OS TZ .12 Stuck at TDC
11-25-2006, 08:39 PM
#1
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
OS TZ .12 Stuck at TDC
Hey,
I managed to start my kyosho once, for about 5 seconds before cuttting the engine so I could break it in. I had to recharge the start box batteries, but then when I tried to restart it it kept getting stuck at TDC, so I would rotate it back to somewhere between TDC and BDC to see if the starterbox could get it past. Without any luck, I tried to heat the engine, to about 80+ degrees Celcius, and wrapped the engine in foil to retain the heat. Still no luck, the starterbox could not get it past TDC. I know there is fuel in the cylinder after I prime it because when I have to rotate the clutch nitro fuel comes pouring over my shorts from the stinger
. The glow plug and ignitor are both working and fully charged, as the same with the starterbox batteries. Could someone please help me fix this TDC problem, as I would like to start the next racing season in my V One RRR, and not in my V One S.... 
Thanks very much,
Buzz
I managed to start my kyosho once, for about 5 seconds before cuttting the engine so I could break it in. I had to recharge the start box batteries, but then when I tried to restart it it kept getting stuck at TDC, so I would rotate it back to somewhere between TDC and BDC to see if the starterbox could get it past. Without any luck, I tried to heat the engine, to about 80+ degrees Celcius, and wrapped the engine in foil to retain the heat. Still no luck, the starterbox could not get it past TDC. I know there is fuel in the cylinder after I prime it because when I have to rotate the clutch nitro fuel comes pouring over my shorts from the stinger
. The glow plug and ignitor are both working and fully charged, as the same with the starterbox batteries. Could someone please help me fix this TDC problem, as I would like to start the next racing season in my V One RRR, and not in my V One S.... Thanks very much,
Buzz
11-25-2006, 08:53 PM
#2
-What engine do you have? some ABC engines are delivered with a very tight piston/sleeve interference fit. Try locating an actual "heat gun" and get the barrel as warm as possible. Does it stay stuck with the glow plug out? Is the engine flooded?, ie hydro-locked?
11-25-2006, 08:53 PM
#3
These engines are very tight when they are new. I saw some guys trying to start the same engine today with no luck until I got my starter box that has the big 12volt motor and 12volt gel cell in it. It started right up because it turns the engine over alot quicker.
11-25-2006, 09:20 PM
#4
If its still stuck at TDC use a pair of needle nose pliers on the flywheel from under the car and wind it off TDC first, then heat it again to about 90 Celcius as I have found with my mates 12TZ and his Speed Tuned TZ that this was required as 80 was just to little by the time you got the plug igniter on and started it it was already down to 70 which isn't enough to get it cranking.
Dont be afraid as this will happen a few times and keep your cool when it does happen (not like my make ready to smash it
).
Run it in properly and have fun as these motors kick ass for the price.
Brett
Dont be afraid as this will happen a few times and keep your cool when it does happen (not like my make ready to smash it
).Run it in properly and have fun as these motors kick ass for the price.
Brett
11-25-2006, 09:38 PM
#5
You could also try loosening the glow plug a little bit. Just don't forget to tighten it once you get it started.
11-25-2006, 10:03 PM
#6
This is normal for many engines it seems. Had the same issue with my OS Vspec. More pinch is better. It just sucks to get it broken in.
Take the glow plug off and put the car back on the starter box. Drop a few drops of afterrun oil down on the piston. Position a hair dryer or heat gun at the engine and let it run through this entire process. Now with the heat gun still positioned to run over the engine, start cranking the engine over on the starterbox for about 10 - 20 seconds. Quickly put the glow plug back. Crank the engine again on the box. Remember to keep the heat gun blowing. The engine should crank over now and start. Everytime it gets stuck at TDC use a flat head screwdriver to carefully move the flywheel and free the piston.
This process works great for me with high performance engines
Take the glow plug off and put the car back on the starter box. Drop a few drops of afterrun oil down on the piston. Position a hair dryer or heat gun at the engine and let it run through this entire process. Now with the heat gun still positioned to run over the engine, start cranking the engine over on the starterbox for about 10 - 20 seconds. Quickly put the glow plug back. Crank the engine again on the box. Remember to keep the heat gun blowing. The engine should crank over now and start. Everytime it gets stuck at TDC use a flat head screwdriver to carefully move the flywheel and free the piston.
This process works great for me with high performance engines
11-26-2006, 12:43 AM
#7
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
I think the engine may be hydro locked, haven't thought of that. How much are heat guns? ANd is there any way to protect plastic around the engine from melting?
Thanks
Thanks
11-26-2006, 01:04 AM
#8
I heat my TZ's upto around 120*C before i even bother to try and start them. It gives it cool down time in the time it takes me to turn on my radio and car etc.
Don't worry about plastic part melting ive never melted anything just aim down on the gloplug
Don't worry about plastic part melting ive never melted anything just aim down on the gloplug
11-26-2006, 07:35 AM
#9
Originally Posted by theBUZZ
How much are heat guns?
11-26-2006, 07:36 AM
#10
11-26-2006, 07:41 AM
#11
All motors have a tight TDC at first, But I must say this little TZ by OS is VERY tight! I never used a heat gun, but I'm not saying you shouldn't. I did take out the glow plug and put about 4-5 drops of afterrun oil in the cylinder, placed a rag over the top of the engine and just turned it over about three times in 30 second intervals. This helped to loosen it up some.
Then to try and start it, make sure your batteries are fully charged in your starterbox, and turn the crank by the flywheel all the way to the right (Clockwise) so that when the flywheel hits the rubber wheel on the starter box the engine has a little bit of momentum to make it past TDC. This is a MUST!! Make sure that your starter box is going full speed before you let it hit the flywheel. I also found that if you press the flywheel too hard against the rubber wheel it will slow it down more. So don't push your car down too hard. Yes it will get stuck a few times. Use a screwdriver to turn the flywheel from the bottom of the car prying against the chassis starter box hole. Pry using leverage, not force. Just be patient and persistant. Don't forget to turn the flywheel CW before each attempt. Good Luck!
Then to try and start it, make sure your batteries are fully charged in your starterbox, and turn the crank by the flywheel all the way to the right (Clockwise) so that when the flywheel hits the rubber wheel on the starter box the engine has a little bit of momentum to make it past TDC. This is a MUST!! Make sure that your starter box is going full speed before you let it hit the flywheel. I also found that if you press the flywheel too hard against the rubber wheel it will slow it down more. So don't push your car down too hard. Yes it will get stuck a few times. Use a screwdriver to turn the flywheel from the bottom of the car prying against the chassis starter box hole. Pry using leverage, not force. Just be patient and persistant. Don't forget to turn the flywheel CW before each attempt. Good Luck!
11-26-2006, 11:42 AM
#13
These motors are very tight when new. I have an OS 12TZ and after 10 tanks through it it still gets tuck at TDC sometimes when i try to start it. I just loosen the glow plug a little then start it, after started I tighten the glow plug back. It will take a while for the engine to totally break in. This ening is awesome just give it some time to break in and you wont be disappointed.
11-26-2006, 04:36 PM
#14
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
"Don't forget to turn the flywheel CW before each attempt. Good Luck!" i think I'm turning the flywheel anti clockwise when it gets stuck, so I dont have to use force to get it past TDC. Is this ok?
11-26-2006, 08:18 PM
#15
Tech Apprentice
Thread Starter
Ok, I tried restarting just before. I reconfigured the starterbox to run earlier, which worked extremely well, the flywheel was moving very fast and cranked over about 4 times (hard to count). This was after heating the engine with new heat gun 
to about 120 degrees. But, it got stuck at TDC after goign past it 4 times. This is the problem I think: the flywheel is rotating but the piston isnt? Something very wrong here. I have to take the engine out, and rotate the gears which turn the piston, because the flywheel doesn't. Is their a problem with the stock instructions on the flywheel for the Kyosho V One RRR?
Thanks very much for your help guys, it almost got it
to about 120 degrees. But, it got stuck at TDC after goign past it 4 times. This is the problem I think: the flywheel is rotating but the piston isnt? Something very wrong here. I have to take the engine out, and rotate the gears which turn the piston, because the flywheel doesn't. Is their a problem with the stock instructions on the flywheel for the Kyosho V One RRR?Thanks very much for your help guys, it almost got it