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Old 02-04-2003, 08:25 PM   #76
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
If shaftdrive was the best way then why aren't all 1:8th cars using it. Simple. Belts can withstand the strains of the higher powered engines better and that is fact.

The same could be said about belt drive cars in real life. If belt drive were the answer, why are all modern cars shaft drive??? Not here for an argument, I just thought you stumbled upon a paradox.
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Old 02-04-2003, 08:28 PM   #77
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I guess it is just one of those crazy things in life.
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Old 02-04-2003, 11:38 PM   #78
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Regardless of what other manufacturers bring out the likes of Serpent, Mugen and a couple of other makes will not bring out a shaft drive car as their leading product. If shaftdrive was the best way then why aren't all 1:8th cars using it. Simple. Belts can withstand the strains of the higher powered engines better and that is fact.

Shaft drive is just a cheap alternative to get more newcomers into the hobby.
So why don't you find a single 1/8th off-road buggy that is using a belt?

Simple, belts pick up crap and don't handle the power as well as a shaft (in 1/8th buggies, it's two shafts).

Shafts don't stretch, split, lose the teeth, get all fuzzy. At worst they may bend (hasn't yet) or break (hasn't yet) and, trust me, replacing the shaft on this car is easier than replacing the belts on my GT4 or bud's MTX2 and 3 are (except for the long belt. . .but even that one is close)

Belt drive is just a cheap alternative to innovating and pushing the envelope.

Back at ya Mod! (all due respect and a big grin on my face!)
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Old 02-05-2003, 12:01 AM   #79
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Wow.

Boomer, 1/8 buggy don't use belts because it's just that...off road. There's no way to use belts on a 1/8 buggy because it has to be sealed so rocks and dirt don't kill them. On the 1/10 scale it is easy to use belts because the chassis is a composite chassis and not a al. one like nitro cars.

Both cars are GREAT, it's all about the driver thats driving the cars!
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Old 02-05-2003, 12:24 AM   #80
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Quote:
Originally posted by Boomer
So why don't you find a single 1/8th off-road buggy that is using a belt?

Simple, belts pick up crap and don't handle the power as well as a shaft (in 1/8th buggies, it's two shafts).
Ummm, we should all drive off road buggies then... We bought the wrong cars running on a wrong track and we're in the wrong onroad forum...
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Old 02-05-2003, 02:12 AM   #81
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Quote:
Originally posted by popsracer
Brett; Team Driver for Performance Hobbies

Hey,

I'm just passing along some information given to me by RACERS (not street bashers) who have had experience with the Car (TC3).
I personally avoided the TC3 just because of previous bad experiences with ball diffs. Now a Car comes along (LD3) with ALL of the design benefits of the TC3 and Gear Diffs and Beefier suspension parts. What's not to like about it?
well for starters i am not a street basher, i have been racing sence i was 8 and i am now 16 and i do own and race a ntc3

also i wouldnt have been as nce in the PM if i had of read this post first

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Old 02-05-2003, 02:41 AM   #82
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The NTC3 diff DO lose their adjustment over time and also during a race. The diff slipper pad compresses slightly all the time and it also slips easier when the diff lube thins out from the heat thus making the diff settings looser than it was initially. When that happens, the diff will slip more and flatspot the balls which makes for a rough diff action.

BTW, this happens to children AND adults.
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Old 02-05-2003, 02:51 AM   #83
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anything is goign to lose its adjustments over time

well a gear diff will lose its settings too after a while when its diff lubs thins out also

dont see how u r gunna flat spot your diff balls if its all set propper
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Old 02-05-2003, 03:00 AM   #84
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Ball diffs get rough all the time. Most of the time it's the thrust balls but diff balls do get flatspotted too especially when you run a looser diff setting for a tight track.
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Old 02-05-2003, 03:06 AM   #85
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its all part and parcel of maintenance



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Old 02-05-2003, 03:09 AM   #86
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During a 45 min. main?
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Old 02-05-2003, 03:13 AM   #87
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the question is have u blocked the holes that are on your upper diff cases that let any old bit of dirt and dust in there the screw ya over ???

if all your internals stay clean it will last for u
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Old 02-05-2003, 03:21 AM   #88
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The choice between differentials is usually determined by comfort and preference. If you like ball diffs or have come from electric touring (or something similar) and are more familiar with the upkeep and performance factors of them, then use them when possible. If you are like me, and accustomed to nitro cars (with exceptions of course) equipped with gear diffs, then it is likely that you would prefer gear diffs.

I've always been told that gear diffs are better for nitro touring cars, but that time has passed, and now that we can use ball diffs, if you think they will work out better- use them by all means.

This has become the debate of whether or not ball diffs or gear diffs are better. Unfortunately for us who have made up our mind on which we prefer, others are yelling about which they 'know' is better.

The fact that OFNA is offering a car that is like a ntc3 with gear diffs (and other assorted changes) means we have more options...more power to the people I say.
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Old 02-05-2003, 07:25 AM   #89
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I think both ball and gear diffs have their advantages and disadvantanges.

With the ball diff you have more adjustability and it is a lot lighter which is good for racing. But the disadvantage id that they are harder to maintain and can slip far to easy under heavy corner acceleration.

With a gear diff the diff is easier maintained and will hold up better under heavy acceleration but you pay the price by having rotating breeze blocks in your car.

Just my unbiased 2 cents. I like both for different situations depending on the track.

As for the belt/shaft thing Boomer. Off-Road buggies dont have the same forces exerted on them as highly tuned on-road cars. I know because I have raced both 1:8th on-road and 1:8th off-road. The Off-Road also needs to be sealed like Initial D mentioned but the main fact is that with all the jumps and bumps the belts would get thrown off.
With On-Road you shouldn't have this problem and belts can withstand the strain of a proper high power racing engine.

If you look at the market, most companies that produce shaft drive cars are aiming at the street basher who need an easy maintained car. Only Associated are trying to produce a shaft drive thoroughbred race car. The companies that use belts are aiming directly at the upper racing end of the market. They are not worried about the streetbasher completely and are thinking that these cars will be raced mainly on prepped asphalt circuits.
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Old 02-05-2003, 03:39 PM   #90
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Quote:
Originally posted by Bryan N.
Wow.

Boomer, 1/8 buggy don't use belts because it's just that...off road. There's no way to use belts on a 1/8 buggy because it has to be sealed so rocks and dirt don't kill them. On the 1/10 scale it is easy to use belts because the chassis is a composite chassis and not a al. one like nitro cars.

Both cars are GREAT, it's all about the driver thats driving the cars!
Ummm, we're talking about nitro cars here. Nitro cars use al. chassis'.

Nitro cars have a lot of oil and dirt and sometimes rocks get in them because we have to run outside (although I've heard of indoor tracks. . .) just like the off-road guys. Most off-road tracks around here don't have much bigger rocks in them than you would find around the edges of an on-road track (like Rev). . . I pick up little rocks all the time in my spur and pinion gears - I used to pick them up in the belts of my GT-4.

The conditions of an 1/8th buggy are harder than we get (off-road is harder on drivetrains which is why 1/10th uses slippers and we don't), but the point remains - we use a shaft just like the hardest class on drive-trains do. If a shaft won't hold up, why do they use TWO of them? (and they can seal a drive-train. so why don't they do it?)
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