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Old 08-25-2002, 02:51 AM   #901
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Quote:
Originally posted by sparksy
could be a number of reasons....

age
running lean
poorly looking after the engine
defect
vibration
revving too high for too long
poor lubrication
The engine had been fully rebuilt only one meeting ago, i installed a new front bearing, conrod and piston & liner. Made sure i ran it in good, and after one race meet the conrod failed. On measuring the rod it was found to be a thousandth of a mm larger then the previous rod. Could this have been the cause or is it likely to be over advanced port timing or some thing else causing the problem? Dennis your comments greatly appreciated on this one?

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Old 08-25-2002, 07:12 PM   #902
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Old 08-25-2002, 07:15 PM   #903
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Old 08-26-2002, 09:20 AM   #904
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Was the piston and sleeve overly tight during break-in? This can cause stress on the rod bushing and make it fail prematurely. I always check mine after break-in and replace it, I also replace the rod at every rebuild especially my modified engines that see a lot of abuse.
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Old 08-26-2002, 08:45 PM   #905
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
hooked on, its more than likely a fuel problem( to little lubricant in the fuel) or it went lean some how.A thou rod clearence is at the upper end and the crank is probably contributing to half of that. However it should have lived.

I'll be out of town working a few months so I won't be responding to any posts. Have fun racing, looks like the balance of my season is over.
Denis,

I was using 6% Casta with 6% Klotz using 15% nitro like i have been using for the last 12mnths. We did some further port timing work on the crank with this last built and i wondered if the extra rpm that the engine produced would casue the rod to fail like it did?
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Old 08-27-2002, 12:42 PM   #906
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Quote:
Originally posted by hooked_on
I was using 6% Casta with 6% Klotz using 15% nitro like i have been using for the last 12mnths. We did some further port timing work on the crank with this last built and i wondered if the extra rpm that the engine produced would casue the rod to fail like it did?
Uhm.... maybe this 'extra rpm' and those 'further port timing on the crank' can produce those nasty things on the rod, first of all we need to define those terms.
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Old 08-27-2002, 12:50 PM   #907
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I've run some pretty nasty CV.12's and never had a rod failure because I kept it changed. What's a $12 rod compared to a $60 engine? The rod was probably past due on a change and just gave up the ghost.
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Old 08-27-2002, 04:50 PM   #908
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Dennis,

Check yo mail foo!
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Old 08-28-2002, 05:21 PM   #909
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Can anyone tell me where I can find Jtek mega .12 motor made by nova mega. Does anyone know anything about the motor.
Or can you tell me where I can find a pistion and button combo that has the dimple in the pistion.Locvated on the top of the pistion. Thanks for the help!!!
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Old 08-28-2002, 07:26 PM   #910
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i havent had anything to do with the engine before but have u use a piston locking tool on the engine before, if u have u have pushed too hard and u have put that dimpel in the piston yourself

Last edited by Brett; 08-29-2002 at 04:37 AM.
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Old 08-29-2002, 04:30 AM   #911
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Old 08-29-2002, 04:33 AM   #912
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Quote:
Originally posted by stefan

ahhhhhhhhhhhhh whats that meant to mean
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Old 09-03-2002, 03:44 PM   #913
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i got the motor fri and put it in the car and head to track. i break it in and after 2 tanks i lean it a little and man that motor pass 3 cars on a straight away on 1/2 throttle. i'm happy with this motor.
thanks a lot
S S MD 20902
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Old 09-06-2002, 08:22 PM   #914
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Quote:
Hurhur and W.Folk. your both right. the ramp smooths the entry as the 12 cranks are not machined with a ramp like the 21's are. Durability of the crank itself is not a problem with this mod and allows the engine to spool up quicker as the moment of inertia is lower but not by much as the mass is close to the point of rotation. The draw back is there is only a few fillers that can be used to fill the hole and make the ramp. I have not found one that Nitromethane will not attack and it eventually disloges or becomes loose
We used to chamfer the back plate right off to move it back more and then we used araldite to fill it in. This stuff works great in engines.
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Old 12-02-2002, 09:38 PM   #915
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So Dennis, can you give us the gist about how you balance the crankshaft when modifying engines.
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