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Old 05-29-2007, 12:14 PM   #1156
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spillertwo
Nitro junkie,
Put the bearing in which slot ? The only hole available is where the screw is to secure the roll bar.
You can not pull the upper belt under the tensioner because it creates way to much tension that way. The belt tensioner hammer is about level with the under part of the belt
As I said , throw a brick to M Mod.

It's BS
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:37 PM   #1157
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Nitro Junkie is the man
This is how i mounted it now and it seems to work.
Can't run the top belt under the bearings because that way it is way to tight even if you move the bearings all the way up on the hammer opening of the tensioner.
What do you think ?




And just to think I thought I would be rid of the bearings with this solution
But as long as we can figure out how it is supposed to work together I am already much happier now
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:42 PM   #1158
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Your almost there now adjust/slide the bearing so its up higher on the slot then try and get the top belt under.
The slots are there so you can fine tune the tension you want if you cant cause the back nut is hiting the back of the tensioner use nylon threaded nut and smaller screw if that hits as well the hammer should still move up and down
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Last edited by Nitro$junkie; 05-29-2007 at 01:00 PM.
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Old 05-29-2007, 12:48 PM   #1159
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The top belt has to go under other wise the belt is gonna rub on the madifold when you install it try it with a stretched old belt.
The spring on the hammer will most likly loosen up a bit after a few runs and the hammer it self will sit a little higher
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Old 05-29-2007, 06:18 PM   #1160
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What was wrong with the stock tensioner?
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Old 05-29-2007, 11:28 PM   #1161
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spillertwo
Nitro Junkie is the man
This is how i mounted it now and it seems to work.
Can't run the top belt under the bearings because that way it is way to tight even if you move the bearings all the way up on the hammer opening of the tensioner.
What do you think ?




And just to think I thought I would be rid of the bearings with this solution
But as long as we can figure out how it is supposed to work together I am already much happier now

Yeah........ you almost there. You need a liltle shock damper to minimise high frequency vibration from the belt. Maybe 30W damping oil will do the job.
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Old 05-30-2007, 03:42 AM   #1162
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So did you get it???

Quote:
Originally Posted by Spillertwo
Nitro Junkie is the man
This is how i mounted it now and it seems to work.
Can't run the top belt under the bearings because that way it is way to tight even if you move the bearings all the way up on the hammer opening of the tensioner.
What do you think ?




And just to think I thought I would be rid of the bearings with this solution
But as long as we can figure out how it is supposed to work together I am already much happier now
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Old 05-30-2007, 06:35 AM   #1163
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Final result and it seems to work.
It tightens up the belt quite a bit but the car still
feels good when you turn the wheels.
So thanks everybody for the great help



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Old 05-30-2007, 09:04 AM   #1164
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Spillertwo
Final result and it seems to work.
It tightens up the belt quite a bit but the car still
feels good when you turn the wheels.
So thanks everybody for the great help



Ahhh.... much better.

Now put on your engine and see how close the belt to under side of manifold.
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Old 05-30-2007, 02:16 PM   #1165
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Is not a problem with the engine manifold. I can still put my little finger between the belt and the manifold. More than enough room.
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Old 05-31-2007, 01:40 PM   #1166
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Is the idea of that upgrade that the spring automatically keeps the belt optimally tight as the belt gradually stretches, so that you do not have to alter the standard tensioner manually ?

I guess its good to be in the RC bling manufacturing business...
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Old 05-31-2007, 02:19 PM   #1167
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Yes I think that is the idea behind it. I do think that it makes the belt quite tight for the moment. I wilt test it this weekend if it works properly.
One added advantage is that you can use the one peace engine mount with this tensioner and you can remove it without removing the tensioner.

It works however different than I had expected because I thought I would lose the bearing with it because they can wear out. It turns out however that you have to use them anyway. Maybe nice if Mugen could include some more explanation and fotographs with their products. I am a Mugen fan for sure but sometimes they don't look all that good when you compare it to Serpent. For that brand you can find and download all the info that you want on the internet.
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Old 06-04-2007, 05:00 AM   #1168
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I am looking for some advice on bodies. I am currently using a Blitz body, the 273mm wide one. Does anybody have any experience with this body, and are there any better ones out there?
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Old 06-04-2007, 06:59 AM   #1169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer View Post
I am looking for some advice on bodies. I am currently using a Blitz body, the 273mm wide one. Does anybody have any experience with this body, and are there any better ones out there?
I just run a Protoform T530..seems to work fine.. Going to try out the new Shadow though when it becomes available..
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Old 06-04-2007, 08:25 AM   #1170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer View Post
I am looking for some advice on bodies. I am currently using a Blitz body, the 273mm wide one. Does anybody have any experience with this body, and are there any better ones out there?
I use Parma Audi R10 is just great...
T530 makes my car a little bit loose on the rear end coming out of the turns.
I hear that Kawahara is great too, but I haven't tryied yet.
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