Kyosho V-ONE RRR Evo
#571
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by buggynic
I have a question on this sirio engine.
There is always a bit play when I try to move the crankshaft away from the engine. No matter how tight the nut on the flywheel.
the play is around 0.5 mm. Is this normal ? I try different cone under the flywheel but have no luck. I also put some spacer before putting the cone, still I have the play. this not happening with my novarossi S5 engine earlier.
one more question regarding the spur gears. any tip of preventing the strip spur gears ? I try to set correct gear mesh by putting a piece of paper between but it still happening once in a while. I am thinking of making the chassis a bit rough under the bolt/nut. any idea ?
I love this kyosho car alot, I just converted it to rrr-evo. I did not notice the different in handling so far, but I do like the layout of radio plate better.
thanks
There is always a bit play when I try to move the crankshaft away from the engine. No matter how tight the nut on the flywheel.
the play is around 0.5 mm. Is this normal ? I try different cone under the flywheel but have no luck. I also put some spacer before putting the cone, still I have the play. this not happening with my novarossi S5 engine earlier.
one more question regarding the spur gears. any tip of preventing the strip spur gears ? I try to set correct gear mesh by putting a piece of paper between but it still happening once in a while. I am thinking of making the chassis a bit rough under the bolt/nut. any idea ?
I love this kyosho car alot, I just converted it to rrr-evo. I did not notice the different in handling so far, but I do like the layout of radio plate better.
thanks
which will tigthen the contact and adsorb the vibration during the long run, not too much else you have problem unscrewing. For me I replace the existing screw and add a washer that protects the screw just incase it rubs against the road surface. These screw and washer can also be used on the upper deck of the chasis for sensitive area.
Hope it helps
#572
Originally Posted by buggynic
I have a question on this sirio engine.
There is always a bit play when I try to move the crankshaft away from the engine. No matter how tight the nut on the flywheel.
the play is around 0.5 mm. Is this normal ? I try different cone under the flywheel but have no luck. I also put some spacer before putting the cone, still I have the play. this not happening with my novarossi S5 engine earlier.
one more question regarding the spur gears. any tip of preventing the strip spur gears ? I try to set correct gear mesh by putting a piece of paper between but it still happening once in a while. I am thinking of making the chassis a bit rough under the bolt/nut. any idea ?
I love this kyosho car alot, I just converted it to rrr-evo. I did not notice the different in handling so far, but I do like the layout of radio plate better.
thanks
There is always a bit play when I try to move the crankshaft away from the engine. No matter how tight the nut on the flywheel.
the play is around 0.5 mm. Is this normal ? I try different cone under the flywheel but have no luck. I also put some spacer before putting the cone, still I have the play. this not happening with my novarossi S5 engine earlier.
one more question regarding the spur gears. any tip of preventing the strip spur gears ? I try to set correct gear mesh by putting a piece of paper between but it still happening once in a while. I am thinking of making the chassis a bit rough under the bolt/nut. any idea ?
I love this kyosho car alot, I just converted it to rrr-evo. I did not notice the different in handling so far, but I do like the layout of radio plate better.
thanks
Regarding the gears, I do not do it with paper. Just try to mount the engine in such a position where both the gears are first running free and second do not have a play (spurs with pinions). It takes a while to realize which is the correct position.
#573
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Just a tip for EVERYONE , When setting gear mesh , just hold the pinions and spur gears firmly together while tightening the engine to the engine mount , no paper. When tight you dont want them to be bound up but tight is ok , they will break in . I dont strip gears and this is how I do it. The number one cause of stripped gears is to lose of a gear mesh. Dont be scared to be on the tight side.
#574
Tech Master
Mr. Atomic - great job at the Paris Race. You were carving! The car looked amazing - you should change your name to Carver Atomic!!!!!
Splendid Job, my man. TQ and the 60 minute Win -- YA, BUDDY
Splendid Job, my man. TQ and the 60 minute Win -- YA, BUDDY
#575
Tech Elite
iTrader: (4)
Originally Posted by ATOMIC
Just a tip for EVERYONE , When setting gear mesh , just hold the pinions and spur gears firmly together while tightening the engine to the engine mount , no paper. When tight you dont want them to be bound up but tight is ok , they will break in . I dont strip gears and this is how I do it. The number one cause of stripped gears is to lose of a gear mesh. Dont be scared to be on the tight side.
and so does it mean both 1st and 2nd spur and pinion are tighten when we doing the meshing ?
#576
Originally Posted by ATOMIC
Just a tip for EVERYONE , When setting gear mesh , just hold the pinions and spur gears firmly together while tightening the engine to the engine mount , no paper. When tight you dont want them to be bound up but tight is ok , they will break in . I dont strip gears and this is how I do it. The number one cause of stripped gears is to lose of a gear mesh. Dont be scared to be on the tight side.
Are you using the stock pinions or the steel ones? How often are you changing your gears?
#577
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
Yes , you set both 1st and second tight , they will break in after a run or two. They will last a long time this way also. If you take your motor out , just set the mesh the same way again , it will not have to break in again. I use the Aluminum pinions . They wear which is a good thing when setting your mesh with this method.
#578
Tech Addict
iTrader: (11)
As for changing the gears , the plastic I dont change very often. I ran a set for the whole 2 weeks at the worlds , a southwest series race and now the whole Paris Race this past week. The first gear pinion is the only one that really wears. I ran one for the races above , but put a new one on for the Paris main.
Thanks Rich -The Car was just that easy to drive , it did most of the work.
Thanks Rich -The Car was just that easy to drive , it did most of the work.
#579
I know this isn't supposed to be in this thread but there is no v-one RR evo threads.... I want to get rid of the floating rear, is there any shock stay/towers that can replace it? Maybe possibly from any other rr/rrr's.
#581
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Are you using the stock pinions or the steel ones? How often are you changing your gears?
#583
Originally Posted by fritzD
what's wrong with steel pinions?
#585
Tech Elite
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Cebu City, Philippines and Ocala, Florida, USA
Posts: 3,840
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Originally Posted by ATOMIC
Yes , you set both 1st and second tight , they will break in after a run or two. They will last a long time this way also. If you take your motor out , just set the mesh the same way again , it will not have to break in again. I use the Aluminum pinions . They wear which is a good thing when setting your mesh with this method.
I also use this method especially when the gear have already been run a couple of times. By just holding the pinion and spurs together when tightening the engine down, it gives you a perfect match I have owned two v1rrr wce and haven't stripped a gear. And now the v1rrr evo, no problems with the gears stripping also. I'm using the bock stock aluminum gears that came with the kit. I just made sure that I apply enough threadlock on the engine screws to prevent any movement of the engine. Once the engine moves, bye-bye to the gears