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Old 09-15-2006, 07:34 AM   #16
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Apollo:

I was looking at the hpi website under the new .18 SS RS4 3 and the instructions show the following gear ratios:

Pininon gears:

#76979 RED 19T
#76983 RED 23 T

Spur Gears:

#76843 43T
#76817 47T ( you gave me towerhobbies link for 39T spur) is this the right one you are using? Or was it a mistake?

Thanks
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Old 09-15-2006, 11:45 AM   #17
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Okay, now I see your delima. I thought that there were more gearing options available. It looks like Apollo is using part No. A445 for the 2nd gear. This seems to be the same part used for the older RS4 heavy duty 2 speed. If this is the case, HPI makes a 37 tooth gear that will fit. You might need to twist the engine slightly to get the gears to engage properly, but you will get more top end.
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Old 09-15-2006, 05:05 PM   #18
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no the link for the 39t spur was correct, it gives more top end, i havent seen a 37t that would fit so i will have to look into it, and there is a slight fitment issue with the 18 cv-rx and high gear ratios, 1. you have to grind the notches for the engine mounts further towards the spur gears by about 2-3mm, and also the pull start hits the diff, so you will need to slightly grind the diff case and that other little part beside it, i might be able to find a picture sometime to show you
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Old 09-16-2006, 06:19 AM   #19
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Thanks guys for all your help. Any pics would be appreciated
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Old 09-16-2006, 07:02 PM   #20
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The Rs 43 with that engine rocks should top out at about high 50's. It is a perfect combination for street bashing. On a side note, it is the most reliable engine i have ever used. I think i attached the pictures but am unsure if i did or what happened... Sorry im still a newbie to the website and forums in general. Think the picture size is too big for website, if you know how you can tell me how to reduce the file size to post here thanks
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Old 09-16-2006, 08:06 PM   #21
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yes it is a great, reliable engine, and high 50's is a good place to set your goals for

as for pics, open them up in ms paint, image, stretch skew, then downsize it, then load it to a site like www.photobucket.com, and post the img code
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Old 09-19-2006, 06:40 AM   #22
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I could not see the photo apollo. I got the engine and put in on the car this past weekend. I did have to grind a little off the diff. case and a good idea to fit the pullstart on is to remove the little cross bar in the rear that holds the radio plate first, then put the engine on to get a good gear mesh, and then put the cross bar in the rear back on along with the radio gear.

The engine looks massive on the chassis. I have not started it yet but this week I will start the break-in process.

Oh my hobby shop told me to run it with the stock 47/44 spurs for now until I get used to it. He even mentioned not to get a new header and pipe so I will be running it in using the stock plastic HPI one for now. He told me this set up is a good start and should be a big improvement over my .12CVR-X.

I figured not to rush things so I listened and will be breaking it in like this and try it out unitl I go for more

I will keep you guys up to date with break in and my observations. Hopefully I will be overwhelmed with the new power

Thanks for you inputs guys, it really helps.
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Old 09-19-2006, 02:27 PM   #23
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i wasnt trying to send you a picture, i was showing you a site to go to as an online storage place to host pics

here are some of my pics, and you dont need tot ake off the radio tray support, just grind it like this (sorry the car was a little dirty)





with the stock 44-47 combo on the gears, the acceleration will be pretty good, but you'll be wringing its neck if you wunna go fast, its just not a high revving engine, i would say with that combo you have, you maybe go 45mph if you are lucky, and how do you plan on breaking it in? make sure you have a spare glow plug or 2
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Old 09-19-2006, 04:37 PM   #24
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Nice car setup and body! I have the same Acura body. I bought 2 extra O.S. #8 plugs plus the one the engine brings so that should be enough for break-in.
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Old 09-19-2006, 04:43 PM   #25
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I noticed you have two fuel filters; one for the intake and one for the pipe to tank pressure. Is this good or extra safety that is recommended? I only have one on the fuel intake.

Is the spring in the back a throttle return? I need one of those what did you use?
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Old 09-19-2006, 05:37 PM   #26
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i always get questions about that damn fuel filter

the fuel filter on the pressure line is empty, there is no filter element in there, i jsut use it as an expansion chamber to smooth out the fuel delivery, it seemed to make a definate increase in performance at the time, i havent tried it with my new engine but i will leave it since 1. its looks cool, 2. it matches the cooling head, i used a filter like that because thats what my lhs has, and the only one close to it is a red one by ofna, mine is made by patriot rc whoever they are

and as for the throttle return spring, i made that up the other night before racing, i wanted to take every possible precaution, here is a better picture

i just went by a hardware store and found a spring that fit the dimensions, but that wasnt too strong to eat up my servo, this one got stretched out so i had to stretch it farther to have enough force, dont midn the zip ties support the body post (it got cracked) and the car is dirty, spring was about $1.10
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Old 09-19-2006, 08:34 PM   #27
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LOL! I am sure you got questions about the 2nd fuel filter. Good idea with the spring. Don't worry about the dirty car since it is all part of the nitro hobby.

Today I started it up. I noticed that the O.S. factory settings are way too rich. I had to close the high speed needle about one turn in. It fired after a couple of pulls and purred nicely. I ran it about 2 minutes and noticed that the low needle was way too rich as well so I closed it about 30 degress and it started getting better.

I shut down about 3 1/2 minutes into it and let it cool down with the piston at the bottom. I fired it up again and noticed that after reaching about 210 F. temperature, when I gun it while on stand still it chokes up. I am thinking that the low is toooo rich so I will close it in some more tommorow.

I could not contiune b-cuz it started raining

It really sounds awesome even with the stock HPI plastic pipe.
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Old 09-19-2006, 09:00 PM   #28
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use this method for break in, read after post #5 (post #6) http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_2786285/tm.htm
i would definately get my engine up to at least 220, and tune it so the needles are only slightly rich, and it will sound good period, even though i hate that stupid hpi composite pipe, also, this engine will run with just aobtu any setting short of extremely lean, when i first made my own fuel, i started it up, idles ok, then when i went wot, it would sputter and not want to get up there, i ended up having to lean it out over a full turn to get it over 130 degrees, so that goes to say how good the os is, it will run with almost any setting, very reliable engine
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Old 09-20-2006, 08:15 PM   #29
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I agree with the heat cycle break in practice. The only thing I did not do was take my new engine apart to clean it up before running it. I know it is probably a better practice to do and you will probably get more run time out of your piston and sleeve but It sort of bothers me taking a new engine apart to clean it up since it would only get you maybe a few extra tanks in engine lifespan.

I keep asking you questions huh? I noticed you have (I think a speedometer) a yellow box on your radio recv. Is it accurate?

Also did you cut out the side windows on your body? I just opened a hole in the front and rear windows for air cooling. I thought cutting up the side windows will affect aerodynamics?

Thanks for your patience. Sort of rookie at some of this stuff
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Old 09-21-2006, 06:10 AM   #30
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maybe more than a few tanks, some engines have left ove metal shavings in there that you want out before you run your engine, and the lime green thing is a venom smart temp, not a speedometer, and i cut out the side windows and circle in the front and back too
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