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Old 09-24-2006, 06:22 PM   #301
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Great day at the BPT track today. I had an awesome time running though my 8th was out due to a rear belt and rear solid axle pulley. I spent the rest of the time running sedan and that was fun. Check out the pics in the Race Forum.
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Old 09-24-2006, 11:48 PM   #302
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigboss
gd to see u having fun
does the serpent 960 compare to this car??

and just of the topic, can anyone tell me whats the diff between CNC machined and microcast piston

my model shop is selling +21 3c and 35 plus 21 for the same price
just dont no which one to get
Get 35 Plus 21 ( actualy should be more expensive than +21 3C )
CNC piston ( stronger material )
More top end rpm.
Turbo crankshaft

CNC machine is a milling machine. A pure block of aluminium is milled extensively to become piston(s).

Microcasted is molding technique. A Liquid metal is poured into a vacuum molding and let it cold.
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Old 09-25-2006, 07:12 AM   #303
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 403forbidden
MRX4 drivers beware: glue on your stickers or they might peel off due to excessive speed

For many years until today seen a VRP (Verona Racing Products)...

At least... shocking, this closed many years ago...
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[quote=MugenDrew;2684554]BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing.[/quote] :D:D:D
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Old 09-26-2006, 05:39 AM   #304
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Hi there!


I know this is a bit off topic, but here I go anyway:

Could someone recommed an engine for my new R?

I plan to use it on open European style tracks and compete in lower end of the scale regional/club events.

My favorites are Sirio STI and Rex 35+21

I have seen the Sirio STI on a very open track where it was sick fast and my friend owns a R&B Xenon R which is Sirio AAC based and is also very fast.

On the other hand the Rex or Rossi +21 was the engine to beat over the last season and its ABC set could be a little more reliable and cheaper to exchange.

I get a good price for both of those powerhouses but the Rex would be a little bit more expensive.


What do you guys think? Any thoughts would be helpful.


Many thanks in advance for looking into this!
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Old 09-26-2006, 07:08 AM   #305
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrum2
Could someone recommed an engine for my new R?

I plan to use it on open European style tracks and compete in lower end of the scale regional/club events.

My favorites are Sirio STI and Rex 35+21
The sirio is crazy fast, but expensive (welll not much expensive as a 35 Plus21, but expesive).

If you want a quick and reliable engine (and of course, cheaper than those two), the Ninja is the ticket to go, are wickedly fast, well maybe doesn't have the rip of a plus21, but the laptimes are there.

I have Ninjas and the unique thing I can do is good feedback on them, cheap, quick and easy to adjust (well... and I don't have any runtime problems with them).

Isn't a 9 port sleeve (only has 7 ports, but... wth... is fast and reliable).
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Old 09-26-2006, 09:31 PM   #306
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My JP with KABOOM!!! a few weeks ago, and I did not have a motor properly broken in that I could have raced with, since racing was the next day. A good friend lent me his Ninja - Murnan Mod, and damn damn damn...Put it this way my very own Ninja is on its way to my house as I write this. Everyone is so used to the torque from Novarossi based engines that they pre-judge the Ninja as being average. The Ninja out of the corner may not have quite as much pull, but midrange to top end I will put it up against anything out there. It likes to Rev, and therefore you have to adjust your clutch and driving style accordingly. Done the straight I more than made up for what I lost on the infield, and that was not even that much. I just kept the revs up during cornering, so that as I hit the apex and corner exit the motor was ready and willing. Long story short, the Ninja is not just a good bang for the buck, but a good motor period. Runtime: Forget about it, I was getting 5min 20sec and then some. I agree with Corse-R
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:59 AM   #307
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So, I just picked up a used MRX-4 (Thanks pfisher). Anything I need to know? Been racing electric racing for years, first adventure into nitro road racing!
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Old 09-27-2006, 09:56 AM   #308
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Talking T.he N.ew G.uy

Yeah hang on to your azz when you pull the trigger. BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing. Your in for hours of mistifying track time scratching your head trying to figure how in the hell a car could do that!
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Old 09-27-2006, 10:35 AM   #309
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Old 09-27-2006, 05:38 PM   #310
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew
Yeah hang on to your azz when you pull the trigger. BATTERIES are for FLASH LIGHTS, gasoline is for cleanin parts, alcohol is for me to drink and well NITRO...everybody know thats for racing. Your in for hours of mistifying track time scratching your head trying to figure how in the hell a car could do that!
I really like the flashlight part.
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Old 09-27-2006, 06:08 PM   #311
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I am new to 1/8th and I have something that I have been wondering about and would like to know what you guys think about the subject.

My first and only race with the car on the first qualifier the car was stock with mid to large size tires ( not sure the exact size) and I just made time, came across the line and ran out of fuel.

After that run I put a one tooth smaller spur on second gear because I thought that the car was topping out early on the straight. The car ran out of fuel even earlier. I also put a little more wing in the car so I think that I was getting in the throttle a little bit harder and earlier then in the first qualifier.

For the third round I thought that the tires where getting small so I put the stock spur back on and put a one tooth larger pinion on second and it ran out of fuel even sooner then the other two rounds. I don't know what the over all roll-out was to really be sure.

Is it possible that the engine is more efficient geared higher like in the first round? I do know that I had a faster qualifing time each round untill I would run out of fuel on the last two rounds.
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Old 09-28-2006, 01:56 AM   #312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
I am new to 1/8th and I have something that I have been wondering about and would like to know what you guys think about the subject.

My first and only race with the car on the first qualifier the car was stock with mid to large size tires ( not sure the exact size) and I just made time, came across the line and ran out of fuel.

Is it possible that the engine is more efficient geared higher like in the first round? I do know that I had a faster qualifing time each round untill I would run out of fuel on the last two rounds.
Your problem we various: First, you didn't knew what diameter used on your tyres (I pressume that if were stock was around 78mm rears - a lot!!!).

Second, you ran out of fuel, could be caused by two things. A too rich engine (or at least a too rich LSN) or too much gearing due to the big tires and you changing to smaller spurs. The most possible is a mix of those two causes.

You don't state what kind of engine used nor the pinions used, but pressume something big and quick, those engines are very fast and the people at the first tanks, scare about the speed, chiken themselves and richen the HSN just to control the car (wrong - If is your first car, you probably needed a less performing engine not a big gun).

What gearing you used? 17/21? You said started going down on spurs, so pressume you ended with somewhat like 49/45 too..

Return to a stock (or almost stock condition). Go for a 17/20 (stock pinions) or 17/21 if your track is big and flowing. For spurs, go for a 49/46 or 50/47 if you insist on running the car with big tyres (the rollout is what kills your runtime). As the tyres go down, you can start thinking on putting a 49/46 combo - forget the 45 on the 2nd gear with such size of tyres.

The best you can do is to invest on a tyre truer and cut your tyres to a more suitable size (somewhat around 69mm fronts and 76 rears is fine - for qualifiers and if you have some mid-worn sets, somewhat around 66-73 is great). But the best you can do is to setup your car for an intermediate tyre size and stick around it (74-76mm rears is great).
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:44 AM   #313
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Thanks for your input. The engine is a Ninja and I do need the big guns. I have been racing rc for 20 years now. At this race that I was writing about there where 46 1/8th scales that showed up for a big two day race. I was three seconds behind the TQ who is a 100% team Mugen driver when I ran out of fuel in the third round.

My home track is big and flowing, it has a 250' straight. I would say that the max rear tire size on the first round was 74mm. They where the kit tires but I had already ran at least seven or eight tanks of fuel using those tires.

Not sure of the engine temp but I do know that the last practice it was temped at 219 deg F. I was told by another racer to leave it alone because the air temp was only going to go up and so would the engine temp.
The first round was the kit gears and the second round was when I changed the spur to the 45t spur with the stock 20t pinion and around 72.5mm rear tires.

Do you think with this size track and the 72mm rears that I should still keep the stock gearing? I just felt that the car topped out half way down the straight away. Could this happen from the engine being to rich? And is 220deg to rich for the Ninja?
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Old 09-28-2006, 07:51 AM   #314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Thanks for your input. The engine is a Ninja and I do need the big guns. I have been racing rc for 20 years now. At this race that I was writing about there where 46 1/8th scales that showed up for a big two day race. I was three seconds behind the TQ who is a 100% team Mugen driver when I ran out of fuel in the third round.

My home track is big and flowing, it has a 250' straight. I would say that the max rear tire size on the first round was 74mm. They where the kit tires but I had already ran at least seven or eight tanks of fuel using those tires.

Not sure of the engine temp but I do know that the last practice it was temped at 219 deg F. I was told by another racer to leave it alone because the air temp was only going to go up and so would the engine temp.
The first round was the kit gears and the second round was when I changed the spur to the 45t spur with the stock 20t pinion and around 72.5mm rear tires.

Do you think with this size track and the 72mm rears that I should still keep the stock gearing? I just felt that the car topped out half way down the straight away. Could this happen from the engine being to rich? And is 220deg to rich for the Ninja?
you can lean the motor a little more most of the guys running ninja's are running them around 275 because of the large cooling hole in the middle of the head.
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Old 09-28-2006, 09:31 AM   #315
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Wink sorry for the book...

There are two things going as the air temp goes up. Yes the engine temp will rise as air temp increases, but not as rapidly as the engine will go rich do to the lessening of the air density. Cold air more oxygen=more fuel, warm air less oxygen=less fuel. Each cycle of the piston requires a certain amount of metered fuel and air, as the tires get smaller there will be more given cycles over the same distance so more fuel will be consumed. What I have noticed is there is a point where the roll out has become to small for the track due to tire wear and the engine starts running hot like a 40-60 degree jump up in temp. At this point any attempt to adjust the needle richer results in a huge drop in temp and the engine can not be tuned becuase the needle has become way to sensitive. Put tires on it and its rite back to where we started. Look at the roll out chart starting with like 75mm rears,look at the roll out for first and second. Follow the chart down to like 72-71mm and you'll see that to maintain the same roll out its as easy as going up one tooth on each pinion. Roll out chart...
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