Mugen MRX-4R
#1216
No worries, Feroz. Just clowning around with you. Mugen is a great brand and I am waiting until the fall to get a 1/8 myself. If there is a new one in the pipeline, I would be interested in hearing about it as well.
#1217
no hard feelings dude.a friend of mugen is friend of mine stay stress free=ride a 1/8
#1218
allmod RV01
has anybody used this body?how does it go?
#1221
Tech Adept
feroz - no flame were intended. Just see too many people think that the latest car/hopup/whatever will make them faster automatically.
Who makes that body? Looks a lot like a heavily moded Dome body.
Who makes that body? Looks a lot like a heavily moded Dome body.
#1222
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
#1223
for example,when converted my 4 into a R,i did it slowly to c the difference.trust me,it did.like changing the front and rear bulkheads,u are able to adjust the tension on the belts.when changing to H0474 chassis plate,the motor ran slightly warmer due to there being no cut-outs under the engine....and so on and so on..
so not because i think it will make me faster,it just improves the car on a whole.that is how i could c the small differences cheers dude,keep on riding
as for the body,will be getting 1 in about 2 weeks time.will keep u updated on how well it goes.
#1224
what u put in is what u get outjust my opinion.
I would like to come out to the states and Canada one day just to see how ure tracks look and maybe even race there just once....
oneday
#1226
Never... but... pay attention to the image attached. Comes from the MTX4 manual, but on the MRX you could be suffering the same problem.
Remove the balls marked in red and swap the grub screws for one of 3x8mm. If the 2nd gear clutch support is scored, change it for a brand new one.
Remove the balls marked in red and swap the grub screws for one of 3x8mm. If the 2nd gear clutch support is scored, change it for a brand new one.
#1227
Tech Elite
iTrader: (36)
Yes And no . Due to the power your dealing with it is very important to pay attention to mesh between rounds. Be anal about checking it before the main. I ripped all the teeth off of first gear at Kissimme becuase I was busy with another issue and neglected to check my mesh for four rounds of qualifying. As far as the two speed, what Course-R said and you always want to run the shoes as close as possible to the housing. You may not be able to "feel" or see it shift but your greatly reducing the shock of the shift. What gear are you stripping?
#1228
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (18)
Yes And no . Due to the power your dealing with it is very important to pay attention to mesh between rounds. Be anal about checking it before the main. I ripped all the teeth off of first gear at Kissimme becuase I was busy with another issue and neglected to check my mesh for four rounds of qualifying. As far as the two speed, what Course-R said and you always want to run the shoes as close as possible to the housing. You may not be able to "feel" or see it shift but your greatly reducing the shock of the shift. What gear are you stripping?
#1229
I started stripping the first gear recently. I practiced an entire day on the same gears, then all of the sudden I started stripping them. I thought it was my pinion gears, but my friend borrowed my engine, pinions included and he did not strip. I did notice my rear shaft was moving, so I tightened it down to where it would not move at all, but I still stripped.
play(side2side)to reduce the play,i took a std glowplug washer and used it as a shim behind the pin that holds the shaft in place(behind the 2spd shoes)always make sure your meshing is 100% accurate.they must not be too tight and at the same time not too loose.spin them freely to check.make sure ure engine mount screws thread is not worn(top and bottom)just my opinion.use it,dont use it,i could be wrong..trust me,i stripped 3 sets of spurs in 1 day and finished a 15 minute final with only a first gear
cheers buddy.
#1230
eagle
has anybody used the new R9 eagle from JP?if so,how does it go?just curious thanx in advance