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Old 08-21-2006, 09:19 AM   #1
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Default HELP - Disc Brake & Frictions

I got a question on the tolerance of disc brake mouting in between the 2 brake pads. The problem is when i wheel my car (without firing up the engine) i get resistence at a particular point and it'll need extra force (although not too much) to push it over that particular point. At 1st i thought some stone or dirt had wedge in between the teeth of the gear that the belt runs (i'm driving a Kyosho V-One RR EVO) but i had check all 3 belts and the gear that rolls it and did not seen foriegn object wedge between them.

Then i try to loosen up the 2 brake screws that goes through the brake mount, brake pad and brake disc to a certain exten it starts to move more freely but still had the resistence at the same point although much more milder this time. should i loosen the 2 screws some more? the more i lossen up the screws, the brake disc are jangling. is it right? Are the brake disc not suppose to shift side to side in between the brake pads?

Or is there something wrong else where that causes the resistence when i try to push the car by hand gently?
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:21 AM   #2
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What car are you running?

I had a similar problem on my 710 and it had to do with the pin in the 2 speed box. It was too small for the hole and was getting loose and stuck. When putting in the right pin, all was well again.
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Old 08-22-2006, 05:46 AM   #3
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It may seem stupid but is your engine mounted straight with a good mesh
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Old 08-22-2006, 05:48 AM   #4
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you should check to see if you have a warped brake disk as this can cause this problem if there is'nt anything stuck in the belts or pulleys
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Old 08-22-2006, 06:35 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonely0
I got a question on the tolerance of disc brake mouting in between the 2 brake pads. The problem is when i wheel my car (without firing up the engine) i get resistence at a particular point and it'll need extra force (although not too much) to push it over that particular point. At 1st i thought some stone or dirt had wedge in between the teeth of the gear that the belt runs (i'm driving a Kyosho V-One RR EVO) but i had check all 3 belts and the gear that rolls it and did not seen foriegn object wedge between them.

Then i try to loosen up the 2 brake screws that goes through the brake mount, brake pad and brake disc to a certain exten it starts to move more freely but still had the resistence at the same point although much more milder this time. should i loosen the 2 screws some more? the more i lossen up the screws, the brake disc are jangling. is it right? Are the brake disc not suppose to shift side to side in between the brake pads?

Or is there something wrong else where that causes the resistence when i try to push the car by hand gently?
the resistance that you feel may not have anything to do with the brakes. It could be that your experiencing overdrive. Check the front and rear wheel diameters. If your kit comes with an overdrive sheet use it. you may have to run a 1mm or 2mm split to solve this meaning 1 or 2mm difference in the diameter of front and rear tires (rear being bigger usually). You experience this because one axle is spinning faster than the other, which causes one of the axles to drag.
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:41 AM   #6
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I'm driving a V-One RR EVO with a new engine OS .12 TR 11A Turbo using OS P7 glow plug. Firstly thanks for all your advice. i dismantle the top deck to take a closer look on the problem but found the cause not too long... a pebble so small are wedge in the spur of the front rear spur. removing it solve my resistence problem.

Guys, i'm having a real hard time breaking my new engine. I feel like giving up now. The engine is so tight and i have to lean it so lean on the HSN (1 turn & 30 degree from close position) so that it wants to move. The response is good and pickup is good too still with alot of white smoke (i know lots of smoke means too rich) but i'm running so lean on the HSN now should i go leaner? It's been almost a week and i'm only on my 3rd tank of running in procedure because i'm facing a major crisis with my LRP starter box. the batt just could not give me enough juice to last me for half a day because while running in i had to re-start the engine a few time and sometime it just don't wanna fire up. Keep on tryin till my starter box batt goes flat n head home. Wish i can do the run in at home without annoying my neigbour.

Is it ok to do run in not at one go but spreadout over the months or weeks? I feel like throwing the damn engine and starter box away.
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:10 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stonely0
Is it ok to do run in not at one go but spreadout over the months or weeks? I feel like throwing the damn engine and starter box away.
You can spread the break in out over a long time, that's OK. Once you have a few tanks through and the engine starts to loosen up starting and tuning will become easier.
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Old 08-22-2006, 12:17 PM   #8
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Preheat the engine with a heat gun or a powerful hairdryer before putting it on the starterbox. That helps a lot. I had the same problem with my Novarossi, battery went dead during break in, the rubber of the starterwheel almost went dead as well. I went and bought a heat gun, never had the same problem again. I strongly recommend it.
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