asw7576

Hey, that's good idea

TedX

This track is just minutes away from the Nation's Capital

RC Pro Series two-day race entry form
Can be submitted at the track on race day.

Capital Classic June 6th-10th
Factory drivers already registered. 160 max. entries. Don't miss this one!

Fred P

I second what Moy said, can't go wrong with the MTX3, 4 reciever covers.

moy

iTrader: (4)

very nice track right there!! is that the 301?
what do you guys paint you track to make it black?

moy

iTrader: (4)

tnx..it looks better

serpentpro28

Guys i need the rear bearing size for Jp fx21 R-03?
Thanks in advance'

munrath

iTrader: (4)

Yes, that is the 301 track. We are very lucky to have such an awesome track.

Mark

madlosi79

Does anyone know of a blade rear swaybar for the MRX-4R?
Thanks.

Lil Paul

Mugen makes one. I wish I had the part number for you. I used it, but went back to the stock setup. With the blade, even at its stiffest setting it seemed like it was not enough. I would talk to racers that use it at your local track, and get their feedback.

wario69

Here you go -- it is the same one for the 3/4/4R. You might want to search for a cheaper price though. Part# MUG H0185

http://ashfordhobby.com/detail.aspx?ID=1407


-- Wario

madlosi79

Thanks for the help guys, Thats what i was looking for.

TedX

It's actually not paint at all. It's such a great grade of asphalt that it just shows up that way. It's not my track (I just race there) so i'm not bragging on it, but it's a great track.

I think the contrast with the blue infield paint probably helps!

feroz

hey mugen lovers.got a small problem with my car.at our last club race,i found that the car was intermatently over-revving.2 3rds down our main straight,the car would rev higher than usual for a second or so.my clutch gaps were right.it was so strange.my mates also could not understand why.could it be that the 1way bearing is going?please help!!!!

cdelong

iTrader: (12)

check the two speed shoes and the two speed gear hub they engage on. I clean my two speed shoes with scotchbrite pads between race weeks to remove the aluminum build-up on them. check the hub and shoes inside for grooves around the circumference and on the inside surface. do not over-oil those flanged bearings in there. that will get on the shoes/hub and cause slippage.

make sure that the balls in the shoes are tight enough (the set screws on the top and bottom- not the tensioning screws on the sides) and that there is not a lot of play on the hub they mount on. you should just be able to barely move that hub between the shoes.

make sure all your pulley hubs are tight on the shafts as well. sometimes if they loosen they will slip a bit and cause problems like you say. i had the brake hub loosen on the rear shaft and then "weld" itself back in place from the heat.

feroz

thanx for the info.will check on it rite away.