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Old 02-21-2007, 06:02 AM   #1231
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
I cannot attest to the quality of these screw sets, but they do exist...

Square V1RRR Titanium Screws Set - $55.00 USD
- http://rc-mushroom.com/product_info....oducts_id=6666
- http://shopping.rcmodel.hk/product_i...c1ca8cc9023724

ATOMIC Full Titanium Screw Set 2.0mm Flat Head Screw (For Kyosho V1RRR) - $47.00
http://www.precisionrc.com/nv/car/pr...oduct_id=34623
Thanks for the link Rainer
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:04 AM   #1232
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
I am so close to making my final desicion into switching brands, and I thouhgt I'd ask you guys for your honest opinions. Is there or are there any common problems with the RRR Evo WC that owners are facing and having to deal with??

To make my point a littler bit clearer, the MTX-4 for example has a major gear stripping problem. Some have figured out a way to stop it. Other didn't (such as myself.. ). I know quite a few guys with RRR's and they all seem to be very happy with the cars. What I'm asking for really is wether there are any hidden secrets or problems I don't know about in the car?

Now please don't start to praise the product simply because some of you guys own it. Let's not consider this a matter of pride,, but on the contrary a matter of pure and simple honesty.

Please remember that any comment given by someone without carefull thought could cost another person a lot of money. It happened to me before buying the MTX-4 and believe me,, you never want to feel the way I felt after remembering all the praising comments I got and never got a gear stripping comment although it was very common and widely discussed among a lot of forums. My bad luck was that I only discovered that after buying the car..
I just got back into this hobby more than a year ago. When I got back, i got a 2nd RRR. I didn't have problems. The only problem was me. I stripped spurs gears because i didnt put thread lock on the engine mounts. So, i placed thread lock. But i was too crazy i put too much. I had difficulty removing my engine. But anyway, this cause me a busted engine mount. After that i started to learn how to do things right; threadlock, gear meshing, set-up, etc... i never had a problem with the car. For a long time now, the only parts i had to replace were belts and pinion gears. I upgraded some parts in which some of them aren't really neccessary. I just wanted my car to look good.

Rainer's "nitrokb.com" site is a major contribution to my success in the kit. I raced this car and i am very very satisfied. That's why i upgraded into the RRR evo. The only problems i experience in races are flame outs and mistakes. If i were to wish for something right now it would be for a new engine and to improve my driving. I got in 2nd place in our races simply because one of top drivers who just upgraded into the you have, strips gears during the race. BUt anyway, its all up to you. All I can say, the kit is good. If you ever have problems, everybody here will help you. Good Luck on your decision!

Last edited by fritzD; 02-21-2007 at 06:21 AM.
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:05 AM   #1233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii


This is the direct link to the download in the Japanese version of the Kyosho.com Web site:
http://www.kyosho.com/jpn/support/in...errr_evo_m.pdf

It's in English and Japanese.

Why it's not in the English side is beyond me.

And it's not at the Kyosho America site either.
thanks a million!!
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:10 AM   #1234
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nitromoe: As far as I am concerned, the only thing that I didn't really like about the kit so far is the pinion gears wear of easily. Aside from that, just the usual maintainance parts such as the belts. Other than that, I have no other issues with the kit. Since I bought the kit last Septmeber 2006, I have replaced the stock aluminum pinions after 2 months of use. I just changed belts (the whole set) a week ago. By the way, I replaced the stock aluminum pinions with the steel ones and it is holding well. So far after 2 months of using it, they are still in perfect shape. I don't mind the added weight that the stel pinions add to. It's a small price to pay for durability and reliability... A friend of mine is also having the same problem of stripping the spur gears of his MTX-4.
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:20 AM   #1235
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i agree with dokidoki's opinion. The stock pinion wear easily. This one one of the reasons why i stripped gears. The gears i stripped were from the original RRR. Like doki i also replaced them with the steel ones. But right now, im using kfactory hardened aluminum pinion gears. They're as light as the stock kyosho pinions but lasts much longer than the stock ones.
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:34 AM   #1236
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzD
i agree with dokidoki's opinion. The stock pinion wear easily. This one one of the reasons why i stripped gears. The gears i stripped were from the original RRR. Like doki i also replaced them with the steel ones. But right now, im using kfactory hardened aluminum pinion gears. They're as light as the stock kyosho pinions but lasts much longer than the stock ones.
Hmm...Well, what I did to compensate for the weight of the steel pinion gears was to upgrade to the lightened clutch bell... Hey, did you find your manual already?
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:38 AM   #1237
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Quote:
Originally Posted by doki_doki
Hmm...Well, what I did to compensate for the weight of the steel pinion gears was to upgrade to the lightened clutch bell... Hey, did you find your manual already?
nop/.. hehehe
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Old 02-21-2007, 06:45 AM   #1238
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nop/.. hehehe
Now who could have taken your manual Maybe you dropped it on your way to the car...
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:39 AM   #1239
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
I am so close to making my final desicion into switching brands, and I thouhgt I'd ask you guys for your honest opinions. Is there or are there any common problems with the RRR Evo WC that owners are facing and having to deal with??

To make my point a littler bit clearer, the MTX-4 for example has a major gear stripping problem. Some have figured out a way to stop it. Other didn't (such as myself.. ). I know quite a few guys with RRR's and they all seem to be very happy with the cars. What I'm asking for really is wether there are any hidden secrets or problems I don't know about in the car?

Now please don't start to praise the product simply because some of you guys own it. Let's not consider this a matter of pride,, but on the contrary a matter of pure and simple honesty.

Please remember that any comment given by someone without carefull thought could cost another person a lot of money. It happened to me before buying the MTX-4 and believe me,, you never want to feel the way I felt after remembering all the praising comments I got and never got a gear stripping comment although it was very common and widely discussed among a lot of forums. My bad luck was that I only discovered that after buying the car..
I can honestly tell you that my car (RRR WCE) is an excellent car right out of the box. Like others here, I have added a few hop-ups but they were more to make me feel better than to make the car much better. Most of them are genuine Kyosho parts. I have stripped a few gears but they were all my fault. I had 2 run-aways (fuel in the receiver), I failed to tighten the engine a few times and once was from wear. I don't use locktite on my engine screws but I did change them to hex head. Things you should know, the car requires regular maintenance. The gears and pulleys need to be changed regularly. The pulleys come all together in a bag for around $10... cheap compared to most other brands. I use the aluminum pinions and change them when they appear worn. Use long screws in the rear upper link/rear hub connection to avoid potential hub breakage. The rear shock tower is a standard 3mm (I think) and if you get hit hard in the back it could break... keep a spare. I have broken 1 in a year of racing. I glue and tape the battery in... just to be safe. Fuel can break-down tape. Watch the seam on the fuel tank... if you crash alot. Watch the teeth on the SP belts. If you start loosing teeth, replace the belt. They don't last forever. If you break an arm, check the hinge pins. I recommend getting a hex head screw kit. I don't care for philips.

I don't have alot of experience with different brands but I have had other cars. This car is fast, durable, handles very well and you don't need to be a rocket scientist to figure it out. It's a very good car. If you get one I would recommend an EVO WC. It has everything you need.

Good luck.
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Old 02-21-2007, 10:48 AM   #1240
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Default Parts Needed !!!

I have two RRR cars now. I regular RRR WC and a new Evo WC. I was wanting to upgrade some of the parts on the regular WC like the two speed shaft and brake pulley. I could find all the parts except for VZ239, which is the aluminum pulley and brake piece. Has this part been discontinued or is there a new part to replace it with ?

Please advise.


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Old 02-21-2007, 01:16 PM   #1241
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nitro_moe
Now please don't start to praise the product simply because some of you guys own it. Let's not consider this a matter of pride,, but on the contrary a matter of pure and simple honesty.
All you have to do is read through the race reports at my forum and you'll know that most of my problems with the RRR are caused by the owner.

It's a good car - otherwise I wouldn't own two of them. Just give it some TLC and you shouldn't have any problems. Really.

MTX-4 is really different from the RRR. Although some things are similar, other things are very different. You should download the instruction manual(s) and read through them before making your final decision.
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Old 02-21-2007, 01:38 PM   #1242
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
All you have to do is read through the race reports at my forum and you'll know that most of my problems with the RRR are caused by the owner.

It's a good car - otherwise I wouldn't own two of them. Just give it some TLC and you shouldn't have any problems. Really.

MTX-4 is really different from the RRR. Although some things are similar, other things are very different. You should download the instruction manual(s) and read through them before making your final decision.
good point rainer i have stripped gears before but that was my own doing once i set my mesh never happened again when things go wrong check it out first before blaming the car i used to blame the car until i found out it was my error good luck
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Old 02-21-2007, 02:10 PM   #1243
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Default Set-up

W-nats set-up enjoy

front

shock oil 600
diaphragm stock
shock piston 2 hole
spring blue
shock position 1.5
caster angle 1mm
camber angle L2 R1.5
toe angle -1 out
front width 199mm
down stop 0
anti roll bar soft
tire 42
wheel offset 0
tire diam. 62.5
chassis height 7
Solid front
knuckle arm type 0 degree
knuckle arm spacer 0 mm
upper arm pos..roll center stck
servo angle 100%
servo saver 11


rear

Shock oil 800
diaphragm stck
shock piston 2 hole
spring dark blue
shock position 3
wheel spacer 0mm
upper arm height b
camber angle L4 R3.5
toe angle +2
tire diameter 64.5
chassis height 8
lower arm position roll cnter stck
body stratus 3.1
brake normal
rear diff 50,000
tire 45
anit rolll bar soft
downstop 4
spur gear 61/56
pinion gear 17/22
drive ratio 2mm split 23t pulley 384 belt
clutch shoe grey
clutch weight normal
clutch spring stck
clearance .4
adj nut 1.0
end play minimal


Memo- this setup was for a 35 mintue main under low to mid tracion conditions and under large amount of tire wear.....adjust the numbers to match your tire wear and traction conditions....for qualifiers try 37 front and rear and cut tires to 60 rear 58 front and go out there and have fun

Hope this helps
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Last edited by robert maestrey; 02-22-2007 at 06:14 AM.
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Old 02-21-2007, 02:18 PM   #1244
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Robert,

So after 35 minutes, what does your front/rear tire sizes look like?

I've been thinking about running lower shore tires for qualifiers as well, but doesn't that mess you up in the Mains, when you switch back up to 42s? Doesn't the car handle differently??

Thanks,
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Old 02-21-2007, 02:25 PM   #1245
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Originally Posted by rmdhawaii
Robert,

So after 35 minutes, what does your front/rear tire sizes look like?

I've been thinking about running lower shore tires for qualifiers as well, but doesn't that mess you up in the Mains, when you switch back up to 42s? Doesn't the car handle differently??

Thanks,
Rainer

Tires were very small when done with the run........the reason for running the hardness I ran was due to tire wear..a harder compound will wear less in turn I didnt need to make a tire change...if i would have used lets say 37 in the main there is now way I would have been able to finish the race without changing tires...

always try to run the hardest compound without sacrificing traction....
remeber qualifiers are only 5 minutes so 37 are a sure hit for traction.
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