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Old 01-31-2003, 10:39 PM   #31
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Ok dear hpi. Like many people said, including myself, it's your clutch on the engine. The 2 speed has nothing to do with idleing! nothign at all. You dont need to understand that, just except it. The only part of the 2-speed that has something to do with the idle is the clutchbell itself. Now, i've said before than a little back and forth motion wont hurt the dtrivetrain. Pops said it would if it is bad enough. I can agree with that cuz the man speaks the truth. Now, if your clutch(plack thing with springs that hits the clutchbell(thing with teeth)) itself if good and bearing is good then its your engine. Tune your carb. It is likely your idle is too high. But if thats not it then tune the other needles. Start from your main, then low-end then idle. It has to be your engine if your engine clutch and stuff on the pilot shaft is in good shape. Please make sure your engine is tuned right. Start off by seeing if the idle is too high. . If your engine is piss poor tuned, then forget about idleing and or taking off, or killing after a while.
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Old 02-01-2003, 01:45 AM   #32
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Ever thought it could be the clutch bell hitting the flywheel? or like AMG said, the clutch bell bushes overheating, expanding, and effectively engaging the clutch bell at a very low rpm.

It would be very unlikley that a high idle would cause it... a high idle, even high enough to engauge the clutch, would not allow the car to sit still.

My money is on the clutchbell bushes.... a flame out because of engine tune, doesnt produce the sound that has been described.
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Old 02-10-2003, 07:05 PM   #33
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Okay guys you were right, it was the clutch needle bearing and not the 2 speed, i founf that somehow the clutch needle bearing was not lubed and had dirt in it... I greased the bearing and bushing and now it seems to work fine, i will take it out for a run ASAP.


Thankyou,
Robert
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Old 02-11-2003, 12:09 PM   #34
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Default 2 Speed Troubles

Quote:
Originally posted by Fiream
Okay guys you were right, it was the clutch needle bearing and not the 2 speed, i founf that somehow the clutch needle bearing was not lubed and had dirt in it... I greased the bearing and bushing and now it seems to work fine, i will take it out for a run ASAP.

Thankyou,
Robert
Quote:
Originally posted by Popsracer It's NOT your engine, it's your clutch bearings/bushings squealing from lack of lubrication.
T.Y.S.

Last edited by popsracer; 02-11-2003 at 12:12 PM.
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Old 02-11-2003, 12:18 PM   #35
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Your welcome Firearm.
Glad I, well all of us could help.
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Old 02-11-2003, 01:34 PM   #36
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I guess i gotta be careful not to run into a pile of sand anymore...lol Oh the other question, How long do clutch shoes last, i have burned up mine yet, but i've talked to a bunch of people who have had R/C cars for many years they have said that clutch shoe last about 1-2 seasons, well atleast of there cars. I'm on my second seasons it late March earily April and there not even really worn yet.... Would it make sense to just get the racing shoe anyways???


Thanks Again,
Rob

P.S. I'm almost done with the body in the picture.... I'll sell if someone wants it or i'll run it if no one is interesting, It has working lights......Really cool too...
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Old 02-11-2003, 02:58 PM   #37
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If you run the clutch shoes as standard they will last longer than the engine itself in my experience but once you start modifying them (trimming them to get the optimum bite point for clutch engagement) they tend not to last too long at all.

My last set of clutch shoes only lasted about 4months. Now I use a Serpent Centax in my car although I will be getting the Yokomo unit now to work with my new gearbox.
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Old 02-11-2003, 06:38 PM   #38
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Default Fiream;

The racing clutch shoes usually (for HPI) have more adjustments and grab better. They also will handle the heat of racing without melting as the stock shoes will sometimes.
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Old 02-11-2003, 11:12 PM   #39
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Firearm, just as a precaution, I would try see (at least) if you can get regular bearings for your clutch bell that would be great...but I kind of doubt it(I haven't seen oneof the HPI two speeds in a while because I [still] have the OFNA 2 speed).

Also, once your needle bearing has gone bad, it doesn't get much better after you've fixed it up (cleaning and lubing it). When a needle bearing has been fouled up, it is harder to rotate, due to friction and heat which causes a lot of wear on the bearing. It seems apparent that your car has had this problem for a several runs (could be wrong). Even taken care of, this needle bearing could explode, melt or do other devilish things. When you have the chance, I would recommend that you replace the bearing.

(why did the rs4 ever come with this small thing... it is the cause of so many freak accidents to this vehicle...)


And about the clutch wear, I don't talk to other guys about it much, but the HPI racing clutch (or MIP clutch) last forever...
In contrast, my stock Mugen clutch shoes obtain obvious wear in 3 race days...its not bad, but definitely not great. I'm going to end up with the aluminum clutch shoes soon.
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