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Old 07-26-2006, 07:05 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by uniquexme
i have also noticed that RB Rody method of covering the heat sink with something (maybe like alum foil), can we use it together with cyrul method for the very 1st tank? would it be neccessary?
With the Cyrul methode, the engine is set so rich that it will not really heat up, I also use a towel to cover-up the cooling head......

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Originally Posted by uniquexme
During the very 1st start up of engine, do you guys' piston get stuck at the top of the sleeve/liner? coz i remember that last time when i break in my engine, it got stuck and i have to use the screw driver to dig on the flywheel to get it down. so if anyone could kindly share their recommendations here. thanks.
Always, ALWAYS first heat-up the engine with a hairdryer. Then you will not have any problem starting it on the start box......
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:49 AM   #17
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With the Cyrul methode will it be ok to heat with hot air while doing the first 3 tanks??
or would that over heat it
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Old 07-26-2006, 08:57 AM   #18
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With the Cyrul methode will it be ok to heat with hot air while doing the first 3 tanks??
or would that over heat it
It's better that the heat comes from inside the engine, and not from the outside, because then it will not break-in properly.
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Old 07-26-2006, 09:02 AM   #19
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what percentage of fuel is used in break in and oil percentage??
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Old 07-26-2006, 03:20 PM   #20
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I use regular fuel, the same stuff as I race with.....
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Old 07-26-2006, 06:25 PM   #21
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our track doesn't have power supply, so we can't use the hair dryer at all. hmm, i understand that using RB method of covering the heatsink with alum foil or tower will heat it up, but wat i meant is wat if it get stuck before u can start the engine? coz i reckon that by digging on the flywheel, we are forcing the piston down, so it might be this step that cause scratches on both piston and liner.
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Old 07-27-2006, 01:03 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
but wat i meant is wat if it get stuck before u can start the engine? coz i reckon that by digging on the flywheel, we are forcing the piston down, so it might be this step that cause scratches on both piston and liner.
Well, it's not the best for your engine, but it will survive.
But again, to avoid the piston to get stuck, heat it up...
If you don't have power on your local track, why don't you do the first part of the break-in at home?......
If you break-in the engine without heating it up, be very shure that you replace the conrod after break-in periode......
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Old 07-27-2006, 02:30 AM   #23
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hmm, true also, but one thing that i afraid is that the neighbour might complaint on the noice of idleing and WOT. kekeke.
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Old 07-27-2006, 02:54 AM   #24
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Don't do it at night then.....

But, placing an additional cover, or something, over your exhaust, works as a noisereducer.....
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Old 07-27-2006, 06:17 PM   #25
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may i ask why is that the piston still got scratches mark in between the top and 2 groove lines of piston after following cyrul's WOT Break in ?
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Old 07-27-2006, 06:44 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uniquexme
may i ask why is that the piston still got scratches mark in between the top and 2 groove lines of piston after following cyrul's WOT Break in ?
ya im just gona do my own runin thing, heat gun and two tanks on the box then on the track rich for two then start to lean it slowly
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