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Old 10-14-2006, 08:13 AM   #391
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dubcast
I don't know how that happened. I got a messed up bulkhead, and a set of old uprights in a new kit bag. Everything else seems to be correct.
Sometimes shit happens, and more meanwhile the transition time on the factory for new parts (running changes) on their models. On mine MTX-4 came with 3 different front pulleys (and two different belts) and other cars came only with two pulleys and one belt.

Ignore people trying to do some cheap jokes with your problem, give a call to your Mugen distributor, told to them and for sure you'll get the parts in the mail.
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Old 10-14-2006, 02:04 PM   #392
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By any chance does anyone know approximately how long (mm) the rear ant-roll bar links should be when using the blade type rear sway bar? The manual says approx 40.5mm for the stock wire sway bar. 40.5mm seems to be a bit short when using the the blade sway bar. Thanks
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Old 10-14-2006, 02:40 PM   #393
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Originally Posted by nsupra
By any chance does anyone know approximately how long (mm) the rear ant-roll bar links should be when using the blade type rear sway bar? The manual says approx 40.5mm for the stock wire sway bar. 40.5mm seems to be a bit short when using the the blade sway bar. Thanks
Hello

I use the blade roll bar on the rear and my links are 57mm from end to end.

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Old 10-14-2006, 11:55 PM   #394
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I had the same problem when switched to the blade type on my mrx4. I removed the rear shocks and then I adjusted links to allow the arms to sit on the droop screws. 57 might be the correct length, but I would double check how your arms settle when the links are attached.
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Old 10-15-2006, 09:39 AM   #395
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adjust the links till the blade sits just above level on each side.
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Old 10-15-2006, 10:38 AM   #396
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Do you have problem with rear upper link get easy to lose ?

I happened twice .... lucklily during heat

I think the turnbuckle is not long enough to properly bite the A arm.
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Old 10-15-2006, 11:56 AM   #397
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Do you have problem with rear upper link get easy to lose ?

I happened twice .... lucklily during heat

I think the turnbuckle is not long enough to properly bite the A arm.
Happens when you don't have enough care with the boards and you have your upper rear arm in the longest position, the turnbuckle doesn't grabs enough (posionous by nature, because is the weakest a-arm lenght).

Exchanged them for a pair I had from a old Tamiya car in 3x24mm long (1mm longer on each side). Solved the problem. As a plus, I have an hex to grab rather than a silly hole.

If you managed to bash the arm, better to exchange for a new one, much probably you stripped the threads created on the plastic and now will not grip enough hard. Also, try the longer turnbuckle trick I did and give it to the a-arm one or two turns more than the ball cup this gives a try to make it stiffer.
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Old 10-15-2006, 06:07 PM   #398
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Orfeous how did the ca gluing of a bearing into what is supposedly a c.n.c. aluminum something or other to add a third bearing to some lay shaft go? There buying some third bearing support and the hole for the extra bearing is to big,so the solution is to fill the gap with glue. How is it if the suckit car is so great that you guys have to buy a bunch of outsourced parts to make the car half ass competitive at best. Maybe you spend to much time gringing,sanding,reaming,gluing and filing parts to notice on those rare days when your car is together at the track and you can drive it, how badly the Mugens and Kyosho's are smoking your ass? So maybe Mugen had a problem with a multipiece mold and there are a few bad bulk heads that will be replaced upon a phone call to the closest distributor and any other oopses that occurred. Sooner than you think you'll get worn out or come to your senses, or quit racing because you believe you bought the rite equipment only to spend the majority of your time cobbling the car together. Mean while I do nothing but smile every time a suckit receiver pack dies 25 minutes into a 45 minute main, thank you! As far as the upper arm goes, are you running into wood barriers? While you have the tyres or tires on the lathe VERY!carefully take a razor and make the outside lip of the rim flat instead of knife edged so that when it makes contact with the board it will not dig in. If the upper ball link is coming lose from the stud,you can replace the 1mm washer with a engine mount lock washer or it will be taken care of when you do your chassis check.
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Old 10-16-2006, 02:48 PM   #399
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Happens when you don't have enough care with the boards and you have your upper rear arm in the longest position, the turnbuckle doesn't grabs enough (posionous by nature, because is the weakest a-arm lenght).

Exchanged them for a pair I had from a old Tamiya car in 3x24mm long (1mm longer on each side). Solved the problem. As a plus, I have an hex to grab rather than a silly hole.

If you managed to bash the arm, better to exchange for a new one, much probably you stripped the threads created on the plastic and now will not grip enough hard. Also, try the longer turnbuckle trick I did and give it to the a-arm one or two turns more than the ball cup this gives a try to make it stiffer.
Done !!! I'm using longer turnbuckle now ( i think is 4mm longer ). All the threads are 100% inside the plastic hehehehe......
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Old 10-17-2006, 04:55 AM   #400
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew
Orfeous how did the ca gluing of a bearing into what is supposedly a c.n.c. aluminum something or other to add a third bearing to some lay shaft go? There buying some third bearing support and the hole for the extra bearing is to big,so the solution is to fill the gap with glue. How is it if the suckit car is so great that you guys have to buy a bunch of outsourced parts to make the car half ass competitive at best. Maybe you spend to much time gringing,sanding,reaming,gluing and filing parts to notice on those rare days when your car is together at the track and you can drive it, how badly the Mugens and Kyosho's are smoking your ass? So maybe Mugen had a problem with a multipiece mold and there are a few bad bulk heads that will be replaced upon a phone call to the closest distributor and any other oopses that occurred. Sooner than you think you'll get worn out or come to your senses, or quit racing because you believe you bought the rite equipment only to spend the majority of your time cobbling the car together. Mean while I do nothing but smile every time a suckit receiver pack dies 25 minutes into a 45 minute main, thank you! As far as the upper arm goes, are you running into wood barriers? While you have the tyres or tires on the lathe VERY!carefully take a razor and make the outside lip of the rim flat instead of knife edged so that when it makes contact with the board it will not dig in. If the upper ball link is coming lose from the stud,you can replace the 1mm washer with a engine mount lock washer or it will be taken care of when you do your chassis check.
i understand that there are problems for all brands...
without problems there shouldnt be any new car models out there

i hope that the bearing went in good at the end.
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Old 10-17-2006, 04:58 AM   #401
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Done !!! I'm using longer turnbuckle now ( i think is 4mm longer ). All the threads are 100% inside the plastic hehehehe......
glad to hear that it went good now you are one experience richer
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Old 10-17-2006, 12:00 PM   #402
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Orfeous
glad to hear that it went good now you are one experience richer
Thanks....

Sorry with my earlier post ....... I am sorry ok? .... I wasn't really meant Mugen is better than Serpent and vice versa. ( ..... it's really driver related and setup ).

Good on you I'm looking forward to see you here.
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Old 10-17-2006, 03:22 PM   #403
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nice thing about the driver
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Old 10-18-2006, 01:28 AM   #404
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When I exit medium tight corners and give it immediate full throttle, the rear tires skid side ways. I have to full throttle quite smoothly ( read : lame, while cars behind my car is preparing to doggy mine ).

Should I increase the length of rear upper arms ? Am I doing correct ? Any other inputs ?
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Old 10-18-2006, 02:03 AM   #405
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asw, try setting your front toe to zero, it will make the rear end less snappy when coming out of a corner.
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