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Old 06-24-2008, 06:52 PM   #1501
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Originally Posted by onerun View Post
Has anyone else experienced losing a rear out drive bearing and the concentric adjuter? It's happened twice now. It gets rather expensive, considering it deforms the hole in the rear bulkhead, rendering it useless.....as well as ruining the rear belt.

Doc
Sorry dude but no I haven't. Check for a bind, or lube the bearings every race day.
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Old 06-24-2008, 06:55 PM   #1502
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ok cool , right now this my first 1/8th scale, kinda new to the onroad scene, but i have a shadow body is it ok?
The only body I run is the Central. Hands down the best body for the MRX4R IMO. Second choice would be the Parma R-11.
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:42 PM   #1503
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The only body I run is the Central. Hands down the best body for the MRX4R IMO. Second choice would be the Parma R-11.
one last question ...who make the Central
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Old 06-24-2008, 08:50 PM   #1504
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one last question ...who make the Central

Serpent does sort of. Go here

gasrccar.com
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Old 06-24-2008, 09:01 PM   #1505
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cool ...good looks... now i need to find a setup station
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Old 06-25-2008, 05:48 AM   #1506
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one last question ...who make the Central
It is by CentralRC from Japan. http://www.centralrc.co.jp/
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Old 06-25-2008, 09:19 AM   #1507
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Other then the notorious tip breaking off, has anyone got anymore feed back on the Mugen FLS 2632? run time? other motors running them? top end? bottom end? low end? ect ect...
much appreciated
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Old 06-28-2008, 10:19 AM   #1508
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Giving 1/8 scale a try. Is it normal to cut camber into the tires? Or should I cut them straight across. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Pass you soon...
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Old 06-28-2008, 12:49 PM   #1509
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Giving 1/8 scale a try. Is it normal to cut camber into the tires? Or should I cut them straight across. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.


Pass you soon...
Most people do cut a little camber angle into the tires.

Lee
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Old 07-01-2008, 08:27 AM   #1510
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when i run my car i notice when i hit the brakes the sort of ver to the right, i try adjusting the trim on the radio but still do the same is that common on the mrx4r & what can i do to fix it?
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Old 07-01-2008, 10:14 AM   #1511
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when i run my car i notice when i hit the brakes the sort of ver to the right, i try adjusting the trim on the radio but still do the same is that common on the mrx4r & what can i do to fix it?
That's due to the front oneway, try adjusting the brakes to don't hit that hard, or if you have a radio with the anti lock function set it up right so you can have brakes with out locking the tires.
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Old 07-03-2008, 03:56 AM   #1512
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Feel bored last night......... I'm cutting 1mm at the rear suspension arms to make 1mm shorter wheelbase. Let see the impact on sunday.

( i guess the impact is small..... )
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Old 07-03-2008, 07:04 AM   #1513
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try cutting 3mm. You would have to take off from the bulkhead also. Use the same kind of spacer as the front.
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Old 07-16-2008, 06:18 PM   #1514
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Questions??

Hello

How you guys set your clutch?

I'm following the Josh Cyrul method in my Triple R and the clutch works awesome

I tried this method in MRX4 but the yellow shoe wears very very fast, I ran only 1 Liter and I already can see the flywheel pins!!

What are initial settings for gap and end-play? In Mugen setting sheet says cleareance, what is this? Gap or End-play

Spring pre-load is 1.2mm with MSR hard spring
Gap 0.4mm measure without inner bearing, I shim in thrust retainer
End-play with everything installed 0.2mm
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Old 07-17-2008, 06:12 AM   #1515
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From my terrible experience of 960's clutch, you may try to see your clutch endbell. If the inner part is grinded and scratched, sander it and make it smooth. Make sure it is not wobbled when you use your fingers to rotate it.
If this remains, change a new endbell. Mugen always have the best parts and it seldom happens. Good luck!
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