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Old 10-16-2008, 10:51 AM   #1531
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[*]Spring, I use super hard spring and tighten it about 1mm from the tip of the nut.[*] this is the important part. setting your gaps. Once most of your clutch is all assembled I take the clutch bell with both bearings in and place it onto the crank. The crank pointing towards you, and you looking down at the bell, you spin the bell. You will see that the bell binds against the shoe. [*]place shims on the crank and start shimming from the inside ( FROM the clutch nut). [*]Put one shim in and spin the bell, if it still binds against the shoe, add another. [*]After a couple of shims you feel that your bell is not binding against the shoe, this means that the inside gap is set. The advantage of this way is that the shoe determines the gap, after a couple of heats you will find you need to redo this as you wear your shoe out. Fool proof bro. [*]assemble thrust bearing, make sure that the larger hole of the thrust plate is closest to the motor. [*]Do your end play shimming. [*]I have my endplay between .3 and .5, once again the bigger the gap, the more punch you will have. [*]Always make sure your thrust bearing has the correct lube on, and that you lube it often, very quick and can saves you from loosing a heat or a bearing. [*]Also the lighter the clutch weights are the more punch you will have as the motor needs more RPM to kick them out against the pressure plate to engage the clutch.[*]Hope this helps, I found it to be fool proof and my clutches are consistent and predictable.

Hope this helps, I am not a pro but I have ever had issues with clutches going, but each one has there style of doing things, this just works for me.

All the best man!
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Old 03-15-2009, 12:01 PM   #1532
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Default What version of MRX-4 is this?

I need some help, can the Mugen Guru ID this MRX4 is which version? The regular MRX4? Or MRX4R or MRX4X or....MRX3? Thanks a million





http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r.../IMG_0993a.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r.../IMG_0991a.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r.../IMG_0994a.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r.../IMG_0996a.jpg

http://i146.photobucket.com/albums/r.../IMG_0997a.jpg
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Old 03-15-2009, 12:25 PM   #1533
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long shock body inherent to a 4x, #4 wrench on turnbuckle ends says 4x-r.
eliminate the MRX3 concept. I have both 4X and X3.
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Old 03-15-2009, 12:31 PM   #1534
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This looks like the MRX-4R. Long shock body in the rear and straight upper arms in the front. But the upper rear arms looks from the regular MRX-4 though. Might have been converted.
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Old 03-15-2009, 12:39 PM   #1535
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It's a MRX4-R
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Old 03-15-2009, 12:48 PM   #1536
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It's a MRX4-R.
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Old 03-15-2009, 01:58 PM   #1537
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Yep, R. It looks like an R front shock tower, R uprights with no shims on the axles and R rear shocks and tower.
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Old 03-15-2009, 02:37 PM   #1538
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The brake lever looks very short. That part could be from the x kit.
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Old 03-15-2009, 02:40 PM   #1539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fulcrum2 View Post
The brake lever looks very short. That part could be from the x kit.
Good eye, that is an X brake arm.
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Old 03-15-2009, 02:53 PM   #1540
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It has a R main chassis. It's a Mrx4-r. but it does have the X brake lever
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Old 03-15-2009, 08:33 PM   #1541
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Guys...excellent information and now I know it is an "R" because you guys say so....thanks a million.

I have 1 more question, I do not have the manual of this car....is there anywhere I can download the official MRX4R manual? Like Mugen Seiki website..?
Also...someone mentioned my car has the optional chassis, any place I can see this chassis listed as an option..?

I ran Serpent most of the time, this is my 1st ever Mugen....and how much of a different between the R and the X? I remember back then when X came out, ppl said it use back a lot of the MRX4 parts (like back to the basic)...I am not qute sure what was that mean....

Thanks again....
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Old 02-06-2011, 01:28 PM   #1542
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Well I'm fresh back from the winter nats and I think I need to figure out how to shorten my rear wheel base. Without spending 2 days searching this thread for the how to, how much do I trim off the upper and lower arms?

I was having issues getting in and out of the sweeper going onto the straight if you wanna call it a straight away lol. I was lifting off throttle and turning in and when getting back on the throttle the back end of the car would try to step out on me. I was running -2 toe per side, -2 camber per side, 5.5 roll center, and about 3mm on the rear swaybar. 32 fronts and 35 rears. P909 body with the rear wing all the way up.

Thanks!

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Old 02-06-2011, 10:18 PM   #1543
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
Well I'm fresh back from the winter nats and I think I need to figure out how to shorten my rear wheel base. Without spending 2 days searching this thread for the how to, how much do I trim off the upper and lower arms?

I was having issues getting in and out of the sweeper going onto the straight if you wanna call it a straight away lol. I was lifting off throttle and turning in and when getting back on the throttle the back end of the car would try to step out on me. I was running -2 toe per side, -2 camber per side, 5.5 roll center, and about 3mm on the rear swaybar. 32 fronts and 35 rears. P909 body with the rear wing all the way up.

Thanks!

Lon
1. Cut 1mm on the lower suspension arms ( where you insert in the hinge pin). Please observed where and the direction to cut. You have to cut 4 arms @ 1mm each.

2. Buy tamiya wheel hex spacer 1mm thick ( red color ), and insert those spacers so front and rear lower suspension arms, they become closer ( shorter wheelbase by 2mm in effect ).

Isn't that shorter wheelbase will make your problem even worser ?

I think you should try these ideas for rear wheels : wider track width, lower downstop value ( 7 instead of 9 ), 3 degree toe in, 3.5 or 4 degree camber.

And check your rear brake for free wheeling, incase you have drag brakes on.
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Old 02-07-2011, 06:57 AM   #1544
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576 View Post
1. Cut 1mm on the lower suspension arms ( where you insert in the hinge pin). Please observed where and the direction to cut. You have to cut 4 arms @ 1mm each.

2. Buy tamiya wheel hex spacer 1mm thick ( red color ), and insert those spacers so front and rear lower suspension arms, they become closer ( shorter wheelbase by 2mm in effect ).

Isn't that shorter wheelbase will make your problem even worser ?

I think you should try these ideas for rear wheels : wider track width, lower downstop value ( 7 instead of 9 ), 3 degree toe in, 3.5 or 4 degree camber.

And check your rear brake for free wheeling, incase you have drag brakes on.
Thanks for the advice. The rear track is already really wide, I didn't try less droop, I kept adding and subtracting toe all week and that was not helping, at 2 camber my rear tires are wearing pretty close to perfectly flat. I run zero drag brake. I think lowering the rear roll center and shortening up the wheel base will help sense thats like lowering the rear of the car and putting more weight over the rear tires.
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Old 02-07-2011, 07:45 AM   #1545
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
Thanks for the advice. The rear track is already really wide, I didn't try less droop, I kept adding and subtracting toe all week and that was not helping, at 2 camber my rear tires are wearing pretty close to perfectly flat. I run zero drag brake. I think lowering the rear roll center and shortening up the wheel base will help sense thats like lowering the rear of the car and putting more weight over the rear tires.
ooops, i mean wider front track width. ie. front.

or you can narrow rear track width by 1mm on each side.

or increase the rear wing even higher ( or buy ybslow H body post to increase the height of rear body even higher ).
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