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Old 02-28-2007, 08:32 PM   #901
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Originally Posted by mrgsr
rear toe as per manual
5.5 block i believe the stock one
protoform t530 but ill be uisng the kawahara body this weekend as the other one was getting a bit shabby
Try the Kyosho Dome body. Mount it forward about 10mm.
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Old 03-01-2007, 02:33 PM   #902
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I need some help adjusting my mrx-4r clutch.

The clutch engages right when my car starts, I need to adjust to clutch so the car can idle without the clutch engaging. The idle adjustment isn't the problem, the engine idles at a normal level.

This mrx-4r manual isn't helping.

Thanks.
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Old 03-01-2007, 03:22 PM   #903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubcast
I need some help adjusting my mrx-4r clutch.

The clutch engages right when my car starts, I need to adjust to clutch so the car can idle without the clutch engaging. The idle adjustment isn't the problem, the engine idles at a normal level.

This mrx-4r manual isn't helping.

Thanks.
Double check and make sure there is enough gap between the Clutch Bell and the Clutch Shoe... I suggest using one of the thick washers from a Thrust Bearing Set and place it before the bearing behind the clutch bell.

The idea is to have the clutch bell spinning freely (without any bind with the clutch shoe). You may add shims after the Thick Washer as needed, in order to create a good gap.

From here, you may complete putting the rest of the clutch assembly.

Also make sure you have the correct end bell play when everything is complete. I usually maintain 0.4 mm end bell play.

Lastly, at this point you may start adjusting the Clutch Nut in order to set the right clutch engagement you prefer.

Let us know if this works.
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Old 03-01-2007, 10:49 PM   #904
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Turns out I had the clutch assembled wrong. I didn't notice that you had to thread the clutch nut onto the flywheel nut. I just dropped the spring and nut in there and didnt bother tightening it.

After finally managing to get the clutch nut onto the flywheel nut, it's working properly.
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Old 03-02-2007, 07:33 AM   #905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil Paul
not meaning to be a pain either, but Mike it would be nice if we can see some setups that are more current. Maybe something from the Nats or Winternats.
Most of the time everyone runs the stock setup with a few changes. Here is a link to the setup.

http://www.mugenseiki.co.jp/mugen/menueefi.htm

What is changed most of the time is we run the 4.5 rear block, castor(either more or less), short front wheelbase always, and use the shortest rear camber link(the one without the inserts). On the upper arm position you can add a 1mm shim and that seems to smooth out the turn in and gives the car more middle out. It seems to me it helps in sweepers and carosels. The 1st gear pinion is always 16t. I try and mess with the front swaybar but I always go back to flat. Moving the body mount arm out will give you more traction. You can also try different shock oil. In the rear stiffer gives more turn in use 600-800 and in the front for parking lot tracks I go to 500 sometimes.

On parking lot tracks where there is no sealer and sugar water for traction spray you can try grey front springs and take off the front sway bar.

The biggest improvement or handling change to me seems to be tire shore. If you don't have the correct tires all of the other stuff will not matter.

It is not a setup sheet but at least you know what is currently being run on most tracks.

Paul
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Old 03-02-2007, 08:15 AM   #906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubcast
Turns out I had the clutch assembled wrong. I didn't notice that you had to thread the clutch nut onto the flywheel nut. I just dropped the spring and nut in there and didnt bother tightening it.

After finally managing to get the clutch nut onto the flywheel nut, it's working properly.
Glad to know it's working properly dubcast... Have fun!
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:48 PM   #907
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can someone offer some help? i'm using the tweak station on the hudy system to measure track width. and the setup sheet calls for front=252mm and rear=263mm. what reading should i be getting?

i'm new to this so and any help would be great!

Thanks...
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Old 03-05-2007, 03:57 PM   #908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by racer2
can someone offer some help? i'm using the tweak station on the hudy system to measure track width. and the setup sheet calls for front=252mm and rear=263mm. what reading should i be getting?

i'm new to this so and any help would be great!

Thanks...
Easiest way to measure your track width is by using a large caliper or just line it up on the hudy board. Remember, front wheels: only adjust the bottom king pin and the rear wheels: the back king pin. The others are for camber (front) and toe (rear). And that both sides are exactly the same.
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:09 PM   #909
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Last edited by racer2; 03-05-2007 at 04:22 PM.
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:25 PM   #910
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Originally Posted by racer2
front/rear king pins? where is that located?
They also call them pillow balls. They are the large ball studs inside your front and rear uprights. They screw into the suspension arms.
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Old 03-05-2007, 04:27 PM   #911
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Originally Posted by sohlman
They also call them pillow balls. They are the large ball studs inside your front and rear uprights. They screw into the suspension arms.
ohh! okay!

Thanks for the help!
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Old 03-05-2007, 09:21 PM   #912
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Default MRX-4R kits

What's included in the latest kits out?

Last I knew the latest kits included the option chassis, new front steering blocks with the scrub settings and the option rear arm mounts.

Anything else different currently in the kits? Engine mount?
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Old 03-06-2007, 11:18 PM   #913
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This could be old news, but the lower front and rears arms are different. It seems that they moved the shock mounting hole out a little bit. The good is, Mugen is constantly trying to better car; the bad is, they need to change the part numbers when a part is changed. I have brought spares recently, and had spares that were purchased a while ago. So if you do not pay attention or someone does not tell you, there is no way of knowing with just looking at the part number.
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Old 03-06-2007, 11:21 PM   #914
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Whats the difference betweem MRX-4 uprights and MRX-4R uprights.

Thanks
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Old 03-06-2007, 11:48 PM   #915
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lil Paul
This could be old news, but the lower front and rears arms are different. It seems that they moved the shock mounting hole out a little bit. The good is, Mugen is constantly trying to better car; the bad is, they need to change the part numbers when a part is changed. I have brought spares recently, and had spares that were purchased a while ago. So if you do not pay attention or someone does not tell you, there is no way of knowing with just looking at the part number.
Paul, it says this on the box when u got it"*The contents are subject to change without notice due to
product improvements and specification changes". Part of da game baby!
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