocks, it seems like it's bumping into something in on the bottom of the shock body. What is that?
  • Is there anyone that is not doing the rebound procedure?
  • Is there anyone that didn't initially do the rebound and then decided to do the rebound? Could you tell the difference?
  • For those that have run Kyosho/Mugen, do you really see any difference in the performance of the shocks?

Thanks guys! I always appreciate and enjoy reading your feedback.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
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Old 09-13-2007, 04:53 PM   #1901
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
These XRAY shocks are really something else. Unlike Kyosho/Mugen shocks, these seem overly complex. Here are some questions:
  • When I fully extend the shocks, it seems like it's bumping into something in on the bottom of the shock body. What is that?
  • Is there anyone that is not doing the rebound procedure?
  • Is there anyone that didn't initially do the rebound and then decided to do the rebound? Could you tell the difference?
  • For those that have run Kyosho/Mugen, do you really see any difference in the performance of the shocks?

Thanks guys! I always appreciate and enjoy reading your feedback.
Not overly complex they just included a bot more info regarding shoct setup then the other 2.

1. Assuming you got your pistons in right what you are feeling is the key in the bottom of the body for opening/closing the adjustable pistons. Use the adjustable pistons, they make minor dampening changes quick and easy to try.

2/3. The rebound adjustment / bottom bleeding is easy to do and does have a great effect on how your suspension reacts. In general less rebound is better for higher grip conditions with more rebound being better in lower bite conditions. Even if you use other manufactures shocks changes in the rebound will change the feel and reaction of the car, their process may be more involved but the results will be the same.

4. I haven't used Kyosho or Mugen shocks but I have run other conventional shocks such as those from TM, Tamiya and other and I can say without hesitation that I like the X-ray shocks the best. All other others shocks I have tried either were harder to build consistently, lacked tune ability, leaked, had too much friction (dbl o-ring) or simply didn't hold up well.

I know the composite bodies and pistons look cheesy but if you give them a try you will find them to work better than anything else on the market.

Mark
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Old 09-13-2007, 05:39 PM   #1902
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I know the composite bodies and pistons look cheesy...
Compared to how solid the rest of the car feels, they feel like some cheap toy from the 99 cents store.

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... but if you give them a try you will find them to work better than anything else on the market.

Mark
Thanks Mark.

Against my better judgement (whatever that's worth), I did use the adjustable shock parts when I assembled the shocks last night. The two halves didn't seem to mate together well (for whatever reason) and while the instructions do show the orientation of the parts, they are not as clear as they should be. The easy way out, would have been to use the non-adjustable parts.

Considering how many possible setup permutations the shocks have (holes, oil, springs and rebound), it's difficult to imagine anyone having enough time to find the "perfect" setup when showing up at a new track for an event. The testing process seems endless...

The Kyosho/Mugen shocks don't leak and with fewer parameters, it's more of a better/worse assesement and compromise than the granular fine tuning ad infinium like the XRAY's.
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Old 09-13-2007, 06:22 PM   #1903
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Did you put shock oil on the two shock piston halfs before you put them together?
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Old 09-13-2007, 07:12 PM   #1904
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii View Post
Against my better judgement (whatever that's worth), I did use the adjustable shock parts when I assembled the shocks last night.
Adjustable pistons are worth every penny, I don't think I know anyone with Xray (T2 or NT1) not using them. Composite bodies may look cheap, but if you have nothing better to do (and have a spare one), try to cut it in half - you'll see just how smooth the ID of the body is, hence reducing friction. They're also durable, I only broke one shock body on my electric car when I was rear ended (car was ) really hard. The fact that they're so light and smooth makes me hesitant to buy the new alu bodies.
Be patient when you bleed them, just make sure each pair has a same rebound...
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Old 09-13-2007, 07:13 PM   #1905
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Did you put shock oil on the two shock piston halfs before you put them together?
Last night I was so tired, I could barely keep my eyes open - so looking back at the instructions now, I see that I missed that step. I put oil on the shaft, shock body and the o-rings, but not between the two halves.

Good catch Mark.
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Kyosho V-ONE RRR WC (x2) \ XRAY T2'007 \ Also owned: XRAY NT1 & Mugen MTX-4
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