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Old 01-15-2003, 02:10 AM   #1
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Mugen Syntec clutch

Hi all ,,when ajusting the spring tension on the mugen syntec clutch ,do you measure from the top of the engine nut down to the top of the spring ajusting nut? whats recommended or factory recommened gap?? thanks
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Old 01-15-2003, 03:06 AM   #2
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OK last one....

The measurement you described really has no relevance. There are a lot of variables...what car...which spring...new clutch shoes??? Generally speaking...you should have approx. 1-2mm of threads exposed at the flywheel nut after the spring retainer is threaded on. That's a starting point, you must fine tune at the track. Turning the adjustment nut thru the access hole clockwise 1/4 at a time for a later engagement and vise versa. Pay attention to the end float. This measurement should fall between .3 to .8mm. So shim accordingly. Lastly.. there should be some clearance between the clutch shoe and clutch bell, especially if this is a new clutch. Oh... and keep an eye on the thrust bearing...on a 12, they last pretty long, on a 21, there is not a grease on earth..... Well...just have some spares. After a couple of tries, all this will be second nature. So hang in there.
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Old 01-15-2003, 03:45 PM   #3
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This is my experiences with my mugen clutch.

Build it per the manual. I set the end float gap at NO MORE than .5mm. Try for around .3mm

The gap from the top of the flywheel nut to the adjuster nut works best at around 1.1 to 1.8mm depending on track conditions. Set it at around 1mm as per the instructions and tune from there.

I abuse the heck out of my thrust bearing and I have not even lubed it for months. It is still kicking This is obviously not recommended

Last edited by AMGRacer; 01-15-2003 at 04:58 PM.
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Old 01-15-2003, 04:56 PM   #4
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Really i gotta know, what do you guys do for maintenance on your Centaxes? I'm thinking about getting one....
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Old 01-15-2003, 06:57 PM   #5
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Default Re: Mugen Syntec clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by aussiedanny
Hi all ,,when ajusting the spring tension on the mugen syntec clutch ,do you measure from the top of the engine nut down to the top of the spring ajusting nut? whats recommended or factory recommened gap?? thanks
What a coincidence I just explained this exact thing to a guy from our club when i set his clutch up for him

You can measure from the top of the crank, but it is more accurate to measure from the top of the clutch nut to the adjusting nut. Factory for the .12 is between .6 and .9 (from memory), i ran about 1 to 1.2 on my Rossi.

Try setting at around .6 and screw in at .1mm at a time and note the difference.

Having said that the way Rob Reade sets up his clutch (well how he told me anyway, was set it flush then screw down 2? turns). And thats the Father/Mechanic of the Aussie Champion.

DC
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Old 01-15-2003, 10:47 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally posted by skibum989
Really i gotta know, what do you guys do for maintenance on your Centaxes? I'm thinking about getting one....
Besides removing any dirt and excess oil around the shoes, the internals are pretty much maintenance free.

The thrust bearing needs to be greased every meet or they fail (and there not cheap!)
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Old 01-16-2003, 08:33 AM   #7
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Default llube???

????? I lubed mine twice last year once before the states and once before the nats, i sold it with the car in december. still have the new spare one in packet. Thereee basically mtnce free clutches.
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Old 01-20-2003, 05:46 AM   #8
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Default Re: llube???

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Originally posted by kickass
????? I lubed mine twice last year once before the states and once before the nats, i sold it with the car in december. still have the new spare one in packet. Thereee basically mtnce free clutches.
Like a previous said, on a .12 can hold some punishment and maybe low maintenance, but on a .21, there's no grease on earth... (well, since I started to apply Ron Paris green grease, thrust bearings last more time) previously was a nightmare, high traction track and twisty and muych possibly you fry 2 or 3 bearings during a race (qual + finals).
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Old 01-20-2003, 06:00 AM   #9
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I say go with trial and error..... I generally run about .8mm
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Old 01-20-2003, 10:40 AM   #10
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Default trust bearing

i got a question.
when installing the trust bearing, which side of the bearing (Front-ball protrude out from body/ Back-concealed by the body) should face outward (i.e towards the cap screw)?
any difference?
thanks.....
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Old 01-20-2003, 10:56 AM   #11
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This bearing does not have rotation, but a good common practice is swap each tanks the side of bearing for wearing the captured ball plate evenly. And keep it lubed with a good grease, is a expensive bearing.
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Old 01-20-2003, 07:29 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally posted by Corse-R
This bearing does not have rotation, but a good common practice is swap each tanks the side of bearing for wearing the captured ball plate evenly. And keep it lubed with a good grease, is a expensive bearing.
yea...that's what i thought initially...but when i flipped the trust bearing in a view to keep the wear evenly, and as soon as i tightened the cap screw, the clutch bell doesnt spin like b4.
So, i had to flip back the trust bearing and it (clutch bell) spin freely like b4. Any idea why this happened?
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