Converting an XR 80 to the XR8
08-27-2006, 07:54 PM
#3
XR80 to an XR8
You would need to change the top radio plate, chassis, shock towers, clutch, and clutch bell, <get the hardened one, not the aluminum one>.
To go one even better, use the new Kyosho Evolva fuel tank. It takes only about 5 minutes worth of dremmel time to make it fit.
Then fo the the PRP web site, click on the XR8, go to the set-up sheet for the Fort Myers race.
That set-up is a great start.
Also use the Mugen white springs in front with 70 weight oil, and the red springs in the rear with 50 weight oil.
Ditch the stock pipe, and depending on which engine you use pick a good pipe.
I am using the new Rex 321P race engine, and the Novarossi 9886 pipe.
I am also using Airtronics 358 steering servo, and an Airtronics 357 for throttle.
PRP has also changed the rear shaft to a hardened shaft wich is also a good idea to use. The original shafts tend to wear out fairly quick.
You can also use the Mugen rear shaft with all the associated parts,pullies,two speed housing,spur gears, and Mugen clutch, clutch bell and pinions.
If you can,pick up the new Kyosho "dome" body, as they really have a lot of front down force, and help with the off power push the most PRP cars have.
I have changed my car so much with aftermarket parts, Mugen parts, Kyosho parts, that it is hardly a PRP car anymore, but it handles fantastic.
Hope this helps, and good luck. These are great cars if they are set-up right, and can really be a "sleeper"
To go one even better, use the new Kyosho Evolva fuel tank. It takes only about 5 minutes worth of dremmel time to make it fit.
Then fo the the PRP web site, click on the XR8, go to the set-up sheet for the Fort Myers race.
That set-up is a great start.
Also use the Mugen white springs in front with 70 weight oil, and the red springs in the rear with 50 weight oil.
Ditch the stock pipe, and depending on which engine you use pick a good pipe.
I am using the new Rex 321P race engine, and the Novarossi 9886 pipe.
I am also using Airtronics 358 steering servo, and an Airtronics 357 for throttle.
PRP has also changed the rear shaft to a hardened shaft wich is also a good idea to use. The original shafts tend to wear out fairly quick.
You can also use the Mugen rear shaft with all the associated parts,pullies,two speed housing,spur gears, and Mugen clutch, clutch bell and pinions.
If you can,pick up the new Kyosho "dome" body, as they really have a lot of front down force, and help with the off power push the most PRP cars have.
I have changed my car so much with aftermarket parts, Mugen parts, Kyosho parts, that it is hardly a PRP car anymore, but it handles fantastic.
Hope this helps, and good luck. These are great cars if they are set-up right, and can really be a "sleeper"
08-28-2006, 06:52 AM
#4
You will also need the XR8 engine mounts (the 80 mounts are much taller for the shaft start engine).
08-29-2006, 07:50 AM
#8
The centax style clutch is more tuneable than the three shoe that came with the 80. It also has lower rotating mass.
If this is your first 1/8 on-road car, I recomend keeping the stock clutch for now. You have a lot to learn with chassis set-up. You can waste a lot of valuble track time trying to get your centax clutch set-up properly. Time better spent getting the chassis right. Once you have the handling right, then get the clutch.
If this is your first 1/8 on-road car, I recomend keeping the stock clutch for now. You have a lot to learn with chassis set-up. You can waste a lot of valuble track time trying to get your centax clutch set-up properly. Time better spent getting the chassis right. Once you have the handling right, then get the clutch.
08-30-2006, 07:40 AM
#10
By 1.1 springs, latemodel is probably referring to the Mugen 1.1 springs for buggies (just threw that in in case llamont did not know what 1.1 meant).
Good suggestion, by the way...
Good suggestion, by the way...
08-30-2006, 06:26 PM
#11
Save money, keep your current car and purchase a Mugen, Serpent ect and save your self tons, tons, of money by not having to spend as much on broken parts. The cars need so much to upgrade, pinion gears are a joke, ect.................one of the best racers at our track A main 1/10 pick up an XR8 and could not keep it in one piece, he could not keep up with the broken parts, me mister D main would have my car break most times before the races even start. Yes I suck but one of my buddies feeling sorry for me sold me his used mrx-during one on my hard hits the car broke the damn board in the turn, lost a wheel poped back on kept running, with my XR8 which never hit the boards this hard would have been done racing for at least a couple week for repairs.
On a fun note my XR8 we painted the racing name on the car which is not not drivable now but to see some of the drivers watching that car going around with "Team Sneeze" as in a sneeze will break it, was almost worth all of the money I wasted on this piece of crap car.
On a fun note my XR8 we painted the racing name on the car which is not not drivable now but to see some of the drivers watching that car going around with "Team Sneeze" as in a sneeze will break it, was almost worth all of the money I wasted on this piece of crap car.
08-30-2006, 07:04 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Tire Chunker
Save money, keep your current car and purchase a Mugen, Serpent ect and save your self tons, tons, of money by not having to spend as much on broken parts. The cars need so much to upgrade, pinion gears are a joke, ect.................one of the best racers at our track A main 1/10 pick up an XR8 and could not keep it in one piece, he could not keep up with the broken parts, me mister D main would have my car break most times before the races even start. Yes I suck but one of my buddies feeling sorry for me sold me his used mrx-during one on my hard hits the car broke the damn board in the turn, lost a wheel poped back on kept running, with my XR8 which never hit the boards this hard would have been done racing for at least a couple week for repairs.
On a fun note my XR8 we painted the racing name on the car which is not not drivable now but to see some of the drivers watching that car going around with "Team Sneeze" as in a sneeze will break it, was almost worth all of the money I wasted on this piece of crap car.
On a fun note my XR8 we painted the racing name on the car which is not not drivable now but to see some of the drivers watching that car going around with "Team Sneeze" as in a sneeze will break it, was almost worth all of the money I wasted on this piece of crap car.
Loren
08-31-2006, 04:38 AM
#13
XR80 to the XR8
Whether it ia the XR8, Mugen MRX4,Kyosho Evolva,Serpent 960, it really does not make a difference, as any of these cars will only take so much abuse.
I have both the XR8, and the Kyosho 2005 Evolva, and an impact is an impact.
The XR80, and the XR8 were designed to be affordable of the first time driver to get into the 1/8 scale cars, which they did,and very well at that.
If a competent driver puts one of these cars on the track, they can and are very competitive and can easliy hold their own with the other cars mentioned.
As you said, your driving sucks<your words>but I am sure if you gave the Kyosho, Mugens,and Serpents the same abuse you gave the XR8, you would probably be saying those cars sucked also .
I have both the XR8, and the Kyosho 2005 Evolva, and an impact is an impact.
The XR80, and the XR8 were designed to be affordable of the first time driver to get into the 1/8 scale cars, which they did,and very well at that.
If a competent driver puts one of these cars on the track, they can and are very competitive and can easliy hold their own with the other cars mentioned.
As you said, your driving sucks<your words>but I am sure if you gave the Kyosho, Mugens,and Serpents the same abuse you gave the XR8, you would probably be saying those cars sucked also .
08-31-2006, 10:33 AM
#14
I have a Serpent 960, PRP XR8, and have had Evolva 03 & NEO Sabre.
Can't say there is much difference in durabillity between any of them.
Clip a board at speed & leave parts on the track.
Can't say there is much difference in durabillity between any of them.
Clip a board at speed & leave parts on the track.
08-31-2006, 10:36 AM
#15
By the way, the pinion gears are just fine. Never had a problem with them, ran the same ones all last year (except for the occasional change to get a better ratio for a particular track).