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Old 11-03-2006, 10:30 AM   #436
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I looked closer and see the difference in the holes now. The Servo travel is fine, full travel and equal L-R and the servo is quick its a Hitec Coreless HS-965MG - Ultra Speed.
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:13 PM   #437
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The lower arm position makes the largest change to roll center and you have it at the lowest setting(more roll =more side bite). Unless the track is garbage you should not need anymore than 1.5 degs toe in in the rear. So maybe ya got to much rear end bite. Rons sett-up is NICE, shes a happy rotator...
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Old 11-03-2006, 12:38 PM   #438
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I didnt think about the rear roll center affecting the off throttle steering so much but i guess thats quite possible since i havent tried to adjust it yet. As far as the rear toe goes im sure it is too much as the track has a lot of traction, i just was experimenting and found that the settings i stated gave me the best feel/times, but still left me with the push issue.
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Old 11-03-2006, 02:58 PM   #439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew
The lower arm position makes the largest change to roll center and you have it at the lowest setting(more roll =more side bite). Unless the track is garbage you should not need anymore than 1.5 degs toe in in the rear. So maybe ya got to much rear end bite. Rons sett-up is NICE, shes a happy rotator...
That's one of those things that amazes me from the US Tracks to tracks we run at the other side of the pond. You guys use tyres a lot harder (40 shores are usual there) and go with very small rear toe-in. I suppose that's a side effect of putting sugar and sticky things on the track.

I can hardly recall the last time I used a 40 shore the most used compound here are 35's and sometimes 37's and maybe not on all the car (maybe only a tyre or two on the outer side just to compensate tyre wear).

BTW: Revelation seems to be a small track (gearing) with some ripples (ground clearance with the tyre sizes) is that true? Why not use a shorter rear upper arm and maybe some stiffer spring (pinks) if you need a car who likes to turn, this maybe is the target, a stiff rear and maybe a soft front.
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Old 11-03-2006, 03:18 PM   #440
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www.revrace.com . My own experience with my own clutch set ups is that if toe in is higher than 1.5 the damn thing pushes bad coming out of the corner. I wish the tracks in Florida were sticky enough to run 40's...
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Old 11-03-2006, 05:36 PM   #441
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Ron,

You going to the WinterNats? What rear block should I start with at Ft. Myers- 4.5mm? I'll be looking you guy's up for some help down there.

Corey
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Old 11-05-2006, 02:48 PM   #442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron C.
Hi tunerjetta29,

Here's the MRX-4R set up we ran during the recent Kyosho Championship Race @ Revelation Raceway:

Front Suspension:

Track Width : 250 mm
Ride Height : 6 mm
Camber Angle : -2.0 mm
Toe : 0.5 mm OUT
Rebound Stop : 0.0 mm
Bump Stop : Not used
Wheel Base : Short Wheelbase Setting
Upper Arm Spacer : 2.0 mm
Upper Arm Holder Position : 1.0 mm
Sway Bar : 45 degree angle
Front Shock Oil : Mugen 600
Front Shock Spring : Mugen White
Front Shock Piston : Stock
Front Shock Position : #2

Rear Suspension:

Track Width : 262 mm
Ride Height : 7.0 mm
Camber Angle : -3.5 mm
Toe : 1.5 mm IN
Rebound Stop : 8.0 mm
Bump Stop : Not used
Upright Spacer : 2.0 mm
Rear Block : 5.5 mm
Sway Bar : Stock @2.5mm forward
Rear Upper Arm : Long Setting
Rear Body Mount : Outer position
Rear Shock Piston : Stock
Rear Shock Oil : Mugen 700
Rear Shock Spring : Mugen White
Rear Shock Position : #2

Steering Ackerman : B position

Rear Tires : GRP 40 (74.0 mm)
Front Tires : GRP 40 (67.0 mm)

Clutch Spring : MSR Spring
Clutch Pad : Gray
Clutch Cen Shoe : Light weight
Clutch Nut Position : 9.2 mm
Clutch Bell Clearance : 0.4 mm

Gearing : 1st (16/49)
2nd (20/46)

Hope this helps ...........

Alright, i ran this setup today, the only thing i did differently was i was running 45 shore F/R and i am still running the rear 4.5 blocks instead of the 5.5

The car had good turn in, but the rear was very "hoppy". Mid corner i would notice the car 3 wheeling (inside rear wheel off the ground) and the car would hop. I tried moving the ball ends further in on the rear sway to reduce the rear roll, but no luck. What would help sure this? Is it possible that switching to the rear 5.5 block will solve the hop? Any info would be appreciated!
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:13 PM   #443
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I touch my friend's front wheel hub ( where you lock the front tires )..... it's very2 hot

I guess the shims cause it.
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Old 11-05-2006, 11:28 PM   #444
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Try running the rear 263. That will help the car slide a lil more.
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Old 11-06-2006, 09:27 AM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tunerjetta29
Alright, i ran this setup today, the only thing i did differently was i was running 45 shore F/R and i am still running the rear 4.5 blocks instead of the 5.5

The car had good turn in, but the rear was very "hoppy". Mid corner i would notice the car 3 wheeling (inside rear wheel off the ground) and the car would hop. I tried moving the ball ends further in on the rear sway to reduce the rear roll, but no luck. What would help sure this? Is it possible that switching to the rear 5.5 block will solve the hop? Any info would be appreciated!
Put on the 5.5 and it should help rid the "hop".

Also double check to see nothing on the rear suspension is binding whatsoever. I typically disconnect the dampers and slowly lift the left suspension from the rear hub and observe how the right side reacts in respect to it. And Vice-Versa. From there, it should show if all points are moving Freely and Evenly or not as this could also contribute to the car hopping. But Im glad to hear you found good steering from the car now.

Was there a lot of bite when you were there, hence you used 45s?

Revelation is a fun track / facility to race at but conditions may also be a bit tricky. It's almost like constant fine tuning is needed to get optimum performance from the car. Aside from this coming weekend, let me know when you will be out at the track again and I will head out there to run with you. Let's try to get your car where you feel most comfortable and Fast around the circuit.

I'll PM you my email address so I may respond to you quicker.
See ya soon!
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Old 11-06-2006, 09:35 AM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cdelong
Ron,

You going to the WinterNats? What rear block should I start with at Ft. Myers- 4.5mm? I'll be looking you guy's up for some help down there.

Corey
Hi Corey,

We have plane tickets already

About the set up, we both gotta rely on Mikey for that.
It's all good - see you soon !
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Old 11-06-2006, 09:44 AM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron C.
Put on the 5.5 and it should help rid the "hop".

Also double check to see nothing on the rear suspension is binding whatsoever. I typically disconnect the dampers and slowly lift the left suspension from the rear hub and observe how the right side reacts in respect to it. And Vice-Versa. From there, it should show if all points are moving Freely and Evenly or not as this could also contribute to the car hopping. But Im glad to hear you found good steering from the car now.

Was there a lot of bite when you were there, hence you used 45s?

Revelation is a fun track / facility to race at but conditions may also be a bit tricky. It's almost like constant fine tuning is needed to get optimum performance from the car. Aside from this coming weekend, let me know when you will be out at the track again and I will head out there to run with you. Let's try to get your car where you feel most comfortable and Fast around the circuit.

I'll PM you my email address so I may respond to you quicker.
See ya soon!
Thanks for the info. The track was very grippy which is why i went with 45's. A lot of people have told me they never drop below 40 anymore at Revelation, and that 45 is normal as well. Ill try the 5.5 rear blocks and see if it helps. If it doesnt i may throw the stiffer springs back on the rear to see if i cant get it to slide more smoothly. I did check and I know the rear isnt binding, I went through the whole car last weekend and made sure that everything was functioning properly. Thanks for the info, an it would be great to see you at the races!
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:15 AM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Pooh2
Try running the rear 263. That will help the car slide a lil more.
What is ( rear 263)?
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Old 11-06-2006, 10:18 AM   #449
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
What is ( rear 263)?
Rear track width in millimeters.
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Old 11-19-2006, 05:05 PM   #450
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Hey guys I'm currently running an MRX4 standard and I have no complaints. I was wondering if it's worth converting to an 'R'. All the parts will cost about a 100 bucks or so.

My question is how will the handling be effected if I use the regular chassis with the conversion? Any opions will be appreciated.
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