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Old 10-24-2006, 12:28 AM   #571
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Originally Posted by buggynic
I have a question on this sirio engine.
There is always a bit play when I try to move the crankshaft away from the engine. No matter how tight the nut on the flywheel.
the play is around 0.5 mm. Is this normal ? I try different cone under the flywheel but have no luck. I also put some spacer before putting the cone, still I have the play. this not happening with my novarossi S5 engine earlier.

one more question regarding the spur gears. any tip of preventing the strip spur gears ? I try to set correct gear mesh by putting a piece of paper between but it still happening once in a while. I am thinking of making the chassis a bit rough under the bolt/nut. any idea ?

I love this kyosho car alot, I just converted it to rrr-evo. I did not notice the different in handling so far, but I do like the layout of radio plate better.

thanks
Hee I got the same problem too. However, Try to apply a drip of locking adhesive to your screws for the engine mount (see attached sori for the big pic ppl cant seem to make it thumbnail)


which will tigthen the contact and adsorb the vibration during the long run, not too much else you have problem unscrewing. For me I replace the existing screw and add a washer that protects the screw just incase it rubs against the road surface. These screw and washer can also be used on the upper deck of the chasis for sensitive area.

Hope it helps
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:47 AM   #572
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Quote:
Originally Posted by buggynic
I have a question on this sirio engine.
There is always a bit play when I try to move the crankshaft away from the engine. No matter how tight the nut on the flywheel.
the play is around 0.5 mm. Is this normal ? I try different cone under the flywheel but have no luck. I also put some spacer before putting the cone, still I have the play. this not happening with my novarossi S5 engine earlier.

one more question regarding the spur gears. any tip of preventing the strip spur gears ? I try to set correct gear mesh by putting a piece of paper between but it still happening once in a while. I am thinking of making the chassis a bit rough under the bolt/nut. any idea ?

I love this kyosho car alot, I just converted it to rrr-evo. I did not notice the different in handling so far, but I do like the layout of radio plate better.

thanks
It may not be a problem if the play comes from the bearings. Try to watch the inner ring of the outer bearing if it moves together with the crankshaft and the cone. The bearings should have such a play, in order to spin in the operating temperature. However, you need to verify that the bearings are not worn out, before you decide if the play is normal.

Regarding the gears, I do not do it with paper. Just try to mount the engine in such a position where both the gears are first running free and second do not have a play (spurs with pinions). It takes a while to realize which is the correct position.
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Old 10-24-2006, 02:49 AM   #573
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Just a tip for EVERYONE , When setting gear mesh , just hold the pinions and spur gears firmly together while tightening the engine to the engine mount , no paper. When tight you dont want them to be bound up but tight is ok , they will break in . I dont strip gears and this is how I do it. The number one cause of stripped gears is to lose of a gear mesh. Dont be scared to be on the tight side.
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Old 10-24-2006, 06:18 AM   #574
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Mr. Atomic - great job at the Paris Race. You were carving! The car looked amazing - you should change your name to Carver Atomic!!!!!

Splendid Job, my man. TQ and the 60 minute Win -- YA, BUDDY
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Old 10-24-2006, 07:49 AM   #575
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATOMIC
Just a tip for EVERYONE , When setting gear mesh , just hold the pinions and spur gears firmly together while tightening the engine to the engine mount , no paper. When tight you dont want them to be bound up but tight is ok , they will break in . I dont strip gears and this is how I do it. The number one cause of stripped gears is to lose of a gear mesh. Dont be scared to be on the tight side.
for how long will the pinion and spur bold ( nicely) together if we set tighten the meshing in the first place ?
and so does it mean both 1st and 2nd spur and pinion are tighten when we doing the meshing ?
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Old 10-24-2006, 11:00 AM   #576
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATOMIC
Just a tip for EVERYONE , When setting gear mesh , just hold the pinions and spur gears firmly together while tightening the engine to the engine mount , no paper. When tight you dont want them to be bound up but tight is ok , they will break in . I dont strip gears and this is how I do it. The number one cause of stripped gears is to lose of a gear mesh. Dont be scared to be on the tight side.


Are you using the stock pinions or the steel ones? How often are you changing your gears?
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Old 10-24-2006, 12:40 PM   #577
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Yes , you set both 1st and second tight , they will break in after a run or two. They will last a long time this way also. If you take your motor out , just set the mesh the same way again , it will not have to break in again. I use the Aluminum pinions . They wear which is a good thing when setting your mesh with this method.
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Old 10-24-2006, 12:51 PM   #578
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As for changing the gears , the plastic I dont change very often. I ran a set for the whole 2 weeks at the worlds , a southwest series race and now the whole Paris Race this past week. The first gear pinion is the only one that really wears. I ran one for the races above , but put a new one on for the Paris main.

Thanks Rich -The Car was just that easy to drive , it did most of the work.
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Old 10-24-2006, 01:08 PM   #579
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I know this isn't supposed to be in this thread but there is no v-one RR evo threads.... I want to get rid of the floating rear, is there any shock stay/towers that can replace it? Maybe possibly from any other rr/rrr's.
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:20 PM   #580
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COngrats ROn Atomic and the rest of Team Kyosho! keep it up!
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:28 PM   #581
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rmdhawaii


Are you using the stock pinions or the steel ones? How often are you changing your gears?
and ppl thot i was nuts to do this in the mtx4, steel pinions suck by the way.
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Old 10-24-2006, 08:34 PM   #582
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Quote:
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and ppl thot i was nuts to do this in the mtx4, steel pinions suck by the way.
what's wrong with steel pinions?
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Old 10-24-2006, 09:06 PM   #583
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fritzD
what's wrong with steel pinions?
read Atomics post.
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Old 10-24-2006, 09:29 PM   #584
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im using steel pinions. and i never had problems with my drivetrain ever.
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Old 10-24-2006, 11:03 PM   #585
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ATOMIC
Yes , you set both 1st and second tight , they will break in after a run or two. They will last a long time this way also. If you take your motor out , just set the mesh the same way again , it will not have to break in again. I use the Aluminum pinions . They wear which is a good thing when setting your mesh with this method.
Congrats Mr. Atomic

I also use this method especially when the gear have already been run a couple of times. By just holding the pinion and spurs together when tightening the engine down, it gives you a perfect match I have owned two v1rrr wce and haven't stripped a gear. And now the v1rrr evo, no problems with the gears stripping also. I'm using the bock stock aluminum gears that came with the kit. I just made sure that I apply enough threadlock on the engine screws to prevent any movement of the engine. Once the engine moves, bye-bye to the gears
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