Mugen MRX-4R

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Old 05-17-2006, 02:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
Please, go to the MRX4 thread and read across it, contains many valuable information.
i like here bec. its MRX-4R thread not MRX4 only lol sory.
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Old 05-17-2006, 02:50 PM
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Hey guys which one is better servo?
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Old 05-17-2006, 02:55 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen4lyf
Hey guys which one is better servo?
Brand: airtronics or ko propo ok. they both good / perform well. Dont get the crapy one or cheap ok. No more question ask.
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Old 05-17-2006, 06:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Os
Brand: airtronics or ko propo ok. they both good / perform well. Dont get the crapy one or cheap ok. No more question ask.
Hey Os got pm
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Old 05-17-2006, 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Os
Brand: airtronics or ko propo ok. they both good / perform well. Dont get the crapy one or cheap ok. No more question ask.
Its too expensive the ko $115 bucks i cant afford it wah
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Old 05-17-2006, 10:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
The stock aluminium pinions are almost crap, they last very short and people switch the steel ones (bad move, IMHO, but...). Regarding the ones from the Evolva, I don't know, asked for the ones of Delta XP4 and got this answer, check with the ones from Kyosho, but what I've seen are very similar to the Stock AL ones from Mugen (crappy due to being short-lived).
corse-R, why are the steel pinions no good to use?
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by itchy b
corse-R, why are the steel pinions no good to use?
What happen to the steel?
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Old 05-17-2006, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mugen4lyf
Its too expensive the ko $115 bucks i cant afford it wah
Better than crapy lol come on.
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Old 05-18-2006, 12:16 AM
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Steel pinions are more durable, but weight much more and if you're buying many lightweight hop-ups for making it lighter and lless drag and inertia everywhere (read: Ti axles, Ti screwsets and others) is a nonsense (at least for me...) to put a lot of weight on the clutchbell.

Please, read and use the MRX4 thread, more people is there just to help you in any question may arise and there's much info for the 4 and 4-R (doesn't matter if has or not an -R).
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Old 05-18-2006, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
Steel pinions are more durable, but weight much more and if you're buying many lightweight hop-ups for making it lighter and lless drag and inertia everywhere (read: Ti axles, Ti screwsets and others) is a nonsense (at least for me...) to put a lot of weight on the clutchbell.

Please, read and use the MRX4 thread, more people is there just to help you in any question may arise and there's much info for the 4 and 4-R (doesn't matter if has or not an -R).
So its better if you put a lot lightwieght then? even the clutchbell?
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Old 05-18-2006, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Mugen4lyf
So its better if you put a lot lightwieght then? even the clutchbell?
A lightweight transmission has their own benefits and drawbacks, you must evaluate if the gains compensate the losses.

A lightweight transmission is easier to accelerate and brake, so less power is used on accelerating.

A lightweight transmission has a lesser moment of inertia, so when going off-power, may loose speed faster, so if you change from a stock transmission to a lightened one, the points where you need to lift-off the throttle will be different due to the inertia moments (on lightweight will be later).
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:02 PM
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
A lightweight transmission has their own benefits and drawbacks, you must evaluate if the gains compensate the losses.

A lightweight transmission is easier to accelerate and brake, so less power is used on accelerating.

A lightweight transmission has a lesser moment of inertia, so when going off-power, may loose speed faster, so if you change from a stock transmission to a lightened one, the points where you need to lift-off the throttle will be different due to the inertia moments (on lightweight will be later).
I upgrade some major parts like this:
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MRX-4R-dsc00680.jpg   Mugen MRX-4R-jose1-11-.jpg   Mugen MRX-4R-jose1-12-.jpg   Mugen MRX-4R-jose1-4-.jpg  
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Joe Os
I upgrade some major parts like this:
That first pic (the one with the main shaft) shows a big problem... galling just in the place where the rear pulley and brake disk holder goes (was tough to remove the piece?).

Before installing, put a little of grease just to prevent galling in the future. Watch out the bearings, seems that score the main shaft.

I see a bunch of Ti parts out there. (Dogbones and main shaft... expensive, quite expensive). The Carlsen front outdrives are nice, but their machining quality, leaves a little to desire (seen a set of those and the machining wasn't as nice should be leaving sharp edges).

I prefeer a set of hollow steel main and front shafts (cheaper). Seems that Carlsen has some of those.
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
That first pic (the one with the main shaft) shows a big problem... galling just in the place where the rear pulley and brake disk holder goes (was tough to remove the piece?).

Before installing, put a little of grease just to prevent galling in the future. Watch out the bearings, seems that score the main shaft.

I see a bunch of Ti parts out there. (Dogbones and main shaft... expensive, quite expensive). The Carlsen front outdrives are nice, but their machining quality, leaves a little to desire (seen a set of those and the machining wasn't as nice should be leaving sharp edges).

I prefeer a set of hollow steel main and front shafts (cheaper). Seems that Carlsen has some of those.
The Ti main shaft i use that for race only.I got the Hallow middle shaft alreadytoo and Lypo 800mah w/ voltage regulator lol the front upper arm mount home made solid front oneway.
Attached Thumbnails Mugen MRX-4R-dsc00678.jpg   Mugen MRX-4R-dsc00681.jpg  
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Old 05-18-2006, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
That first pic (the one with the main shaft) shows a big problem... galling just in the place where the rear pulley and brake disk holder goes (was tough to remove the piece?).

Before installing, put a little of grease just to prevent galling in the future. Watch out the bearings, seems that score the main shaft.

I see a bunch of Ti parts out there. (Dogbones and main shaft... expensive, quite expensive). The Carlsen front outdrives are nice, but their machining quality, leaves a little to desire (seen a set of those and the machining wasn't as nice should be leaving sharp edges).

I prefeer a set of hollow steel main and front shafts (cheaper). Seems that Carlsen has some of those.
The Ti main shaft from 3racing is really cheap than the jp one. Lol

Last edited by Joe Os; 05-18-2006 at 02:12 PM.
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