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Old 01-15-2003, 01:36 AM   #31
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Ammdrew - glad to hear you are a top 30 runner in America. But over here I'm a top 3 runner in my country. I have been working with overdrive for 15 years (when BMT brought out the first solid axle 4WD car with overdrive option).

I am arguing with you that overdrive is bad on faster flowing tracks. I just disagree with your overall concept of overdrive. You say that overdrive is used to get a level drive between the front and rear wheels. This defeats the purpose and negates the name.

Overdrive is used to get the front wheels driving faster than the rear. This does the two things mentioned earlier. It helps pull a car around a corner which is were the lap times are made and it helps keep the tire wear aas close as possible between the front and rear tires.

As for Salven, Burch and others. Why would they tell you how they use overdrive properly. Wouldn't that just take away the racing advantage they have? I learned over my 15yrs Top European Flight that you dont rely on anyone in the top 10 to help you out. They always withold something to keep a racing age. Same goes for Rody and the top engine tuners. What they sell you wont be there best. They keep that for themselves.

I have been helping a lot of guys out on the Yokomo forum. Why? Because I dont care about advantages. If I cant beat you fair then I either go and practise more or I stop racing. Simple.

Jonathan - True, you do want the body lower but I think you must have a 5mm lip around the front edge of the bodyshell to act like a air dam.
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Old 01-15-2003, 01:58 AM   #32
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Quote:
Originally posted by modellor
Ammdrew - glad to hear you are a top 30 runner in America. But over here I'm a top 3 runner in my country. I have been working with overdrive for 15 years (when BMT brought out the first solid axle 4WD car with overdrive option).

I am arguing with you that overdrive is bad on faster flowing tracks. I just disagree with your overall concept of overdrive. You say that overdrive is used to get a level drive between the front and rear wheels. This defeats the purpose and negates the name.

Overdrive is used to get the front wheels driving faster than the rear. This does the two things mentioned earlier. It helps pull a car around a corner which is were the lap times are made and it helps keep the tire wear aas close as possible between the front and rear tires.

As for Salven, Burch and others. Why would they tell you how they use overdrive properly. Wouldn't that just take away the racing advantage they have? I learned over my 15yrs Top European Flight that you dont rely on anyone in the top 10 to help you out. They always withold something to keep a racing age. Same goes for Rody and the top engine tuners. What they sell you wont be there best. They keep that for themselves.

I have been helping a lot of guys out on the Yokomo forum. Why? Because I dont care about advantages. If I cant beat you fair then I either go and practise more or I stop racing. Simple.
modellor,

You can find out Ralph Burch's setup on mytsn. It's no secret. Yes, its the setup of the car that gives the driver an edge but ultimately, the driver's skills play an important part.

It all boils down to preferance and driving style. Some like it with overdrive, some like it underdrive and some like it just at 1:1. Explanation of what it does is all here. Whatever it is, it's the lap times around the track that tells the truth.

Anyway, it doesn't matter how many years of experience or what position you are in your country. You can be the top driver in my country for all I care but you can be nowhere to be seen in the map of the world.

It's all relative. Not that I doubt anybody's capability but I've seen people who say that they've been playing for 7 years competitively and yet it only takes another newbie a year to achieve what the other guy had to do in 7.

Andrew is the top 30 drivers at the world meet. That says a lot for a privateer. Hope all is in good faith and most important thing in RC is to have fun Cheers
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Old 01-15-2003, 02:10 AM   #33
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Modeller

Forgive me bro...but I find several statements you've made to be...silly (for the lack of a better word, I'm not attacking you...seriously...) You mention if you can't beat someone fairly, you would quit racing...yet you claim to be top 3...so aren't 2 guys or.. girls are beating you??? Have you stopped racing???

BTW...I chose the term "air dam" again cuz I couldn't think of a better word. Anyhow...take a look at Osaka's car and tell me how many mm of air dam or lip or nose whatever is left...
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Old 01-15-2003, 02:25 AM   #34
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Thats cool Jonathan.

I hear what your saying. I should have worded it better. I meant that if I was getting beat on a constant basis. I know I cant win every race but If I ever get to the stage I know I cant win at all I will stop and concentrate on having my son take my place.

Was Osaka not racing a 1:8th car? I am not 100% sure on the exact rules but I thought their had to be a minimum height for the bottom cut line of a shell in 200mm.
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Old 01-15-2003, 02:32 AM   #35
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Mo

I'm glad you not taking the fun out of this. Yes...I was referring to his MRX 3. As far as min. cut lines...I've only come across that restriction on certain local carpet track where a min. ride ht. (incl. body) must be kept to avoid tearing on the Ozite. but...that's electric...
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Old 01-15-2003, 04:54 AM   #36
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Hey Ammdrew,

I owe you an apology.

I have been just reading through the posts again and in one of posts it appears like I am slating your driving ability. At no time did I mean to do this and if I had realised at the time I wouldn't have posted it.

I guess we all have our vices and we all have our different opinions on things. Thats what makes us all human.

The important thing is that we all enjoy the hobby regardless of what level we race at.
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Old 01-15-2003, 04:56 AM   #37
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In a 1/8 car overdrive is a big factor. If you have a final drive bigger than 1,0 your car is a FWD. that means that your drive train will take wery much punishment. usually the ideal is to be betveen 0,98 to 1.

Also the 200mm was a World cup not a WC. Not many drivers besides from Us did race.
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Old 01-15-2003, 12:04 PM   #38
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take it for what it is worth, i have only relayed facts that i have gotten racing..

i do not realy care about how you feel about my opinions and or racing ability, just trying to help out....

i do not plan on seeing much in the factor of overdriving at ft myers in three week .... i know i won't,

the best way to look at overdrive is the truing the extra mm of tire for rear/front wear ratios.........

for some people driving style and tracks, a overdriven car definatly suits them , but if they are planning on racing at the top of the class, it is not the usuall option to go fast......

it is kind of like tunning the steering out of the car with the radio servo throw, instead of tunnign the suspension, yes int he main it is too latye to fix it and that is a viable tool, but in practise and quals you are better off fixxing the setup, and keep the ability to drive a second line.....

no offense ever taken....
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Old 01-15-2003, 01:30 PM   #39
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What Modellor forgot to say is that Ireland uk is only small comared to the USA and there are only four racers

Only joking M8
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Old 01-15-2003, 01:54 PM   #40
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Nice one Cartman.

Glad someone is trying to turn this into a bit of a laugh.
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Old 01-15-2003, 03:32 PM   #41
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jonathan
I could be wrong, but I was under the impression that running the front lower was to allow better fitment of the lola type bodies. This allows the front to be slammed and the air dam to be trimmed completely, thus yeilding the least amount of drag. (aerodynamically).
Huh? I am talking about tire diameter not body height. You will find that 65mm tires easily fits under a 200mm lola body.
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Old 01-15-2003, 03:35 PM   #42
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jonathan
This is simply good tire wear management.. Basically, if you start with 1mm smaller and end with 1mm smaller in the rear, you would have the least amount of deviation from the optimum ratio which may or may not be 1 to 1.

I personally don't consider this type of tuning to be true overdrive. Severe overdive by means of a huge split or pulley maybe easier to drive in some instances, but always carry the penalty of severe drag.
You are doing an awful lot of guessing here. I was actually at the track with these guys and they specifically were saying that they true the tires 1mm less on the front to give better handling. This was for a 5 minute heat.

Instead of arguing whats best or not lets just accept that some people like it and others do not. Like I have said it worked great for me, and I am 672nd in the country.
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Old 01-15-2003, 05:26 PM   #43
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nice post AMG. I think you summed it up. Who cares what the factory racers do they are on an entirely different level anyway, if you've experimented with it and it works for you then so be it. If it doesn't then so be it. But it does make a difference whether you're doing it for handling or for wear rate issues over long mains so it's something worth fooling around with (if you have the time )
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Old 01-15-2003, 11:02 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally posted by patelladragger
nice post AMG. I think you summed it up. Who cares what the factory racers do they are on an entirely different level anyway, if you've experimented with it and it works for you then so be it. If it doesn't then so be it. But it does make a difference whether you're doing it for handling or for wear rate issues over long mains so it's something worth fooling around with (if you have the time )
Exactly!

Shoot, I tried to drive a friend's car a while ago - he's HUGE faster than I am (yeah, grammar. . .) so I thought to drive his car to see what a very fast driver drove. . . Man, I couldn't control the thing to save my LIFE!!! Went back to my car (both were GT-4s at the time) and drove fast with it. . .
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Old 01-16-2003, 12:03 AM   #45
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Quote:
Originally posted by AMGRacer
Huh? I am talking about tire diameter not body height. You will find that 65mm tires easily fits under a 200mm lola body.
Out of respect for you, I will let this one slide...
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