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Old 07-23-2006, 07:07 AM   #1
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Default Engine Break in Method

would really like to find out more about the properly engine break in procedures. coz we previously have been using this method, but some of them has negative feedback, i.e. piston sleeve and the turbo head have little scratches or rought surfaces.

- run on starter box for 2-3 tanks
- run on track with really low speed (not engaging on 2nd speed), closing the high speed needle by little on each tank, for 3-4 tanks.
- run on track with high speed (or normal racing speed)
- bring the car in, then full throttle on the Tx, then turn the high speed needle to really lean, let is stay there for 3-5sec, then turn back the high speed needle, still full throttle on tx. Repeat for 5-6 times.
- run on straight road, then fine tune the high speed needle.

so may i ask if the above is neccessary, coz i really hated breaking engine as its time consuming, and also fuel consuming. the most hectic part is when u can't get it started due to the piston got stuck on the top part of the piston sleeve. thus have to use screw driver to pry on the flywheel to move it down so as to start.

really appreciated if someone can share with us on the breaking in method as we are so clueless, coz i think all ppl have different method, and some said that its not neccessary to run on idle for 2-3 tanks.
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:16 AM   #2
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Even the engine manufacturers don't agree on the best way to run in an engine. Some say to idle for a few tanks (hpi), some say to idle, but only a few minutes at a time (STS) and others say to just tune it very rich and drive slowly while varying engine RPM (Mega/Serpent). And another story is to tune the engine so rich that it barely moves at full throttle and run it that way for a while...

I think it doesn't really matter which way you use, as long as you accomplish the goal of bringing the engine to its normal operating temperature (110 - 120 degrees celcius) and provide plenty of lubrication to avoid excessive wear due to the very tight fit...

Myself, I just tune the engine very rich and drive slow laps on the track. Never switch to second gear and after the third tank start to lean it out a bit. After about 6 or 7 tanks (or about an hour) the engine is ready to be used... I never had any issues with engine life...
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:29 AM   #3
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Try this, it works for me. And use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the engine and it won't stick (as much).


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=70580
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Old 07-23-2006, 09:11 AM   #4
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He is right, this is the easiest break in method I have used. Will never do it any other way.
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Old 07-23-2006, 10:18 AM   #5
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The scratches you are describing could also be from leaving some fuels in the motor after running. This is why there's after run oil(although I read somewhere that some fuels have preservative in them already). Nitro will pit or eat aluminum, and I've seen damage from this, but it doesn't look like scratches, more like little missing chunks. Is that what you're seeing? The hair dryer break in method is my favorite, makes it alot easier to get passed the initial pinch.
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Old 07-23-2006, 04:13 PM   #6
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im gona try this with my new motor.
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Old 07-23-2006, 07:32 PM   #7
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wait a min, so u guys are saying to just use hair dryer to heat up the top part of the piston sleeve? could u pls explain more in detail?

- do we need to remove the glow plug to heat up the piston sleeve?
- how long to blow directly into the piston sleeve?
- so thats all? no need to idle up few tanks? no need to run rich few laps? no need to high rev at very lean, and bring it back to normal?

for the scratches, its basically some vertical line at the top of the piston, we suspect that it might be caused by the fact that we haven't fully let the piston push up to the top of the piston sleeve. my frenz is even worse, the turbo head (where we screw in out glow plug) is very rought, there are some black particles on it. i think it might be caused by engine overheating, thereby pushing the piston too far above the sleeve.

*would be really appreciated if someone could help me out in this.
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Old 07-23-2006, 08:00 PM   #8
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[QUOTE=uniquexme]wait a min, so u guys are saying to just use hair dryer to heat up the top part of the piston sleeve? could u pls explain more in detail?

- do we need to remove the glow plug to heat up the piston sleeve?
- how long to blow directly into the piston sleeve?
- so thats all? no need to idle up few tanks? no need to run rich few laps? no need to high rev at very lean, and bring it back to normal?

Don't know about the scratches.

As far as heating the engine; just heat it up until it is hot to the touch. I like to get the entire engine hot. I guess it takes something like three to five minutes, don't know for sure I never really paid attention about how long.

Don't idle any more than to warm up the engine, the whole idea is not to idle for too long.

The instructions also say to run a little rich and blip the throttle then run a couple of tanks on the track fairly rich and gradually lean it out.
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Old 07-24-2006, 11:50 PM   #9
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When you ask about run in method you really need to stop and think what your doing.
What you are doing is loosening up the engine, which involves wearing the piston and sleeve in together and seating all moving parts, bushings in the conrod.

Now think about it, no matter what the run in procedure most say you need to heat cycle which simply means letting the engine get hot and expand then cool down and shrink.

Now how are you supposed to do that by idling an engine or running it slower then an old lady driving to chruch. Personally i believe in josh cyrul's Wide open throttle technique, where the engine is so rich it cannot rev out too high but because it is revving its obtaining heat.
Also anything done in breaking an engine needs to be done gradually dont run it in and then suddenly lean it 1-2 turns or however much you need to. lean it gradually as you get closer and closer to the finish around 1/12-1/16th of a turn and the gradually lean once its run in.

also i'm pro heat gun when it comes to running in.
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Old 07-25-2006, 11:16 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ted Flack
Try this, it works for me. And use a heat gun or hair dryer to warm the engine and it won't stick (as much).


http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=70580

Works for me too. The Cyrul's break in procedure is fairly quick to do too. I'm still on the same motor for a season & 1/2. It make breaking in a few motors more fun to do in the same time it takes to do one the old uban legend way.
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Old 07-25-2006, 01:34 PM   #11
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Yeah, cyrul's method really works. I've been using it for a while now.
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Old 07-25-2006, 06:36 PM   #12
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guys, m wondering if there is any hair dryer or heat gun out there that can use batteries to power it up, coz at the local track, there is no electricity, so we can't use hair dryer to heat up the engine, so that the piston dun get stuck at the top part of the sleeve.

i have also noticed that RB Rody method of covering the heat sink with something (maybe like alum foil), can we use it together with cyrul method for the very 1st tank? would it be neccessary?
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Old 07-26-2006, 02:48 AM   #13
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During the very 1st start up of engine, do you guys' piston get stuck at the top of the sleeve/liner? coz i remember that last time when i break in my engine, it got stuck and i have to use the screw driver to dig on the flywheel to get it down. so if anyone could kindly share their recommendations here. thanks.
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:08 AM   #14
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if it gets stuck i just heat it up again and it pops and goes back down...
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Old 07-26-2006, 05:34 AM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
During the very 1st start up of engine, do you guys' piston get stuck at the top of the sleeve/liner? coz i remember that last time when i break in my engine, it got stuck and i have to use the screw driver to dig on the flywheel to get it down. so if anyone could kindly share their recommendations here. thanks.
I have saved my old flywheel somewhere, and only use it now to run in engines. It's full of screw driver scratch marks...
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