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Old 09-22-2006, 07:11 AM   #31
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Ok I ran about 30min. at about 220F-230F. temp. I have let it gone up to 2nd gear let it top out and then let go of throttle. I have varied the RPM's without letting them go up too high for a long period.

I can see good smoke from the pipe and the sound is steady but I think I can go leaner for more power especially low needle.

I think I can start leaning it out to let her rip! Or should I wait more?

Apollo, what is a SAFE running temp. (After Break-In) for this engine? I have heard people saying that O.S. engines like to run hot

Thanks,
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Old 09-22-2006, 02:48 PM   #32
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how many tanks have you run through it? i ran 9 full tanks before i really let it rip, but you could get away with 5 if you really wanted to, also, i wouldnt hold it at top speed for over a second right now, just because its new, and you might stretch the rod more than you should, and dont go leaner right now, as long as you run between 220 and 250 it should be fine, but since the parts havent fully worn themselves in, they will rub more causing more heat, the engine will really open up by about a gallon into it, and the temp will slowly start to go down with the same needle settings because the parts will start to wear a little bit more into place, once you are done, just make sure you have good airflow, and tune to performance, you want crisp throttle response, and good top speed, but i would still check the temps, as logn as they are below 260 you are just fine, my engine opened up a little less than a gallon into it if i remember
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Old 09-23-2006, 08:10 AM   #33
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Right now I have ran 4 full tanks (full to the very very top).

I will be running 4-8 tanks today because the weather is beautiful.

So after these tanks I can let the temp go up to 260F maximum to be safe right?

I want to see more wheel spining and I can't wait
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Old 09-23-2006, 08:53 AM   #34
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dont bash the hell outta the engine right now, run about 3 more tanks, yeah you can go WOT, but try not to almost top the car out, remember the rod hasnt fully stretched yet, you dont want it stretching too far, and until your engine truly opens up in about 1/2-1 gallon, there will be excess friction from the parts wearing in and the temps will be up, its best to keep it around 250-230 (thats what i found on my stock engine) but anywhere from 220-260 is fine
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Old 09-24-2006, 03:19 PM   #35
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Thanks, I am 7 tanks into it now. I got a brand new exhaust for it yesterday and it makes a difference. I got a Skyline polished pipe that is for this car.

Sounds awesome. I found a little problem with the car shutting down on me at low speed. I thought it was tunning but it I found that my fuel tank primer button is not pumping well. I found that I need to push it a lot for fuel to travel to the carb.

I think that the fuel tank primer button is jamming fuel from getting into the carb. As anyone encountered this? I think I can remove the primer button or get a new tank.

This is not letting me tune up since it is not giving me correct fuel intake.
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Old 09-24-2006, 04:31 PM   #36
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since when did skyline make a side exhaust header for their pipes? or didja use another one

and you say that the fuel tank primer is not allowing fuel in, well, is there something blocking it? get one fo the racing fuel tanks that has no primer if you dont want to risk having an air leak, by the way, you should also seal the engine up with ATV, should help a little bit
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Old 09-24-2006, 09:00 PM   #37
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Yeap my local hobby shop had the Skyline pipe in stock. It is for the HPI MT trucks and RS4 3. It comes with the header and pipe. It is a polished metal pipe and the header connect to the pipe with a silicone fitting and then 3 small springs hole them together. It looks cool plus it increases performance because it is thick all the way from the header to the pipe collector.

Where do you use ATV? I heard not to use acidic silicones near the engine since it is corrosive.

The tanks primer button is clean and not stuck but it seems like fuel is not getting through the o-rings in the bottom. I think.

I gotta check if I can remove the buttom by cutting it on the top and getting it out with pliers. After that I will cover the hole with silicone and screw.
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Old 09-25-2006, 05:16 PM   #38
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you use the RTV silicone at the carb base and on the backplate to make the engine airtight, and dont worry about it, its fine on aluminum, they use it on aluminum car engine blocks all the time, some manuals say not to use after run oil, but i dont care, i do it anyways, and how does it seem like fuel is not flwoing through? the tank is fine as long as there arent air bubbles going through it, and no, dont try to do that to the tank, you cant cut the bottom off them glue it/seal ti back together with silicone, i have figured out already that you should just buy another one, i tried to fix a tank once and it never worked, dont worry about the tank, unless there is an obvious air leak or you know for sure something is blocking it
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Old 09-26-2006, 06:43 AM   #39
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Thanks for the info. I am just going to buy a primerless button fuel tank to avoid any air leaks. I think the one for the R40 HPI car fits. All you have to do is put your finger over the stinger and pull until fuel enters the carb to start it.

I can't see anything clogging the line or tank but I press the button and hardly any fuel get through the line!

I removed it and flushed it with fresh fuel very little gets through. I think the o-ring inside the tank is old and not letting fuel through.

I am just going to get a tank.
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Old 09-26-2006, 11:50 AM   #40
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The R40 tank wont fit. You just need to get the racing tank without primer. Unless the primer is leaking, I wouldn't worry about it. Just prime it with the finger over the stinger method. Actually, the best way is just to turn the engine on a starter box until it starts, that way you don't get any crap getting blown into the tank from the pipe. You could also just rip out the primer and seal with rtv and a screw like you posted above. Thats an old school trick we used to do when the primerless tank wasn't available.
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Old 09-26-2006, 04:10 PM   #41
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Thanks RR. I am going to try to rip the primer button off and seal it. If that does not work I will be getting a primerless tank that fits.
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Old 09-27-2006, 08:06 PM   #42
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Hey guys. My LHS had an HPI in stock and they recommend it.

The HPI part #72525 Racing Fuel Tank 75cc

It is for the Nitro RS4 Racer 2 but they told me it fits perfect on the RS4 3's and Evo's.

They recommend it because there is no air leak problems since it has no primer button. It has the pressure nipple on the lid and the fuel outlet out by the top portion of the tank behind the lid.

It is also neat because it brings an internal fuel filter element by where the fuel is picked up to the fuel tube on top behind the lid.

My LHS owner has a Racer 2 HPI the is currently running 107MPH clocked with accurate reading (according to them) It has a .25 engine modified by Mario Rossi. It only has 1 speed and very skinny tires in front for less friction.

I am dying to see this thing in action.

I will keep you posted of the new tank and power increase after total break in.
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Old 09-28-2006, 12:53 AM   #43
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Thats the correct tank. All of the RS4 tanks are the same size. You should be happy with it.
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Old 09-28-2006, 04:03 PM   #44
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Thanks, I pretty much thought they were all 75cc for the rs4's but I wasn't sure about the screw placements on the chassis and shape of the tank. I now see any rs4 tank will fit fine.

This tank looks like it will do a much better job at keeping a good seal with no air leak problem.
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Old 09-28-2006, 05:11 PM   #45
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ran my OS yesterday, took a head shim out to try and get compression back from my head button mod (increased volume=decreased compresson), rasn pretty good, started on the first pull, even with after run oil in it, how is yours working for yuh?
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