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Old 05-23-2006, 02:50 PM   #61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKSHUN
no, ididnt even know they had them.
i have seen the rubber ones though, are they better than the originals??
I think so.
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Old 05-23-2006, 09:33 PM   #62
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Anyone try the long rea upper arm already?
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Old 05-24-2006, 09:34 AM   #63
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Anyone try the long rea upper arm already?
i think more side bite for low traction. to make it work perfect have a good combination w/ shock spring and shock oil.
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Old 05-24-2006, 01:49 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Mugen4lyf
i think more side bite for low traction. to make it work perfect have a good combination w/ shock spring and shock oil.
Hey u got pm thankz
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Old 05-25-2006, 03:28 PM   #65
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Since i got my mrx-4r i stripe my front belt 6 times already. what can i do to avoid this one pls help.
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Old 05-25-2006, 04:00 PM   #66
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Make sure both eccentric hubs are on the same settings. Don't make the belts too tight. Are you using stock plastic pulleys? If not, use them. Check both pulleys for embedded rocks or debris. Clean them thoroughly after every race. Are you using the rubber belts? They don't last as long, but free up the drivetrain considerably. High torque (modded) engines will tend to add to the wear on your belts. Also, a two-speed that shifts late will cause belt damage. Try these.
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Old 05-25-2006, 04:02 PM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad_killaH
Since i got my mrx-4r i stripe my front belt 6 times already. what can i do to avoid this one pls help.
SOHLMAN is correct make sure both sides of your eccentric belt adjusters are on th same position , I found it more likely to strip if they are not lined up exactly the same, Hope this helps
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Old 05-25-2006, 04:12 PM   #68
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mad_killaH
Since i got my mrx-4r i stripe my front belt 6 times already. what can i do to avoid this one pls help.
Also check the integrity of all the teeth on the pulleys, a slightly distorted teeth in one pulley can rip a belt. You're passing a severe horsepower thru it, change them at the slightest concern about their integrity, is better to spend some bucks on a set of pulleys than a DNF.
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Old 05-26-2006, 04:34 AM   #69
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thank you guys i really appreciate that...
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Old 05-26-2006, 03:00 PM   #70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman
High torque (modded) engines will tend to add to the wear on your belts. Also, a two-speed that shifts late will cause belt damage. Try these.
Just as a information, to make it easier and the shifting less violent, you need to make the gap between the shoes and the clutch bell smaller, the less gap, the more swift the shifting is. The larger the gap, more brutal and violent.

As Sohlman said this puts a lot of stress on the tranny.
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Old 05-27-2006, 06:28 PM   #71
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can anyone post some setup for the great lakes challenge going with my mrx4r and ninja motor for the first times need some set ups please
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Old 05-27-2006, 06:54 PM   #72
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Toledo, home of the great lakes challenge, provides plenty of traction, almost too much.
your best bet is too take the stock set-up page from the kit, and go from there.
i am going tomorrow for their club race and i will pm you when i get back to let you know a good starting point.
have you had the ninja running yet, is it any good?? what would you compare it to?? JPR03? or the novarossi 35plus21??
later
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Old 05-29-2006, 06:33 PM   #73
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Chuck Moon was running one and i would compare it to the 35plus it is just as fast
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Old 05-29-2006, 11:56 PM   #74
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mugendude
Chuck Moon was running one and i would compare it to the 35plus it is just as fast
35+21 is better.
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:03 AM   #75
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what about price, is it close to the 35plus price tag??
from what i have seen this year, the 35plus21 will be the motor to beat, there may be some that are a little faster, but nothing that runs as cool and has so much power, well, except for my C5,lol
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