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Motorman 07-15-2002 06:27 PM

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JLMG1971 07-15-2002 07:21 PM

Sorry for posting this again, don't mean to flood the forum but I please need and answer and some advice



Need Help
Does anyone know if AE has released the new tank? I am having lots of problems with my NTC3. I have purchased the car with a OS.12 TR more than 3 months ago, and haven't been able to finish a qualifier yet, much less a main, the problem is the engine keeps stalling, I figured the OS was the problem so I got a MT12, well after break in the engine does the same, it stalls. I have tryed diffefent settings, rich, lean, leaner, richer both needles, I even played with the middle range needle formthe MT12, etc.. and all the gurus from my club have tryed to help me but no improvement. The engine (both) always stall in the same spot, right after taking into the longest straight, when I hit full throttle, and eventually when taking a tight U-turn. It seems to get lean and stall. Two engines doing the same thing (both new) seems very uncommon. I though the gas tank had a leak so I replaced it with a new one, no luck, I have lenghtened and shortened the pressure line, did also the pressure fitting modification on the top of the lid but nothing, still the same problem. My hunch is the gas tank desing, any ideas?

Also, can anyone post the 3 needles factory settings for the MT-12, I have so much leaned and richened it that I don't know anymore where to start back again. Your answer will be very much appreciated.

Craig 07-15-2002 07:27 PM

Well it could be boiling.That would answer why the side exhaust doesn't seem to have problems.But to get a vapor lock you would have to low fuel pressure.And I believe thats not a problem right? But what if the fuel going in was close to the boiling point and upon enter the crank boiled.What would happen then? Try finding some higher oil fuel.Try something with 20% oil.That would help a little on cooling.How about the three shoe clutch? Does that slip? Personally I feel that its alittle too grabby.It doesnt seem to let the motor rev.It felt like it was bogging down a little.But it might help.

Dennis-Did you have a one way in the your car? They could cause a sheared front drive pinion.Usually it just breaks the Alum.CVDs,but if you have replaced them with steel ones I could see that as a possiblity.The Rulon bushing is designed to absorb some of the shock,but I think it needs to be oiled to allow that to happen.I know they don't say to but its just one of those feelings.
Also I think the car could use a solid carbon rod instead of the alum. driveshaft.It would provide a little bit of give.The video was taken my a guy that went with 2Fast.I see if he can convert it to a file and send it to you if you want.

Craig 07-15-2002 07:31 PM

Which way does you fuel nipple on the carb point? I personally used 1.5 turn out on the lowend with the mid range flush with the body and the high around 2.5 to 3 turn out.That should get you in the ballpark,but someone else may have a better answer.

Motorman 07-15-2002 07:48 PM

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HiperRBx12 07-15-2002 08:08 PM

In December of this yearYokomo is releasing there new shaft driven car to replace the gt4 in Japan. Then 6 months after it is supposed to hit USA and Europe.

mike_Webb 07-15-2002 08:12 PM

Dennis-

You are able to run the mugen tank dry with a rear exhaust engine or with a side exhaust engine?

Thanks

Mike Webb

dg8one 07-15-2002 08:24 PM

motorman
 
hey dennis its nelly just let you know that my phone is connected again so just let me know if my motor is done.
can i use mc59 on you're motor or should i stick with mc9?

Craig 07-15-2002 09:20 PM

Dennis-What did you have to do to the three shoe clutch? I need it to not engage so hard.

kansasracer 07-15-2002 09:36 PM

Dennis:

Forward me your mail address and I'll send you a copy of the main.. I taped it for 2 fast cause I was "2slow" to be in that main...:cool:

I'll do it for a favor to be named later (kinda my godfather impression!!!):sneaky:

InitialD 07-16-2002 12:45 AM


Originally posted by kansasracer
Dennis:

Forward me your mail address and I'll send you a copy of the main.. I taped it for 2 fast cause I was "2slow" to be in that main...:cool:

I'll do it for a favor to be named later (kinda my godfather impression!!!):sneaky:

Hi kansasracer, if you don't mind, could you put it up on some website that those who would be interested can download it? I'm sure I am:nod: Thanks.

stefan 07-16-2002 03:27 AM

Dennis
 
I just put the Mugen clutch shoes and springs on my TC3 three shoe flywheel.
The only thing you need to do is dremel a second slot in the flywheel nut for the springs.
Otherwise, perfect match

davidl 07-16-2002 03:54 AM

Dennis, how well did you know Marty and John?

kansasracer 07-16-2002 06:29 AM

InitialD:

The video is in super 8 format right now. I don't have the computer hardware to load it up to a internet site. I would donate a copy of it to someone who has that capability (as long as they make it public...)

Anyone?

rayhuang 07-16-2002 08:08 AM

Part numbers!!!
 
If you guys have handy tha part numbers for the Mugen clutch shoes, Mugen Clutch springs and the Mugen Tank, I'd like it. I am trying to get some parts from a buddy who has raced his Mugen for years, but may need to order them from LHS!!!

I asked this on the NTC3 forum, but realize this is probably a better forum for this question. I have a STOCK spare Pipe and Manifold for the NTC3 Rear Exhaust. I am wondering how much to shorthe it for a ROAR legal 12 motor (NM SX12 RE EV1) to run on a track with long 200' back straight. I am using the copper clutch springs, but all else is stock (if that helps).

Thanks Mike and gang,
Ray


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