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Old 03-06-2008, 05:35 PM   #1426
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Ok the T0154 (original from the MTX4/MRX4R) and the H0188 are eccentrics right but whats the difference?
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Old 03-06-2008, 05:46 PM   #1427
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The O.D. of the eccentric is larger to maintain the height difference of the adjustment. This allows for a greater bearing off set in the eccentric.
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Old 03-07-2008, 09:54 AM   #1428
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Originally Posted by MugenDrew View Post
H0148B Front Bulk Head
H0188 Eccentric Hub
H0515 Front Spring (Yellow)
H0560 Front Damper Stay
Here's the Deal; The new bulk heads give you the option to adjust the height or distance from the bottom of the chassis to the center line of the front one way or rear spool. Which ever one is lower will have more traction.
The "new front damper stay" will stand the front shocks up making them a little bit stiffer, harder etc. There by giving up some of this traction that can be gained by lowering the front one way and at the same time make the car a little more responsive.
The yellow spring is stiffer than a gray and softer than a white.
Hope this helps...


Thanks.
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Old 03-09-2008, 09:54 PM   #1429
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Default Wanted: MRX4-R spare parts / rollers

Wanted: MRX4-R spare parts / rollers

This is posted in the Wanted section, but thought I'd throw a link here.

http://rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=211284

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Old 03-10-2008, 04:38 AM   #1430
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what roller do you want particular?
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Old 03-11-2008, 03:44 AM   #1431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by scott74dog View Post
Thanks for the information. Is this common for the oneway bearings to wear out this quick?
What lube are you using?

Using greases like "Ronnie" grease or Mugen Super grease on a oneway will cause it to slip from time to time because they are too slippery. The rollers will tend to slip on the shaft rather than gripping it. Try to use BALL diff grease like Associated's "Stealth" diff lube or a grease intended for oneways like the one from Serpent.
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:02 AM   #1432
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oops, accidental post
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:08 AM   #1433
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Here is a section of old Tech area from our old site but it still good.

One-way bearings "The care and feeding of one ways."
A one way bearing is a amazing device. If you ever have a bad one don't toss it out until you have an opportunity to do autopsy. You will find needle bearings housed in a steel housing with the needles seated in a nylon race. It's really not like a bearing and race though as the nylon part is bonded to the steel housing. The real work horse in the one way is the thin curved strip of steel placed next to each roller. When the driven shaft (tight tolerance) rotates past the needle in one direction no problem but try to go the other way and the unit will jam and the driven shaft and the one way will operate as one. The one way requires several key points to work correctly:
1) tight tolerances
2) good lubrication.
3) A clean environment.
The tolerances are really up to the factory but when wear becomes noticeable on the driven shaft or adaptor the one way's can fail.
Good lubrication is easy. Just enough oil to wet the one way's but not enough to attract dirt. As for what oil to use, I have had good luck with mineral oil. In 1999 Serpent introduced SER 1680 one-way lubricate to correct a high failure rate on their one-ways. I have to admit that this stuff really works and it is now all that I use. More on chemicals later.
As for the clean environment if dust and dirt are kept off of the outside of the one way and its components this is a good start. If you clean your car off with compressed air try not to blow the dirt into the one ways or bearings but rather away from them.
Chemicals: The easiest way to kill a one way is to damage the tolerances. If an oil or cleaner swells the nylon even a little the first thing you will notice is some parasitical drag on the one way or if enough damage occurs you can have slippage or complete lock-up. I learned this by cleaning out my one way's with electric motor spray a number of years ago and then not being able to refit them to the drive axles until the swelling went down. The one ways never worked quite as well and ultimately requires replacement. For this reason I clean my one way's by flushing them out with more of what ever oil I'm using (Serpent or Xray One way lube). I'm not suggesting that this is the only right way to do things only that it works for me.
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Old 03-11-2008, 06:19 AM   #1434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rpoage View Post
Here is a section of old Tech area from our old site but it still good.

One-way bearings "The care and feeding of one ways."
A one way bearing is a amazing device. If you ever have a bad one don't toss it out until you have an opportunity to do autopsy. You will find needle bearings housed in a steel housing with the needles seated in a nylon race. It's really not like a bearing and race though as the nylon part is bonded to the steel housing. The real work horse in the one way is the thin curved strip of steel placed next to each roller. When the driven shaft (tight tolerance) rotates past the needle in one direction no problem but try to go the other way and the unit will jam and the driven shaft and the one way will operate as one. The one way requires several key points to work correctly:
1) tight tolerances
2) good lubrication.
3) A clean environment.
The tolerances are really up to the factory but when wear becomes noticeable on the driven shaft or adaptor the one way's can fail.
Good lubrication is easy. Just enough oil to wet the one way's but not enough to attract dirt. As for what oil to use, I have had good luck with mineral oil. In 1999 Serpent introduced SER 1680 one-way lubricate to correct a high failure rate on their one-ways. I have to admit that this stuff really works and it is now all that I use. More on chemicals later.
As for the clean environment if dust and dirt are kept off of the outside of the one way and its components this is a good start. If you clean your car off with compressed air try not to blow the dirt into the one ways or bearings but rather away from them.
Chemicals: The easiest way to kill a one way is to damage the tolerances. If an oil or cleaner swells the nylon even a little the first thing you will notice is some parasitical drag on the one way or if enough damage occurs you can have slippage or complete lock-up. I learned this by cleaning out my one way's with electric motor spray a number of years ago and then not being able to refit them to the drive axles until the swelling went down. The one ways never worked quite as well and ultimately requires replacement. For this reason I clean my one way's by flushing them out with more of what ever oil I'm using (Serpent or Xray One way lube). I'm not suggesting that this is the only right way to do things only that it works for me.
Yep, good stuff...
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Old 03-28-2008, 10:56 AM   #1435
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Default Help with tires

I just bought a set of twister tires online that are suppose to be for the mrx4, but when I got them the rear tires won't fit. So I did some investigating and found out that the width of the rear tires are 1mm wider compared to the ones I had on. I'm guessing maybe these were for the Serpents or can I have a 1mm offset to make them work? Please help thanks,.
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Old 03-31-2008, 07:48 PM   #1436
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I just opened a box of the Twister tires and it snapped right on. Same as any other 1/8th tire I have for the car.
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Old 04-01-2008, 01:02 PM   #1437
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Originally Posted by scott74dog View Post
I cleaned the inside of the oneway and it worked great for about 5 minutes. accasionally it would not engage and overrev. It doesn't always slip but it does about 5 percent of the time.

I had the same problem. My oneway would engage erratically. I replaced it and no change. What I found is my 1st speed one-way housing had too much side to side play. A one way bearing will not engage if it is allowed to move laterally across the shaft(side to side). I had to re-align my entire rear drive shaft so when the e-clip is place on the shaft there is very little room left for the 1st speed housing to move lateraly. I hope you understand what I'm trying to say.

Race you later
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Old 04-01-2008, 01:20 PM   #1438
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Install the drive pin in the shaft, install the transmission and snap the e-clip in place. Install the assembly; through the bulkhead bearing, disc brake, rear brake adaptor and the other bulkhead bearing. Put a little bit of loctite on the set screw for the side belt pulley adaptor. Have the flat spot for the setscrew facing up. Use a piece of note book paper on the flat spot between the lip on the adaptor and the inner race of the bearing to set the end-play for the shaft. Tighten the set screw. Loctite the set screw for the brake pulley. Both of the flat spots are on the same plain, so if one is up so is the other. Tighten the brake pulley set screw until it just touches. Now back it off a hair. Turn the shaft back and forth to make sure your on the flat spot. Push it towards the transmission and tighten the set screw. This insures that the belt will run as free as possible.
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Last edited by MugenDrew; 04-01-2008 at 04:27 PM.
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Old 04-01-2008, 02:16 PM   #1439
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Originally Posted by lil-bump View Post
I had the same problem. My oneway would engage erratically. I replaced it and no change.
Race you later
A good rule of thumb, if you replace the 1st gear housing(one way), replace the 2 speed adapter(H0257) as well. This part is usually wears out first and ruins the needle bearings of the one-way.
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Old 04-10-2008, 03:21 PM   #1440
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Default MRX 4r > 4x upgrade kit?

Looking for the upgrade kit to take the Mugen MRX 4r to 4x specs. Please drop me a line if you (or a shop you know of) has one of these available.

I know my chances are slim...but giving it a shot

regards-
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