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Old 08-23-2007, 12:12 PM   #1321
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what about the serpent #9373 for the rear belt? LHS has some, but we're not sure if it'll fit. Anyone?
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:12 AM   #1322
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Hi there!

Im struggling a bit with the theory of roll center adjustments with our solid rear axle cars.

Ive learned from this board and by experience that going with the rear lower wishbone blocks from 5.5 to 4.5 will give the car more steering. This will definitely lower the roll center. If I lower the rc on a differential equiped tourer, the car will loose steering. So the solid axle car is reacting contrarian to the tourer. Why?
And: I read in a posting by Swauger that going to longer upper arms will give more sidebite. But longer arms will lower the rc like going to 4.5 with the lower arms. This is where my confusion starts...

Could anyone shed some light on this? Thanks
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:27 AM   #1323
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Originally Posted by fulcrum2 View Post
Hi there!

Im struggling a bit with the theory of roll center adjustments with our solid rear axle cars.

Ive learned from this board and by experience that going with the rear lower wishbone blocks from 5.5 to 4.5 will give the car more steering. This will definitely lower the roll center. If I lower the rc on a differential equiped tourer, the car will loose steering. So the solid axle car is reacting contrarian to the tourer. Why?
And: I read in a posting by Swauger that going to longer upper arms will give more sidebite. But longer arms will lower the rc like going to 4.5 with the lower arms. This is where my confusion starts...

Could anyone shed some light on this? Thanks
I feel your pain. I had many late nights trying to get an understanding of the RC adjustments but everything seems to be the opposite. I run the 4.5 all the time and my rotates very well but that is the lower roll center in which case the rear should roll more, creating more rear traction right............wrong. I gave up trying to figure it out, I just change the car and see what it does. If it's faster I leave it, if not I change it back and try something else.
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:31 AM   #1324
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The 4.5 don't make it roll more. It makes it slide more on the power. That's what make it rotate better. It would roll better with the 5.5 or 6.5. That's what I have noticed.
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:36 AM   #1325
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the 6.5 isn't there anymore, it was already not the best choice in the past models. It was always 4.5 or 5.5 and now they have a middle setting: 5.0
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Old 08-24-2007, 11:37 AM   #1326
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Roelof View Post
the 6.5 isn't there anymore, it was already not the best choice in the past models. It was always 4.5 or 5.5 and now they have a middle setting: 5.0
I know.
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Old 08-24-2007, 12:14 PM   #1327
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Thanks for sharing my pain quietstorm
Same thing here. Ive spent many hours trying to understand it...
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Old 08-24-2007, 03:54 PM   #1328
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Like Pooh stated the 4.5 slides more and rotate a lot. I know a couple of guys that don't like the 4.5 and I don't like the 5.5 because for me I have to use too much throttle to make the car rotate. It gets mid corner and starts to push. Just my opinion and experience.
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Old 08-24-2007, 06:34 PM   #1329
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Yeah it is probabley the most frustrating setting on the car. I listened, read and used my set-up guages to measure camber gain. All of the answers I found and advise I recieved became VERY fuzzy once the car was on track. At the hight of frustration I used an open practice day at the Fort. Set the car to kit stock (except for camber) and ran it with all three of the rear blocks. Remember corner entery, mid corner , corner exit and this is further disected by on and off throttle. Looked at the lapp times and made notes in the back of the Hudy book. Another day I did the same with the front. I like 4.5 in the rear and 1.5 spacers as a start in the front. Play with the car...
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Old 08-24-2007, 10:07 PM   #1330
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quietstorm76 View Post
Like Pooh stated the 4.5 slides more and rotate a lot. I know a couple of guys that don't like the 4.5 and I don't like the 5.5 because for me I have to use too much throttle to make the car rotate. It gets mid corner and starts to push. Just my opinion and experience.
I also settled with 6.5 rear susp. block, because 5.5 still has some " push " on mid cornering.

BTW, 4.5, 5.5, 6.5 are setup & track dependent...... no perfect answers.
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Old 09-02-2007, 10:15 AM   #1331
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Is there a rear Universal for MRX4? will the one from mrx3 fit? H0296? Thanks

Has anyone tried it? I have them on my mrx3 works edition. the car is a little smoother with rear universal.
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Old 09-02-2007, 10:20 AM   #1332
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Originally Posted by straightaway View Post
Is there a rear Universal for MRX4? will the one from mrx3 fit? H0296? Thanks

Has anyone tried it? I have them on my mrx3 works edition. the car is a little smoother with rear universal.
Yes there r universals 4 the Mrx4. The 1's on the 3 won't fit.
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Old 09-02-2007, 10:36 AM   #1333
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what is the part number? Can I just buy the bone part of the uni to convert it to fit mrx 4? Thanks
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Old 09-02-2007, 10:43 AM   #1334
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I found it.


http://www.abusedrc.com/viewtopic.php?t=328

Thanks
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Old 09-02-2007, 10:45 AM   #1335
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From the Mugens WEB site: http://www.mugenseiki.com/menueefi.htm

Under new products.

H0296 Rear Universal Joint Set
H0297 Rear Drive Shaft (For Universal)


Can be used for MRX-4X and MRX-4R & MRX4

Last edited by Nitro-mech; 09-02-2007 at 01:02 PM.
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