rageworks

iTrader: (47)

DM-1 PRO (1/7), front brace = Jammin (HongNor) X1 CRT (truggy)
DM-1 Spec (1/8), front brace = Jammin (HongNor) X1 CR (buggy)
I don't think anyone but Nitrohouse has them in stock anymore.
I bought out most of the Jammin parts that two of the bigger web
stores liquidated awhile back. I paid pennys on the dollar for all of
their Jammin parts stock.

Livewire121

I thought I had already posted this. And I know most of you guys are in the states or overseas. But if you happen to be in the Toronto area this week, we're having our first fall endurance championship this friday!! Sorry about the really short notice, and if you can't make it this year...there's always next year!

J Lee

Hello

I been Racing My DM-1 RTR SPEC on competition racing at Floyd Bennett Field, Brooklyn NY.

love the car so far, I made few modification myself to make my car run faster and stronger.

I put a new OFNA McLaren Body lately and loving it too. lets share some thoughts from this season's race.

whipnet

Does that McLaren lid fit on the Spec well?

Always looking for new 1:1 replicas for mine.

*

WildBillMassey

iTrader: (5)

Fits GT1, DM-1Spec, and Ultra GTP

http://www.igthobbies.com/OFNA-OFN31...en_p_1645.html

I have more coming in today.

whipnet

Thanks Bill!

*

Herrsavage

I still don't know what engine to run in this thing... Have several buggy 21's, but somehow I suspect it needs a bigger engine..

J Lee

I been running a Argus 21 engine, which is based on Alpha Plus 21 offroad. tuned at 260-280 deg plenty of horse power. you may wanted to try a Aluminium clutch set for more punch.

Herrsavage

Just back from my outing..

Got it going, ran some laps, then wwwhhhaaaaaannnnggghhhhh!!!!!! no movement.. Spur-gear toast.. Typical..

Looked things over, and discovered that the CB was VERY close to the SG.. Have an Associated clutch on the Go engine.. I mean, the SG overlaps the CB with like less than a mm between them..

So, I put in my spare 2-speed and decided to try the REX with 9901. Put it in - after, btw, getting 3x the small bearings on the front without having to do anything special(with Mach 427 with Fioroni and Go with Asso clutch this was not possible..), and was having some fun once I got the tune down. Performance was a tiny bit better than the Go. This engine was modded by the previous owner for more top end, and it does go pretty - but not mentally - well.. Anyway, way the hell down the other end of the straight it stopped. Could still see smoke when I gave gas, so I thought, great, another 2-speed toasted.. Turns out the SG's were OK, but the hex nut on the outside of the low-speed gear had come loose... OK................ So, took the 2-speed back out, locked that thing down with some threadlock, built the 2-speed back in, let the threadlock sit a while while I thrashed my SC8 - with Argus A52 - then tested the DM-1 again.. Everything went great, except there doesn't seem to be a shift. Does the whole deal in 2nd.. Which is better than first... Before installing the 2-speed I did about one full turn OUT to get a later shift.. Maybe screwed up and need to go back half a turn or so...

The car IS fun when it's running right. Tough too - smacked a concrete corner wall backwords after skidding out after a high-speed pass.. No probs...

Anyway, think I just need to sort out the shift-point, and I'll be happy with this engine for now... At some point though I want to go mental with the power and see 60mph... As it was I was far faster than everybody else in the park today. Embarassingly so almost..

Herrsavage

Have a question about adjusting the 2-speed. I'm pretty sure the 2-speed is the same type as on my LST2's - and with them I have to screw OUT - i.e. counter-clockwise, for a LATER shift.

Last weekend I did one turn out after some testing, hoping to get a later shift, but it seemed to shift earlier..

The wording in the manual is kind of weird - faster shift time, slower, etc..

Anyway, do I screw clockwise or counterclockwise to get a later shift?

( ..)

For anybody that has a rough eyeball idea, should the screws be about flush normally?

rageworks

iTrader: (47)

Here you go. Please add it to your favorites list, so you can
use it for quick reference.
http://www.ofna.com/pdf/34320-DM1-PRO.pdf

Herrsavage

Brainfart. Please delete..

Herrsavage

Thanks. I saved it last time you posted it, and checked it in addition to the paper one from my kit before posting here, but it uses the same weird vocabulary..

EDIT - Hold on.. I think I realize my mistake. On my LST2, when I put (smaller) truggy tires on, it wouldn't shift, so I would have to unscrew the screws(counterclocwise) almost to the point that the heads poked out and nearly touched the inner surface of the hub... (Never try to run truggy tires on an LST2.. ) But I guess I had it backwards. I want a later shift with the DM-1, so screwing IN makes more sense..

OK. My mistake. Brainfart.. Got it now. Thanks though..

rageworks

iTrader: (47)

You increase the tension of the spring on the adjustment screw
when you tighten the screw (turn it clockwise). That means that
it takes more centrifical force to engage the clutch shoe against
the clutchbell (second gear).

Herrsavage

Got the shift-point sorted, so went out and jumped the DM-1 a bit..

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j_K6zjx6iGY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=COJS8nWr9IA