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Old 04-10-2007, 12:52 AM   #1036
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Originally Posted by 3,2,1,..GO!
which plug #6 or #7????
7 Check Nitrohouse they have them
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Old 04-10-2007, 12:54 AM   #1037
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Pooh I have family in Long Beach Island N.J what tracks are in the surrounding area? Where do you run in NY?
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:22 AM   #1038
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Originally Posted by PROVK
Hi

I ran my MRX-R for the first time on the weekend, car handles very well, all went well apart from a mangled thrust bearing and clutch shoe.
I had by clutch set as per book, what happened?.
I have been racing 1/10 for years and have never stuffed a thrust bearing or shoe.
Any advice for me please??
Thanks
hey bud.did u check ure clutch spacing?had a similar problem with my clutch.my clutch gaps were way out even though it seemed rite to me.also have ure thrust bearing well greased.those .21's can really put strain on those thrust bearings.
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:27 AM   #1039
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I had it at 1mm and .5mm end play.
Was it the stuffed thrust bearing that killed my shoe.
How many litres/gallons are you guys getting per shoe and thrust bearing.
I am using the kit yellow shoe.
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:43 AM   #1040
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[QUOTE=PROVK]I had it at 1mm and .5mm end play.
Was it the stuffed thrust bearing that killed my shoe.
How many litres/gallons are you guys getting per shoe and thrust bearing.
I am using the kit yellow shoe.[/QUOTE
Switch to the black and change it every other run if you race. If not the yellow will last about 10 runs or so. Also get the super hard spring, and ream out your fly weights 4mm this will add some more snap To check your clutch hold the car on it's side and hold the flywheel, then apply pressure to the clutch bell and turn it, if you feel the bell is rubbing the clutch shoe it needs to be shimmed. Repeat until the bell feels smooth. You only shim the thrust bearing for play .5 is what you want. Did you grease the thrust bearing? I'm sure you did.
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:43 AM   #1041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROVK
I had it at 1mm and .5mm end play.
Was it the stuffed thrust bearing that killed my shoe.
How many litres/gallons are you guys getting per shoe and thrust bearing.
I am using the kit yellow shoe.
Switch to the black and change it every other run if you race. If not the yellow will last about 10 runs or so. Also get the super hard spring, and ream out your fly weights 4mm this will add some more snap To check your clutch hold the car on it's side and hold the flywheel, then apply pressure to the clutch bell and turn it, if you feel the bell is rubbing the clutch shoe it needs to be shimmed. Repeat until the bell feels smooth. You only shim the thrust bearing for play .5 is what you want. Did you grease the thrust bearing? I'm sure you did.
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Old 04-10-2007, 01:48 AM   #1042
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROVK
I had it at 1mm and .5mm end play.
Was it the stuffed thrust bearing that killed my shoe.
How many litres/gallons are you guys getting per shoe and thrust bearing.
I am using the kit yellow shoe.
check the article on clutch setup by Mike Swauger.it is here in the nitro onroad forum.remember to grease ure thrust bearing after every 45 mins of run time.the yellow shoe lasts quite long
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Old 04-10-2007, 07:37 AM   #1043
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losing a thrust bearing most likely fried the shoe. i lube the thrust bearing with just a few small blobs of Mugen super grease about every 15 minutes of runtime- after three hot lap sessions or every other heat and definitely before any main.

i'd stick with the super-hard spring or MSR 1001 spring and the yellow shoe. the yellow shoe seems to be the best all around shoe unless you are on a track with no bite- then go to the black shoe. the grey shoe is next best after the yellow in term of a good all around shoe- at least for me.
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Old 04-10-2007, 05:12 PM   #1044
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Thanks for your input fellas.
I will lube more often, I lubed once and then did about 6 or 7 tanks with out relubing.
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Old 04-14-2007, 10:52 AM   #1045
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What's up people question,,,I just finished putting together my MRX-4R. Everything went together really well,,but my brakes seem to be veryyyy tight.
I went over the instruction manuel to make sure i did'nt miss anything. Are you suppos to sand down the pads some? I want my car to roll free with no binding. Is there anything I should look for to those of you who have built this car before. Thanks
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:04 AM   #1046
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 3,2,1,..GO!
What's up people question,,,I just finished putting together my MRX-4R. Everything went together really well,,but my brakes seem to be veryyyy tight.
I went over the instruction manuel to make sure i did'nt miss anything. Are you suppos to sand down the pads some? I want my car to roll free with no binding. Is there anything I should look for to those of you who have built this car before. Thanks
Yes, you should sand the pads slightly so the drivetrain spins freely. Depending on how you glued them down, check to see if the pads are flat against the brake plates. This can also cause binding.
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Old 04-14-2007, 11:22 AM   #1047
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Ok thanks Sohlman,,,you think run in on the track will do the trick? You not in Fl. racing with Pooh?? O yea also how are you guys attaching the engine (21 Ro1A Ninja) to the engine blocks? No matter what i do I cant get the Hex driver straight down on the bolt,,it's always at a angle because of the hex driver hitting the side of the engine. The last thing i want to do is stripe these engine bolts. Any tips,,tricks?? Why dont the just make a engine with grooves for the hex driver?
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Old 04-14-2007, 12:22 PM   #1048
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buy a ball tip driver for the engine screws, hudy is the best i have one and holding up welll
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Old 04-14-2007, 02:27 PM   #1049
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzuguy
buy a ball tip driver for the engine screws, hudy is the best i have one and holding up welll
A Hudy 2.5mm ball tip driver is a must for the Ninja


Quote:
Originally Posted by 3,2,1,..GO!
What's up people question,,,I just finished putting together my MRX-4R. Everything went together really well,,but my brakes seem to be veryyyy tight.
I went over the instruction manuel to make sure i did'nt miss anything. Are you suppos to sand down the pads some? I want my car to roll free with no binding. Is there anything I should look for to those of you who have built this car before. Thanks
The first thing dig out of my kit is the brake discs and pads. I scuff them both and use JB Weld to glue them together. Clamp them in a vice overnight between two pieces of wood. In the morning clean the guide holes out and any other areas where the JB Weld squeezed out around the pads. Scuff the pads nice and flat on a piece of glass with some 320 or 440 grit sandpaper. Measure the width of one disc and pad before gluing them- that's about what you want them to be after sanding and gluing.... maybe a tad less to free it up a little more.
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Old 04-14-2007, 03:13 PM   #1050
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What rear block is everyone using? 4.5 or the 5.5????

If you are using the 4.5 do you run on a track with lots of traction?

The guys using the 5.5, are you running on parking lot tracks?

Anyone running something weird like the 4.5 front block and the rear 5.5?
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