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Old 07-16-2002, 09:31 AM   #766
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Quote:
Originally posted by kansasracer
InitialD:

The video is in super 8 format right now. I don't have the computer hardware to load it up to a internet site. I would donate a copy of it to someone who has that capability (as long as they make it public...)

Anyone?
I assume it's transfered in your comp and the video is in avi format right? How big is it? How long?

I actually had an interest to pursue DiVX and all this video formats seriously. Even have a firewire car in here. But then, the RC bug got the better of me
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Old 07-16-2002, 09:36 AM   #767
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2 fast: I was'nt calling you an idiot an apoligize if you think I was! But anybody who says Dennis can't tune an engine is an idiot!!!!!! The new Ae tank just has the lid off the new RTR RCGT10 tank on it I think. I also have talked to Cliff at AE about the tank and he also says theres no tank troubles. Just think about though if you were payrolled by AE would you let it out that there is a tank problem? I've only had the serpent tank come off once so far due to the mt. ears and it was an easy fix. The oneway also has'nt givein me any troubles yet and I have twisted 2 sets of cvds out and 1 pinion so far.
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Old 07-16-2002, 09:37 AM   #768
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
Che still working on a definitive answer to that. more time is needed but side ports seem to have less problems so far from what i hear. Temp especially. No one is building a high powered side port. I have one because the first RTU's were side ports. If you own a rear exhaust RTU just transfer the crank and head button into a side port shorten the header a half inch (make the pipe as short as possible) and you will get 97 % of the power increase. You will need to change the gearing to 22/27 50/54 with a 62 MM tire.
I will understand if you do not want to reply to this because of the nature of the question but are you saying that 97% of the benefits of running the RTUs come from the crank and head button alone (with slight modification of the pipe)? So the rest of the 3% comes from the sleeve?
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Old 07-16-2002, 09:53 AM   #769
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Initial D:

Craig and 2 fast and I all race in the same town. It is not in a "electronic" format. It is on a VHS tape right now and it is 20 min long...
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Old 07-16-2002, 12:00 PM   #770
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Quote:
Originally posted by rayhuang
I asked this on the NTC3 forum, but realize this is probably a better forum for this question. I have a STOCK spare Pipe and Manifold for the NTC3 Rear Exhaust. I am wondering how much to shorthe it for a ROAR legal 12 motor (NM SX12 RE EV1) to run on a track with long 200' back straight. I am using the copper clutch springs, but all else is stock (if that helps).
Regarding the mugen clutch springs and if I'm not wrong there are three spring tensions: 0.9, 1.0 and 1.1 milimeters. The 'cooper' springs I think that there are the 1.0mm ones.
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Old 07-16-2002, 02:51 PM   #771
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Arrow Part Numbers for Mugen clutch on NTC3

Okay-I did some digging and this is what I came up with:

Mugen Parts:
0.9 clutch springs C0753
1.1 Clutch springs C0751
MTX Fuel tank D083
White Clutch shoes C0711

And the three pin flywheel is Associated # 2325.

I hope this helps.

Ray
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Old 07-16-2002, 08:00 PM   #772
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1.1 Mugen springs on the stock 2 shoe works good like stephan did. I've been running that a while now. On the 3 show you need to shorten the trailing edge an 1/8th and trim where the spring seats against the shoes so they will fully retract. use copper springs. If you need higher engagement than that drill the 1/8th hole in each shoe.

I had no luck using the mugen shoes on the tc3 flywheel the holes in the shoes are to big and the shoes to wide they drag the bell all over and were inconsistant because the hole in them was to big.
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Old 07-16-2002, 08:03 PM   #773
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Last edited by Motorman; 03-08-2003 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 07-16-2002, 08:17 PM   #774
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Default Clutch springs

Motorman,

Will the Mugen copper spring engage higher or lower RPM than the Associated Copper springs?

Thanks,
Ray
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Old 07-16-2002, 08:20 PM   #775
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Last edited by Motorman; 03-08-2003 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 07-17-2002, 12:01 AM   #776
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Post Pinch?

I have a question for you Motorman, I was racing this weekend and my friend brought out his RB X-12 5-port. I was looking it over profusely and noticed something that sparked a bit of debate. It has just as much compression as my Jp mt12 but it has alot more pinch than mine does. It just has more metal to metal resistiance at TDC than my JP. Even though his is a 5-port my reworked JP had him everywhere on the track but I was wondering what the benifit is of the added pinch? I could see how it would allow less blow-by but wouldn't it hurt revs? Thanks.
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Old 07-17-2002, 06:07 AM   #777
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Dennis, thanks for your reply. I raced RC boats out of Indianapolis for 24 years. Was a club member with Marty and John. They pursued the flywheel dyno project after seeing my Fantom for electric motors. My relationship with them was on/off and I never figured out why. But John did relate to me one day after showing him my RB Concepts Worlds98 3.5cc sleeve that all those extra ports didn't make any difference. I agree that it wasn't a big deal in the boats, as you have mentioned. Interesting that you say it helps mid-range power. Thanks again for your reply.
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Old 07-17-2002, 11:07 AM   #778
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Hi Dennis,

Have a quick question for you.. I have a collari 3 port
(standard plug) I also have a Nova Rossi rear port turbo.

because turbo plugs are outlawed here, I have had to switch buttons (TURBO TO NON TURBO) anyway the hobby shop was out of the nova rossi buttons.. I had my collari apart and figured I would see if the picco button would fit, and it did.. it looks exactly the same but I figured I would check with you ... Is it the same??

The engine runs great, but I just wanted to check and make sure that it will work..

Also how many head shims do you recomend for 25% byrons fuel??

Currently I am using 2 copper and the standard silver. ( that worked great on 30% byrons, should I change anything,when going down in nitro content?


thanks in advance..

Thanks in advance..
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Old 07-17-2002, 04:39 PM   #779
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I posted this on the NTC3 forum, but I decided to post it here also so Dennis can make a comment about it.

I've been reading a lot lately in how to make the NTC3 work, I installed two new engines (os.12 TR and MT12) and both stall always at the same spot on the track (getting into the longest straight when full throttle is applyed). Well I am suspecting the clucht slips too much an overheats the engine, but also the theory about the rear exhaust boiling the fuel might be correct, have any of you guys tryed insulating the rear part of the tank and the fuel line? Maybe with some kind of Aluminum foil? what do you think about it?
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Old 07-17-2002, 05:15 PM   #780
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Or what about wrapping the manifold and pipe with the 3M insulating wrap, like used in the airplanes? That will bring some of the heat off the tank and fuel/pressure lines.

Dennis, my turbo button head (from my short rod RS12) was 3mm thick. My button head from my non-turbo (long rod) MT12 was only 1.5mm thick, but same diamter. However, I couldn't get a good fit ... I would need a 1.5mm shim, not a 0.3mm one. The cooling heads unders (where the button goes) were identical.

So my LHS got in a new Hard Core Mutant Head (non-turbo plug) for the Nove Rossi 12's. These are designed to be a one piece unit (cooling and button head in one piece). So I put a 0.3mm shim under it and it fit on my RS12T perfectly.

I have read the mutant heads work well cooling the temps.
Have you played with, tested or seen them? I am looking for feedback on the heads (both good and bad).

Also, I was cleaning my stock AE RE manifold and pipe and wondered something... since the manifold fits into the lip of the pipe, would there be any benefit in JB Welding or silicone a seal between the two, essentially making a solid one piece unit? They are basically doing this with the new in-line pipes, using 3 springs intead of a rubber coupling..

Thanks in advance,
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