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Old 10-16-2006, 08:22 PM   #16
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Hi Tony,

Are your 3 mm x 3 mm set screws also grade 12.9?

Thanks for the info.
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Old 10-16-2006, 10:23 PM   #17
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I just put together a 720 using a set of Tony's Screws. His hardware is AWESOME! Us onroad guys don't plan on those 50 foot jumps like off road...although I've witnessed a few but we do like to tear our cars apart about every weekend. Life without this killer hardware and hardened hexs would just plain suck. Check out Tony's Screws, very inexpensive and he does all the work for you on the sizes you need if you do the entire vehicle. Plus each bag has it's own size printed right on there. Very fast shipping as well. Sorry for the Ebay style feedback, but he and the screws kick ass! Thanks Tony!
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Old 10-16-2006, 11:13 PM   #18
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I too used to be an off-roader myself and I agree with Tony, you need high quality screws that have high tensile strength and don't strip. Right now the only affordable and practical material is tensile steel. Oddly, stainless steel just isn't as good.

That doesn't mean you can't use Titanium though. For the bottom of my MTX-4 I use tensile steel Hexcrews (http://www.hexcrews.com) but for plastic-plastic or carbon-plastic in the 3x8 to 3x10 range on the top of the car, servo holders, covers, etc. I use titanium. It's light which is what I want to keep weight down and keep the car agile. It also allows me to move weight where I need it (e.g. low centre).

Another thing to keep in mind is material alone is meaningless unless it's backed up by a company that knows how to handle it. If one set of screws says 'Made in Japan' and another says 'Made in China' don't you have a tendency to pick Japanese made because of their reputation for high quality?
The point here is, not all Ti, stainless, or whatever screws are the same. All of these materials are a combination of metals. How the metals are mixed, heated, and cooled affects their quality greatly. One bad experience with low cost Ti screws doesn't mean all Ti screws are crap. Go with a higher quality brand.

I wonder if anyone has made screws from Beta Titanium? That would be really awesome as a material for screws but I would guess the price is so outrageous that no one would even go to the effort.
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Old 10-17-2006, 11:47 AM   #19
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I always used Hardcore Racing Ti screws in all my cars. They are a bit more pricey buy I have yet to strip one out. The Mugen Ti screws seem to be just as good. I've tried the China brand stuff (GPM). They sucked royally. My aluminum screws were 3x stronger then them.

Remember that you don't wont to use a Ti screw in an alum. part. Like the steering post. Without anti-seize you will get Cold Fusion and may need to drill out the Ti screw head as well as replace the aluminum part. This fact is speaking from experience.
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Old 10-17-2006, 09:22 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Hi Tony,

Are your 3 mm x 3 mm set screws also grade 12.9?

Thanks for the info.
Hi,

My set screws are Grade 14.9

When I tighten up the set screws on my Mugen's, I use a T-handle hex driver. The shaft is twisted I crank them so hard...LOL

I use blue loctite on all my screws in my off-road cars, including the CVD's and drive axles. I've yet to ever have a screw back out or loosen up. The only time I ever used red loctite was on my T-Maxx 5mm wheel nuts...hahaha

kidDynomite is right on the Ti screws in alum parts. Like I said earlier, the two metals don't mesh very well.

When people email me about Titanium screws, I always tell them that the only place I'd use them on an off-road car is on top of the radio tray, tank mount, splash guard, basically parts that don't see much dirt, aren't aluminum and don't experience a lot of stress. They also look pretty up there...LOL I take the radio tray out of my Mugen's all the time, but it's always the six 3x10mm flat heads from under the chassis. The only time I ever remove the screws up top is to replace a failed servo (which has happened about 2x in the last two years). If I had some Ti screws I might use them up there, but quite honestly, when you take out all the screws that strength and reliabilty matters, the ones left weigh close to nothing. The few grams saved could be saved 10x over somewhere else (such as Titanium turnbuckles, composite pieces instead of aluminum, LiPo Rx packs, etc).

Best regards,
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Old 10-17-2006, 10:04 PM   #21
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Go with Tony's Screws, they are the best.
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Old 10-18-2006, 02:40 AM   #22
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it sounds like you are stripping not because of the quality of the screws (the standard mtx4 steel screws are stronger than titanium) but because your hex driver is worn out. you should change your 2mm hex every 3 or less months. it should fit int he screw without any play. if you can wiggle the hex driver in the head of a new unwarped screw this is a sign that the hex driver is worn out.

get a new one and see the difference. it is worth the $20 every 3 months, keeps your screws safe from stripping and hence spending $50 on speacial drill bits to get it out!
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Old 10-27-2006, 05:00 AM   #23
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Anyone noticed Mugen Ti screws are shorter, by 0.2 to 0.3 mm?
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Old 10-27-2006, 05:56 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
it sounds like you are stripping not because of the quality of the screws (the standard mtx4 steel screws are stronger than titanium) but because your hex driver is worn out. you should change your 2mm hex every 3 or less months. it should fit int he screw without any play. if you can wiggle the hex driver in the head of a new unwarped screw this is a sign that the hex driver is worn out.

get a new one and see the difference. it is worth the $20 every 3 months, keeps your screws safe from stripping and hence spending $50 on speacial drill bits to get it out!


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Old 10-27-2006, 11:54 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gunalorsel
Anyone noticed Mugen Ti screws are shorter, by 0.2 to 0.3 mm?

Yes... I noticed the same thing
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