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Old 11-27-2006, 10:24 AM   #31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hav_lova
I've never had a problem with putting a cable tie in my exhaust port, i've done it so many times i strip my engines right down after each race meet
I don't want you to think that I am picking on you. Obviously I never thought of using the LARGE end. I run mostly modified engines and the edges of everything are usually sharp due to the porting and all in both the intake and exhaust. I just invisioned myself chopping something up and it possibly scratching up something or getting into the motor slowing me down by having to tear the engine apart. So don't think I'm picking on you. I was just showing how I do it is all. Later!
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Old 11-27-2006, 04:28 PM   #32
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Um, sorry for this guys, but how do I tighten the flywheel on that cone? Do i tighten the hex at the end, or just push the flywheel on the cone as hard as I can?

EDIT: Also I'm using a .3 mm washer between the cone and engine bearing...whihc makes the gap between the flywheel around 1mm, should I remove the washer?
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:28 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Serpentd
I don't want you to think that I am picking on you. Obviously I never thought of using the LARGE end. I run mostly modified engines and the edges of everything are usually sharp due to the porting and all in both the intake and exhaust. I just invisioned myself chopping something up and it possibly scratching up something or getting into the motor slowing me down by having to tear the engine apart. So don't think I'm picking on you. I was just showing how I do it is all. Later!
Nah mate, your fine i wasn't taking offence or anything, i also run modified motors so i know that feeling of not really wanting to run to risk of having to pull the engine apart un necessarily.

theBUZZ, that gap is good keep it there. you want to put a dab of threadlock on that nut and tighten it down tight. I hold the flywheel in vice grips and tighten the nut. most wheel/glo plug wrenches will have a size that will fit on that nut
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Old 11-28-2006, 02:44 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theBUZZ
But more to the point there is this little collet? that is meant to go in the flywheel to lock the flywheel on the rod. Is this supposed to submerge fully into the flywheel, as it is a very, very tight fit.
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From memory it doesn't have to go ALL the way in the only requirement is that the nut holding the flywheel down is very tight
1 remark here, the collet should NOT submerge completely into the flywheel, it should stick out just a small amount (less then 0.5mm) to be shure when you tighten the nut, the collet is forced by the flywheel to grap a good hold on the crank......

Just think logically, and you will see why.......
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:12 AM   #35
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yes! you tighten the flywheel onto the crank by tightening the nut but don't use any thread lock.
it would help to get a tool to hold the flywheel while you tigten the nut.this will stop the flywheel being scratched by the vicegrips. i use a ratchet to tighten the nut.
http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxr1105.html
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Old 11-28-2006, 03:55 PM   #36
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I've had my TZ for a few months and finally after more than a gallon of fuel it does not stick when I start it. I am replacing the con rod and the bearings are going bad already. I know a few others locally that have had issues with the bearings. Other that this the motor is great low cost alternative to the $$$ motors.

I ran the motor at idle for 4 tanks before tunning it lean on the track. kept the heat close to 180 but did not worry about 220 at peak before tunning

there are lots of different ways, the best is to follow manufactures directions. $0.02
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Old 11-28-2006, 09:23 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
yes! you tighten the flywheel onto the crank by tightening the nut but don't use any thread lock.
it would help to get a tool to hold the flywheel while you tigten the nut.this will stop the flywheel being scratched by the vicegrips. i use a ratchet to tighten the nut.
http://www.duratrax.com/caraccys/dtxr1105.html
So you don't scratch the flywheel, no offence but its not a show pony it's a flywheel. Those tools can ruin good flywheels by bending the pins.
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Old 11-29-2006, 01:27 AM   #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hav_lova
So you don't scratch the flywheel, no offence but its not a show pony it's a flywheel. Those tools can ruin good flywheels by bending the pins.
Yep, I use these:
http://nl.wikipedia.org/wiki/Afbeeld...ple_pliers.jpg
can be found in any hardware store.......
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Old 11-29-2006, 01:30 AM   #39
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So you don't scratch the flywheel, no offence but its not a show pony it's a flywheel. Those tools can ruin good flywheels by bending the pins.
yes but you want the flywheel to spin as true as possible. they won't bend the pins because the pins are only short and the tool holds all 3 pins so the torque load is equally shared between them.
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Old 11-29-2006, 02:40 AM   #40
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ae_ntc3
yes but you want the flywheel to spin as true as possible. they won't bend the pins because the pins are only short and the tool holds all 3 pins so the torque load is equally shared between them.
Dude, i've seen them bend pins don't tell me that garbage. If your worried about damaging the flywheel wrap it in a rag... a flywheel pin tool
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Old 11-29-2006, 02:44 AM   #41
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Quote:
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Dude, i've seen them bend pins don't tell me that garbage. If your worried about damaging the flywheel wrap it in a rag... a flywheel pin tool
must have been a mugen!
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Old 11-29-2006, 04:34 AM   #42
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must have been a mugen!
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Old 12-01-2006, 05:13 PM   #43
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Just another question...

The engine is now turning over when the glowplug is loose. Fuel sprays out. But when I tighten the glowplug to start it, it just won't turn over. Also, alot of fuel is coming out the glowplug and i checked my high end needle and it was set at 4 3/4 turns. So i tightened it to 4 turns. It seems the engine hydrolocks when the glowplug is tightened.
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Old 12-01-2006, 05:46 PM   #44
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Does the battery for the starter box have a good charge? I think that it just isn't turning over fast enough.
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Old 12-01-2006, 06:47 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theBUZZ
Just another question...

The engine is now turning over when the glowplug is loose. Fuel sprays out. But when I tighten the glowplug to start it, it just won't turn over. Also, alot of fuel is coming out the glowplug and i checked my high end needle and it was set at 4 3/4 turns. So i tightened it to 4 turns. It seems the engine hydrolocks when the glowplug is tightened.
4 (360 degree) turns is way too rich, the instructions say approx 2 (360 degree)turns. I used the Josh Cyrul method of break in so that means AFTER starting it you wind out the high end, but even then I think mine only went to 3 1/2 turns before it wouldn't run.

I recommend you go back to the break in settings from the manual and go from there.

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