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Old 01-14-2007, 10:00 AM   #661
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Default Question for Mike Swauger

Mike,
I recently read your article in X-RC magazine about your clutch tuning method for 1/10th TC. My question is, do you apply the same methodology to the 1/8th scale clutch or what do you do different? I just transitioned from TC to 1/8th. Looking forward to your reply or anyone elses who would like to put their secrets forward.
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Old 01-14-2007, 05:49 PM   #662
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i think the best starting point is the stock clutch set-up from the manual.
one thing i have found is that trying different clutch shoes(colours) will make the most notable difference and its simple to change.
i also find that the clutch nut is very important as well, not too loose and not too tight.you gotta find the sweet spot, depending on the rpm of your engine.
get your gap right and try those things first, otherwise you may end up buying new clutch parts more often than you need too.
good luck!!
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Old 01-14-2007, 06:50 PM   #663
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I also found out yesterday that a little drop of locktite on the hex bolt that holds the thrust bearing and end bell on helps . Pretty frustrating when running 2nd in the main with 4 minutes to go to have this bolt loosen off and spill all the clutch weights and shoe out on the track .
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Old 01-14-2007, 08:27 PM   #664
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Default Appreciate the input

Thanks AKSHUN,
all good info, so noted.

Azcau,
you want to be careful putting Loctite on the end bolt. Some of it could splash over into the thrust bearing and lock it up for a real mess.

Roger
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Old 01-14-2007, 08:46 PM   #665
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKSHUN
Just out of curiosity, where does everyone place the droop guage when measuring droop in the rear.
i have heard two different ways, one is to put the guage right under the center of the upright, and the other was under one of the cups, where the pivot ball goes.
there is a couple mm difference, just wanna make sure im setting up the car properly.
I check it under the cups.
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Old 01-15-2007, 05:06 AM   #666
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Point taken Woodlands , is there any reason why this might have happened ? It's definately a first for me .
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:59 AM   #667
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If you want to put loctite on the bolt into the end of the shaft, put some locktite on a spare bolt and let it dry over night. This will give you a bolt that is more like a nylock nut. I've seen pull starts come with screws like this. May solve some problems.
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Old 01-15-2007, 12:41 PM   #668
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Default Just a thought

Quote:
Originally Posted by azcau
Point taken Woodlands , is there any reason why this might have happened ? It's definately a first for me .
It may have been that the bolt was not tightened when you last greased the thrust bearing or it could be the reverse gravity down under. I would simply keep checking it before each run. My guess is that it was simply an oversight that will not likely recur due to your awareness of the situation.
Roger
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:37 PM   #669
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edited- mis-read post. see below
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:43 PM   #670
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Quote:
Originally Posted by azcau
I also found out yesterday that a little drop of locktite on the hex bolt that holds the thrust bearing and end bell on helps . Pretty frustrating when running 2nd in the main with 4 minutes to go to have this bolt loosen off and spill all the clutch weights and shoe out on the track .
NO loctite on the hex bolt that goes into the crank! The only loctite that should get near the engine is on the flywheel nut- some people may recommend the clutch spring nut although I have not found the need for it.

When you service your thrust bearing while the engine is in the car, hold the flywheel with a pair of needle nose pliers through the bottom of the chassis while you snug the hex bolt back into the crank. It will not come loose.
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Old 01-15-2007, 06:56 PM   #671
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Default How do I tell a kit is a V2 or not?

Thanks for the info.

How do I tell if the mrx4R kit I am buying is the V2?
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Old 01-15-2007, 07:10 PM   #672
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The Mugen set-up sheets numbers come from under the "cups" of the up rites. Try using your set-up tools(camber gauges). Lift the chassis in the middle and find the camber number when the tire lifts off of the set-up board. When the front is set at zero and static or resting camber is at -1.5 degs the front wheels leave the surface at 0degs camber. The rear at 9mm will leave the set-up board at zero, however we should be running with -1deg of camber in the rear. Ever notice running the car with more droop or less static camber the outside of the tire has a larger or much larger radius on its outside edge than when you put them on the car fresh off the truer? Your "burning the outside edges of the tire off". Think about sliding down the side of a mountain trying to slow your decent with your finger nails, ain't gonna happen. Lifting the tire off of the surface at zero will be when the contact patch is at its max with the minimum amount of weight on the wheel. Anything after that is scrapping for something to get just about nothing(when cornering). Straight line;front droop effects rear traction(more droop more weight transfer to the rear). Braking rear droop effects how much weight is transferred to the front, unfortunately we only have rear brakes so were kinda stuck here. Cornering; In the ideal world as we turn in off throttle the inside rear wheel would lift ever so slightly transferring all of its weight to the outside front wheel pounding it into the pavement, and as we apply throttle on exit the inside front wheel would ever so slightly lift from the surface transferring its weight to the outside rear wheel. To quote Hudy "droop is a POWERFULL way of adjusting your chassis".
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:38 PM   #673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew
The Mugen set-up sheets numbers come from under the "cups" of the up rites. Try using your set-up tools(camber gauges). Lift the chassis in the middle and find the camber number when the tire lifts off of the set-up board. When the front is set at zero and static or resting camber is at -1.5 degs the front wheels leave the surface at 0degs camber. The rear at 9mm will leave the set-up board at zero, however we should be running with -1deg of camber in the rear. Ever notice running the car with more droop or less static camber the outside of the tire has a larger or much larger radius on its outside edge than when you put them on the car fresh off the truer? Your "burning the outside edges of the tire off". Think about sliding down the side of a mountain trying to slow your decent with your finger nails, ain't gonna happen. Lifting the tire off of the surface at zero will be when the contact patch is at its max with the minimum amount of weight on the wheel. Anything after that is scrapping for something to get just about nothing(when cornering). Straight line;front droop effects rear traction(more droop more weight transfer to the rear). Braking rear droop effects how much weight is transferred to the front, unfortunately we only have rear brakes so were kinda stuck here. Cornering; In the ideal world as we turn in off throttle the inside rear wheel would lift ever so slightly transferring all of its weight to the outside front wheel pounding it into the pavement, and as we apply throttle on exit the inside front wheel would ever so slightly lift from the surface transferring its weight to the outside rear wheel. To quote Hudy "droop is a POWERFULL way of adjusting your chassis".
That's a good write up man I mis-read the post and thought Steve was asking where most people measure the ride height from.

So... front droop I understand... resting camber of 1.5deg and droop of 0mm= camber of 0deg. when tires come off the ground.... yes?

Rear- I'm not so clear.... rear droop at 9mm and camber @ -3deg..... what camber should I see when the wheels come off the ground??

Give me a few minutes and I'll tell you what I see.

Thanks man!
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Old 01-15-2007, 09:47 PM   #674
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with a rear droop of 9mm and resting camber of -3.0deg I get camber of
-1.0deg when the wheel come off the ground.

Does this sound right?
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Old 01-16-2007, 06:34 AM   #675
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Yes you got it. The rears are cut or we run the car to cut -1 deg, so for them -1=0. At this point during cornering the inside tire is done helping, so take its weight and send it somewhere that it could do some good. Rough bumpy track do what ya gotta do because you already know your going to be running through tires.
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