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Old 01-08-2007, 07:58 AM   #631
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Sohlmans right...Depending on how old your 4 is it may be better to sell the old one and buy a new kit. I had the original 4 and I changed a lot to get it to the R spec. And I still end up just buying a new kit(just wanted a new car). Here is what I found to be different. It may be more but I think this is close.

front upper arms
front lower arms
front upright
axle spacers for front upright
spaces for turnbuckles
front bulkhead
front shock tower

rear upper arms
adjustable rear hingepin holder (not quite sure what its called)
spacers for hingepin holder
rear shock tower
rear shock bodies
rear body mount
rear bulkhead
chassis (the optional one for the regular 4)
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:01 AM   #632
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Default Thanks guys

Thanks guys.

One of my mrx4 is brand new, it is so smooth that I hate to get rid of it, the other one is about 1 gal old. I also have two mrx3 works edition that I normally practice with so not much use on mrx4.

so anyone has a new 4r for good price? I seen them on ebay NIB for $400.

Last edited by straightaway; 01-08-2007 at 11:28 AM.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:07 AM   #633
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straightaway
Thanks guys.

One of my mrx4 is brand new, it is so smooth that I hate to get rid of it, the other one is about 1 gal old. I also have two mrx3 works edition that I normally practice with so not much use on mrx4.

so anyone has a new 4r for good price? I seen them on ebay for $400.
I have spare one that i have been trying to sell here.
are you going to the winternats??i can bring it with me so you can look at it.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:17 AM   #634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by straightaway
Thanks guys.

One of my mrx4 is brand new, it is so smooth that I hate to get rid of it, the other one is about 1 gal old. I also have two mrx3 works edition that I normally practice with so not much use on mrx4.

so anyone has a new 4r for good price? I seen them on ebay for $400.
I wouldn't buy much off ebay.... usually you have to spend $100 for new belts, gears, pulleys, and other consumables, etc....

Just buy AKSHUN's 4R and you'll be all dialed in- it's like new. He has a good maintenance schedule

Now if you need engines, come and see me
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:18 AM   #635
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For me the conversion was really easy and quick. The day before I converted I just tore the car down, the next was just a build and test day. The only thing I don't have is the chassis which I need for the added wieght. Total cost to convert was about $130.00 minus the chassis. I got everything from Winner's Circle. It was just cheaper for me to convert since my 4 only had 3 races on it.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:20 AM   #636
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew
Akshun I putt em on before the car hits the track, helps keep tares around the front body mount holes. Something else Ive been doing for years that works like a snake charm; Lexan radio box tape (boat and airplane guys). Put it on areas that are likely to crack and thin areas on the body and under your body brace screws or rivets. It goes on the outside of the body(its crystal clear) and wipe the areas your applying it to with denatured alcohol before you apply it. It has to be put on before the body ever gets run.
I imagine thery're also lighter than the fiber tape and shoe goo I use underneath the body. I may have to start using those Parma deals.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:21 AM   #637
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Thanks Mugendrew, i think ill put one on each of the front wheel fenders, seems to be the first place they crack for me.
i painted and mounted the first body, i used the the holes closest to the back and i still think it could be lower.
im using the short mounts in the rear, and the short mounts with two shims in the front, ride height is 6mm rear,5mm front and tire diam is 72 rear, 65front(old tires)
along the side it starts high in the rear and declines to the front.
im painting the second body, but ill leave it untrimmed.
are you going to the winternats??if so, im wondering if you could look at it and help me mount it properly, maybe theres something im overlooking.
thanks,
steve
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:30 AM   #638
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Corey, thanks for the compliment, i wish i had the meticulous motor skills that you have.
maybe its your break in (cyrul method) or the time you spend on them.
ive got an engine for ya to look at, it needs some TLC.
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Old 01-08-2007, 11:52 AM   #639
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AKSHUN
Corey, thanks for the compliment, i wish i had the meticulous motor skills that you have.
maybe its your break in (cyrul method) or the time you spend on them.
ive got an engine for ya to look at, it needs some TLC.
Which one? If it's one of those Collari's leave it home. We've struggled with those 2 years straight with no luck at all. Otherwise I'll look at it- if it's suspect at all I'll give you a "loaner" from the fleet if you need one.

I'll sell you the R-01 you ran in Hamilton (still way tight), a NIB 321P or a just broken in R-03.

Step #1- PM me if it has any pinch left with the plug removed.
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Old 01-08-2007, 02:24 PM   #640
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Akshun pull your tires off, front short mounts no spacers. With the body on hold a straight edge to the bottom of the chassis and run it around the bottom of the body. It should touch everywhere but behind the rear wheels.
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Old 01-08-2007, 10:26 PM   #641
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman
Sometimes it's easier to just sell the 4 you have and get an R. The amount of parts needed to convert is larger than you think (don't forget rear shock bodies, shafts, both shock towers, clutch shoes etc.). The work it takes to convert is almost as much as building a new R. Especially if you plan change the bulkheads. Plus, it depends on how old your 4 is. There are always "running" design improvements with all Mugen cars and parts. Most of the time they are very simple and you don't notice, but they help a lot. I know there were many with the 4 so you may never know if you have the latest stuff. jm2
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Old 01-09-2007, 01:57 AM   #642
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew
Akshun pull your tires off, front short mounts no spacers. With the body on hold a straight edge to the bottom of the chassis and run it around the bottom of the body. It should touch everywhere but behind the rear wheels.
Thanks, ill try that.
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Old 01-09-2007, 03:55 AM   #643
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Default engines.

hey guys.i think i need 2 b shot.just bought a R03 as well as a R01 stock version.(silver crank case).R03 was a full house with ceramic bearing and factory run-in.i checked on the website,R6 conrod.any views?should i get one?
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Old 01-09-2007, 11:19 AM   #644
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The R6 conrod is the lightened one with the special hardened wrist pin.
they are supposed to improve the bottom and top end.
but unless your a pro, lookin to shave off tenths of a second, then i couldnt justify the cost.
Both of those motors are excellent right out of the box, try and get the full potential out of them the way they are, then go with the new rod once you have mastered the insane power that you already have.
One of the guys on here also has those motors for sale, real cheap and if your interested i could get him to pm you.
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Old 01-10-2007, 05:49 AM   #645
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thanx for the info Akshun.also thanx 4 letting know about those that r 4sale.the next motor i buy,will b a Murnan mod motor.preferably a ninja or 35+21 with ceramic bearings.hopefully in this year.what r ure views on those motors.i checked the forum on saturday.he mailed me already
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