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Old 09-10-2006, 05:14 PM   #256
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Originally Posted by asw7576
I use supa killa servos Hitec 5955TG. Hail to King of torque ( 333oz / 24kg )
Why such beasts? those servos are more suited to the steering of a truggy or a 1/5 scale steering.... with 8-10Kg you're more than what you need... more is overkill. Nothing best than a pair of 9450/9451 Futaba servos for any kind of gas car...
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Old 09-11-2006, 05:53 AM   #257
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Default stock shock oil..

what does the standard 600wt shock oil convert to in normal shock oils hehe..
eg: 40wt 50wt etc..

thanks guys
John
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Old 09-11-2006, 06:04 AM   #258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
what does the standard 600wt shock oil convert to in normal shock oils hehe..
eg: 40wt 50wt etc..

thanks guys
John
600wt = 60wt. Just remove the zero, another eg: 350wt = 35wt.
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Old 09-11-2006, 06:19 AM   #259
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thanks sohlman i knew it was something simple
im just trying to understand my car a little more
its the mrx4..

i can get my rrr to handle sweet at any track
i just dont have much experience with the 1:8, ive only had about 30 mins of track time with it
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Old 09-11-2006, 10:26 AM   #260
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mugen4lyf
im planning to buy a transmitter but im thinking about KO PROPO EX-10 Helios Competition Version 27MHz or M11 any idea or comment? pls....
It's your choice

I pick KO propo for myself. The best ergonomics so far.
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Old 09-11-2006, 12:51 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sohlman
600wt = 60wt. Just remove the zero, another eg: 350wt = 35wt.
AFAIK wasn't a matter of removing just a number... a #600 from Mugen is equivalent to a #55 from Team Losi and such... is a slight difference between the US made silicones and the others (and of course... don't mess with the Snake ones in cst... totally different units - you can end with a nightmare in your mind).

I have a bottle of #500, #600, #700 & #800 from Mugen and never had a problem with them... maybe are a little expensive, but...
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Old 09-12-2006, 01:32 AM   #262
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Just stick with 1 brand.
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Old 09-12-2006, 03:47 AM   #263
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we cant buy the mugen oil locally, ive been using the gs racing oils
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Last edited by mrgsr; 09-12-2006 at 03:49 AM. Reason: spelling mistake
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Old 09-12-2006, 04:51 AM   #264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrgsr
what does the standard 600wt shock oil convert to in normal shock oils hehe..
eg: 40wt 50wt etc..

thanks guys
John
That is not a easy question to answer. Assoc., Losi, and Trinity's shock oils are not the same even in the same 30W oil. I asked this same question about a year ago on the MTX-3 thread and someone posted a site that checked all of the major brands. When I looked at the results I was shocked to see the variations in any one brand. Losi was the closest on the actual weight that was stated on the bottle and Trinity was the worst.The way that Mugen shows the oil weight is more accurate (finer graduations). The best thing to do is to just stick with one Company for all of your oils like asw7576 said and you will be consistant when you want to make a shock oil weight change.
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:40 PM   #265
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Anyone use 25T front side pulley ?

The default is 26T.

What is the effect going down from 26 to 25 ?
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Old 09-12-2006, 02:43 PM   #266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Anyone use 25T front side pulley ?

The default is 26T.

What is the effect going down from 26 to 25 ?
Depending on which pulley you choose you'll need to use 7mm or 9 to 10mm of tyre split. This is the main difference. Those sets are so expensive that the idea of killing my front tyres up to 64 or less mm horrorizes me.
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Old 09-13-2006, 12:44 AM   #267
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Depending on which pulley you choose you'll need to use 7mm or 9 to 10mm of tyre split. This is the main difference. Those sets are so expensive that the idea of killing my front tyres up to 64 or less mm horrorizes me.
Which pulley to use so I can drop in the tires out of the box ?

GQ tires is 7mm split difference out of box.
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Old 09-13-2006, 11:22 AM   #268
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Simple question, very complicated answer. I'll try and keep it simple. #1 The smaller the tire diameter the more reactive or responsive or twitchy it will be with a little less side traction. Larger dia. more stable and a little more side traction. #2 Look at the roll out chart, select your desired rear dia. and follow over to the number closest to 1.000. At 1.000 your rear tyres and front tyres will cover the same distance per engine revolution, and this means that 4WD will always be ingauged. As the number goes higher like 1.025 the car will behave more and more like a front wheel drive car than 4wd IF the front belt can take it. The lower this number .998 the more the car will act like a rear wheel drive car. The rears cover more ground per engine revolution than the fronts and because of our wonderfull front one-way power will not be applied to the front. However if the rears slip(Little to hot coming out of a corner)the one-way will engage 4wd to help pull the car out of the corner.
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Old 09-13-2006, 01:06 PM   #269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew
Simple question, very complicated answer. I'll try and keep it simple. #1 The smaller the tire diameter the more reactive or responsive or twitchy it will bewith a little less side traction. Larger dia. more stable and a little more side traction. #2 Look at the roll out chart, select your desired rear dia. and follow over to the number closest to 1.000. At 1.000 your rear tyres and front tyres will cover the same distance per engine revolution, and this means that 4WD will always be ingaged. As the number goes higher like 1.025 the car will behave more and more like a front wheel drive car than 4wd IF the front belt can take it. The lower this number .998 the more the car will act like a rear wheel drive car. The rears cover more ground per engine revolution than the fronts and because of our wonderfull front one-way power will not be applied to the front. However if the rears slip(Little to hot coming out of a corner)the one-way will engage 4wd to help pull the car out of the corner.
One of the best explanations I've seen.
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Old 09-13-2006, 03:01 PM   #270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MugenDrew
Simple question, very complicated answer. I'll try and keep it simple. #1 The smaller the tire diameter the more reactive or responsive or twitchy it will be with a little less side traction. Larger dia. more stable and a little more side traction. #2 Look at the roll out chart, select your desired rear dia. and follow over to the number closest to 1.000. At 1.000 your rear tyres and front tyres will cover the same distance per engine revolution, and this means that 4WD will always be ingauged. As the number goes higher like 1.025 the car will behave more and more like a front wheel drive car than 4wd IF the front belt can take it. The lower this number .998 the more the car will act like a rear wheel drive car. The rears cover more ground per engine revolution than the fronts and because of our wonderfull front one-way power will not be applied to the front. However if the rears slip(Little to hot coming out of a corner)the one-way will engage 4wd to help pull the car out of the corner.
Nice, thanks

I'm going to keep the ratio close to 1.000 but no more than 1.000
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