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Old 11-26-2006, 09:25 PM   #16
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Ok, I tried restarting just before. I reconfigured the starterbox to run earlier, which worked extremely well, the flywheel was moving very fast and cranked over about 4 times (hard to count). This was after heating the engine with new heat gun to about 120 degrees. But, it got stuck at TDC after goign past it 4 times. This is the problem I think: the flywheel is rotating but the piston isnt? Something very wrong here. I have to take the engine out, and rotate the gears which turn the piston, because the flywheel doesn't. Is their a problem with the stock instructions on the flywheel for the Kyosho V One RRR?

Thanks very much for your help guys, it almost got it
Hi There,

I just broke in my OS TZ on a RRR this wekeend. I found it was quite easy although yes, the flywheel got stuck dozens of times during the process. And as everyone else has said, you just need to turn it over with a screwdriver and then rotate it back so it's got the most amount of play ready for another go...its alot of effort but you'll get there...

In regards to heating it up, I did a little bit but nothing major.

But, if your flywheel is slipping then thats a different issue altogether, you need to check your flywheel install and check whether or not you are using a washer on the engine before putting on the flywheel collet, this may or may not help/hinder the tightening of the flywheel.

Also what breaking in method are you using, the OS one or your own?

I'm using the much talked about Josh Cyrul method and once I got into the swing of it this worked a treat, I got 11 tanks through my car in 2 days....

Good luck with it

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Old 11-26-2006, 11:02 PM   #17
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I need serious help, the flywheel is the problem certainly, but because it is screwed up I can't physically undo the nut to reassemble the flywheel.
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Old 11-26-2006, 11:33 PM   #18
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If someone out there knows, on page 42, peice 141, On the Kyosho V One RRR manual, it Peice 141 meant to go all the way in? It just doesnt seem to work for me
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Old 11-26-2006, 11:39 PM   #19
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Having a look at dad's V1RRR WCE manual i assume you mean the little collet.
I'm assuming that the engine is turning over and you cant undo the nut?
You have a couple options

Get a really tough cable tie and put it in the exhaust port so the piston cant move and you can undo the nut

Take of carby and put the cable tie in the hole in the crank

Buy a piston locking tool (im not sure where or how much though)

If the flywheel is off spread the little collet with a screwdriver to get it all the way on the crank, it shouldn't need to go all the way into the flywheel as long as its tight.
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Old 11-26-2006, 11:56 PM   #20
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Wow, I know this can be a pain in the ass, your lock tite is holding the nut. If you can avoid putting anything in the engine to lock it up though, I would. A few things to try. Get a larger flat screw driver like a #2 or #1 and sort of wedge it between the back of the flywheel and the front of the motor. Keep in mind to not over wedge it, just go by feel and then try and undo the nut.

A lot of the times if you stick something in the exhaust it will cut it in half because of the sharp edges. A piston lock tool is better...but don't over CRANK on the nut as you can bend or distort the rod, rod bearing. However, if you apply a SLOW steady pressure on the crank nut you will probably be ok. Slow and easy.

The thing I use is a crank/rod stopping tool made out of strong plastic that is inserted through the back plate. This works best and suggest buying one. However if your impatient, try the other things first being careful to not over torque that nut that can create internal damage. Just be careful! I will search online to try and send you a photo of what I mean. Or I might take a photo of mine and post it. Good luck. Follow what hav_lova said avter you get it off.
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:01 AM   #21
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Go here...this is what I was talking about...http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2....oducts_id=9583
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Old 11-27-2006, 12:32 AM   #22
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Yea, i stop the cable tie being broken by using the head which is the strongest part i've only ever had one break... Just take your time
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Old 11-27-2006, 02:40 AM   #23
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I jsut got it out, had to lock the gears with a hand, which is now bleeding. But more to the point there is this little collet? that is meant to go in the flywheel to lock the flywheel on the rod. Is this supposed to submerge fully into the flywheel, as it is a very, very tight fit.

it is peice 141 on page 42

It is refferred to as the tappered cone on Ace hobbies. http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com/2....oducts_id=2494.
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Old 11-27-2006, 02:41 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by theBUZZ
I jsut got it out, had to lock the gears with a hand, which is now bleeding. But more to the point there is this little collet? that is meant to go in the flywheel to lock the flywheel on the rod. Is this supposed to submerge fully into the flywheel, as it is a very, very tight fit.

it is peice 141 on page 42
From memory it doesn't have to go ALL the way in the only requirement is that the nut holding the flywheel down is very tight
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:28 AM   #25
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I had this problem with my Mega ZX12 on the G4S. I do not recommend putting anything up the exhaust port as i learnt the hard way

Solution i found was to remove the sleeve and piston (conrod still attached) and sold onto the crank pin with your fingers and try and stop the crank from turing over... Not easy to do i know, but i haven't found a piston locking tool for a turbo button as yet, nor do i believe it is wise to apply that much pressure to the conrod etc.

My 2 cents worth

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Old 11-27-2006, 03:28 AM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hav_lova
From memory it doesn't have to go ALL the way in the only requirement is that the nut holding the flywheel down is very tight
Dude, you are right. The "cone" will never fit 100% into the flywheel. Your only concern is to make sure the cone is all the way on the crank and against the engine bearing. Then slide your flywheel on and crank that nut down with loc tite. Use enough loc tite, just don't get carried away. You can crank it down good with the suggestions used to remove the nut. It needs to be tight. This is the reason for the conical shape of the "cone". Cones and flywheels come in different sizes, this is why you will not see the cone go totally into the flywheel. It's not necessary. However a tigh nut is VERY necessary. They also make "flywheel" holders to help on this. http://www.serpent-usa.com/es12801024/index.htm

This is a cool tool because it holds the flywheel to tighten and loosen, plus you can check your end play. With these type of holders though, you don't want to over crank and bend your flywheel pins. Very easy to use. Good luck!
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Old 11-27-2006, 03:43 AM   #27
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I've never had a problem with putting a cable tie in my exhaust port, i've done it so many times i strip my engines right down after each race meet
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Old 11-27-2006, 04:37 AM   #28
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take out the glow plug and put about 4-5 drops of afterrun oil in the cylinder, placed a rag over the top of the engine and just turned it over about three times in 30 second intervals. This helped to loosen it up some.
This is a great way of cutting the engine's life expectancy by more than half. If your turning it over whilst it's cold, your wearing the piston and the liner "or breaking them in" at that temperature. When you start the engine and run it, the liner taper expands, you lose compression and you have "blow by"

I always use a hair dryer or a heat gun to get the liner to expand, and then crank it over on the box. This puts much less stress and strain on the conrod and bearings.
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:06 AM   #29
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Try this:

http://www.nitrokb.com/vonerrr/faq.html#engine
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Old 11-27-2006, 10:10 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rody
This is a great way of cutting the engine's life expectancy by more than half. If your turning it over whilst it's cold, your wearing the piston and the liner "or breaking them in" at that temperature. When you start the engine and run it, the liner taper expands, you lose compression and you have "blow by"

I always use a hair dryer or a heat gun to get the liner to expand, and then crank it over on the box. This puts much less stress and strain on the conrod and bearings.
Really? I guess that makes sence. I have only tried that once. However I don't think I spun the motor over that long. Maybe 10-15 sec. But either way, I do see your point. Thank you very much for the insight. I will be sure to NOT do that again. I just haven't raced for a few years and when I got this TZ, wow...SUPER tight! I use to run all the modifiied Callari, Rody etc, never had it feel that tight. Then again maybe I lost a few paitence. Thanks again for setting me straight.
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