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Old 07-12-2002, 11:07 PM   #721
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Old 07-12-2002, 11:40 PM   #722
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Dam i think that he just told some one to shut the buck up ditch
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Old 07-12-2002, 11:50 PM   #723
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Craig... the fact that you are having no fuel problems has been noted...please dont post anymore about it... I hate to have to read about how great the stock tank is AGAIN... I am one of the unlucky ones who is having problems and I hope dennis posts anything he finds out about a cure... thanks
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Old 07-13-2002, 12:02 AM   #724
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Dennis,

I know i don't have a Richey Performance Motor or a Nitro TC3, but i am a friend of AMG Racer and would like some assistance on the following question about some engines?

My question is:

How does the Collari's XS12 compare to either a stock MT12 or say a JP RS12 and then to your RTU MT12?

I look forward to hearing your response.

Cheers,

H-O
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Old 07-13-2002, 01:09 AM   #725
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Richie-Nobody was saying that YOU didnt know how to tune a motor.I believe you can and do quite often.Some people think that if your having problems that the tank is defective.But the point is that the tanks are fine,maybe its something else.Have you tried putting a fuel filter in the pressure line? How about using a oneway check valve? Two stroke motors aren't rocket science and there has to be a reason that your motor doesn''t work in the NTC3.Putting the mugen tank in is a patch fix for something else thats going on.People I see that are having problems have a few things wrong.First they have the tank too tight.I put two orings under the tank.It allows the tank to float more.Second they are two rich or too lean and that causes the motor to have high frequency vibrations.Which in turns causes the fuel to swirl because the motor is inline with the tank.Has anybody tried balancing the flywheel? I'll bet you that they are off. The same thing happens to RC helicopters.If the motor is rich or clutch is out of balance the fuel in the tank does crazy things.It can even start foaming.

Try this: install the stock tank bolting it solid to the car.Start the motor and let it idle sitting on the ground.What does the fuel look like in the tank.If it starts dancing around inside,then there is a balance problem.If not then its something else going with the motor.It may be "fourstroking".Who knows this stuff isnt that hard to figure out.
P.S. Just for a FMI. What way does everyones fuel nipple on the carb point?

I would be happy to tune a boat with three motors,except they turn the wrong for oval racing...............
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Old 07-13-2002, 06:37 AM   #726
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My tank was even missing the filter stone inside, so it stopped picking up fuel when the tank was still 1/3rd full...
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Old 07-13-2002, 04:32 PM   #727
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Craig
In case you didnt know... this thread is"Richey Modified motors" that means we ask Dennis questions about his motors or motor questions in general.... people who think they know more than Dennis should start their own thread to help out others who are not as gifted as yourself.

Last edited by ottoman; 07-13-2002 at 04:39 PM.
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Old 07-13-2002, 08:50 PM   #728
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well at nats a i saw a lot of well expierienced racers.. biting there nails and tearing out there hair chasing the fuel engine tune problem and all of there casr worked just fine on there home track...... most cars will never see pressure like that track could pull out of the car... engines spinning that fast and that long down a back stretch,, only to lock the brakes, turn a hairpin and lock the hammer right back again.. this type of track agravates minor problems into being major problems..... that is were this came in..... so yea alot of people are not having any issues and alot of people who were haveing problems at nats had plenty of chassie and motor time on the car with no previouse problems.....


in this sport people like dennis ar very hard to come by, someone who is willing to give you a part if you need it, help you tune your motor or fix it( even if he did not make it), and is willing to let all of us know all of the secret little things that seperate us from the factory guys whipping our butts.... thsi way we atleast are all on equall playing grounds........ i personnaly thank you for giving us a superior product in the rtu, and sharing what you find as problems, and how you found to best resolve the problem.... not that i will always agree though

thanks andrew mowery
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Old 07-15-2002, 05:27 AM   #729
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Default TC3 clutch

Dennis,

what are your thoughts on the tC3 clutch and it's reliability?
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Old 07-15-2002, 05:39 AM   #730
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Hey, Dennis
Do you build side exhaust motor to the same spec as the rear?
All this talk about the tanks is confusing, but I think the one's that are not having a problem are running side exhaust motors.
The pipe that assoc makes for the rear builds so much pressure that it's causes the fuel to boil in the trank causing the cars to run hot. Or I did take to headers and welded them together so I could run a stock mega pipe but I seem to have lost bottom end.
What do you think?
Tracy Lipscomb in Atlanta.
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Old 07-15-2002, 06:36 AM   #731
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Default Dennis: Chamber for a JP Novarrossi .12

Dennis:

I've bought a JP Novarrosi some weeks ago, and I'm in the need of changing the head for a non-turbo (stupid and dumb rule, AFAIK) if I plan to use on sanctioned racing.

Well, my LHS sold me a non turbo head from Mega, saying that's the same as novarrosi uses. My question is: What height of chamber should I use for this non-turbo head? The manual of the engine states that for the turbo head uses a 0.1mm shim but none about 1/4" UNF plugs heads.

The plugs I use are Nova 5 & 6 1/4" versions (but in the plug states clearly Novarrosi). So there should be Novarrosi ones.

I'm at 16% nitro, for that matters.
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 07-15-2002, 07:07 AM   #732
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Old 07-15-2002, 07:12 AM   #733
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Default Dennis Richey

How my question!
2nd from the bottom about the side exhaust?
Tracy L.
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Old 07-15-2002, 07:29 AM   #734
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Quote:
Originally posted by Motorman
use a .3 MM on the non turbo head that will put you at .018 thousanths english head clearance.
Thankyou very much for the advice. When you decide to do some motors, let us know, for sure that the engines, fly quick.
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Old 07-15-2002, 07:59 AM   #735
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I have the same issue as Corse-R.

I have a button head from an MT12 that I tried to put on my RS12T (TS1), but the button head from the MT12 is almost 1.5mm thinner that the turbo button head.

I notice the sleeve (chamber) on my turbo is flush and the turbo button head sits flat onto the top of the case. The sleeve on my MT12 has a lip (or collar) that sits about 2mm higher (above the case) and the non-turbo button head sits on this.

I am not exactly sure of the answer given to Corse-R.
Do I put the button head from the MT-12 directly on the case and then put a head shim on top of the button head, in between the button and the cooling head, or does it go under the button head to replicate the sleeve on my MT12? If so what size shim do I require?

If this is the case, what about clearance between the plug and the piston? Should I run my non-turbo plug (MC9 or OS8) with or without a plug shim?

Sorry if this is repeated, but I just want to make sure I get it right.

Thanks for your patience,

Che
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