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Old 08-13-2007, 09:17 PM   #1306
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Cool and thanks guys. I raced for the first time yesterday but didn't get any practice time. I qualified 11th out of 17 racers. Not bad for my first time I thought. Man! What fun!! And I placed 2nd in the B main race by the end of the day. The car was excellent, it had a bit of push off power going in the corners but I got some of it out by the main race. Best part was I didn't tear up my car like many other drivers did. I tried to make finishing the most important thing over going fast. The fastest guys on the track turned 14.xx second laps and I turned a handful of 16's and a ton of 17's. I did better than I thought I would. The car is pretty easy to drive once I got used to it a little bit.

The next race in two weeks is down in Ft Myers FL where the Winternats are held. I went there twice to watch a few years ago and really wish I had a bit more track time before I race near the metal "boards" Bang! Clang! or whatever you want to call the horrific noise the cars make when they smack the metal. I may get to go to Kissimmee next weekend for a practice day (I hope) apparently the track is huge. I had some of the best fun driving the 1/8 on road in a real long time.

I am very lucky and old oval racing friend is now one of the top Florida 1/8 drivers and he is taking time to teach me on setup, engines etc specific to on road. I can't wait to race again!
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Old 08-15-2007, 11:40 PM   #1307
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Default front wide belt conversion

Anyone tried the front wide belt conversion? Who makes it? Thanks
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:18 AM   #1308
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Me and about 4 racers at my club run them and they work great. No more stripping front belts.
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Old 08-16-2007, 12:30 AM   #1309
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who makes them? and where can I get it? Thanks.
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Old 08-16-2007, 06:52 AM   #1310
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Racers Choice makes one. Out of Austin I think. Might order extra pulleys for it though. No problems, just for regular change outs and such. It lets me only order two belts instead of three. Never stripped a front belt, but you still have to watch out for debris. You might also consider notching out the bulkhead and/or the servo saver steering post. Tighter tolerences now. But I like the conversion.
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Old 08-18-2007, 11:34 AM   #1311
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Man, what a bummer. It's the weekend and no racing for me

Anyway I'm looking to pickup a durometer. I had a Max Mod and a Longacre but sold them for lack of use in off road. It appears the Max Mod unit has a large (1/8") or so "pin" that pushes into the rubber and others on the market including the longacre have much smaller pins (like a pencil lead). Is there a "best" unit to have or are all "A" type durometers comparable?

Thanks
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Old 08-18-2007, 12:00 PM   #1312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JASON MAC View Post
Me and about 4 racers at my club run them and they work great. No more stripping front belts.

I made a kind of a belt tensioner on top of the 16t pulley. In this way the belt will get a better fit arround the pulley and will take a tooth more for more grip:

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Old 08-18-2007, 12:27 PM   #1313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by woodman View Post
Man, what a bummer. It's the weekend and no racing for me

Anyway I'm looking to pickup a durometer. I had a Max Mod and a Longacre but sold them for lack of use in off road. It appears the Max Mod unit has a large (1/8") or so "pin" that pushes into the rubber and others on the market including the longacre have much smaller pins (like a pencil lead). Is there a "best" unit to have or are all "A" type durometers comparable?

Thanks
As far I know, durometers in shore 'A' isn't the ones used here.... some time ago Jack Rimer, the owner of Jaco told that the ones to use were the Asker 'C', but the MaxMod is enough to anyone not involved on the foam biz.. Look at this thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...22#post3173422
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Old 08-18-2007, 01:14 PM   #1314
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This post from Jack is regarding electric foams, but describes the two durometers:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...7&postcount=86

This one is also interesting:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...7&postcount=88

Actually, the whole thread is kinda interesting...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...=175950&page=3
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Old 08-19-2007, 09:48 AM   #1315
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You guys rock, this forum is great for getting to the top of the answer list fast

Thanks much, I'll go read those threads now.
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Old 08-19-2007, 09:57 AM   #1316
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R View Post
As far I know, durometers in shore 'A' isn't the ones used here.... some time ago Jack Rimer, the owner of Jaco told that the ones to use were the Asker 'C', but the MaxMod is enough to anyone not involved on the foam biz.. Look at this thread:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...22#post3173422
The MaxMod is very good! I got mine from Superior Hobbies in FL. They were kind enough to test a few sets of 35's and a few sets of 37's while I was on the phone. They said it was quite accurate- and I have experienced the same results. Only downside it that it does not have a recall dial, so you have to observe the max reading by eye and not with the recall dial. I figure I saved $400 going with the MaxMod.
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Old 08-20-2007, 12:14 PM   #1317
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Default Coversion set h0080

Mugen Conversion h0080 on stock now


http://www.the-border.com/product.ph...2&cat=0&page=1
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Old 08-23-2007, 08:11 AM   #1318
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So I am getting my car ready for the Vegas Nats in 2 weeks and I was wondering if people are still running the H0139-B Hubs on their MRX-4R kits. I know my "R" kit did not have them but I am currently running them.

Are people also using the optional chassis from Mugen (H0474) instead of the stock version?

Does anyone have the part number for the Serpent rear and side belt(s) that fits the Mugen. I have the front belt # already.

Thanks.
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Old 08-23-2007, 09:03 AM   #1319
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Quote:
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Does anyone have the part number for the Serpent rear and side belt(s) that fits the Mugen. I have the front belt # already.

Thanks.

The Serpent rear belt that fits the Mugen is the one from the Serpent Excel, the sidebelt can be used from the Vector which I believe is still the same on the 950/960
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Old 08-23-2007, 10:29 AM   #1320
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Serpent belts are Rear #9340 & side #6364. Rears can be a little tricky to get sometimes.
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