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Old 09-14-2009, 10:57 PM   #3166
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Did you solve your problem????
He runs a Mugen now
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Old 09-15-2009, 04:50 AM   #3167
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He runs a Mugen now
I run the car in the UK and managed to strip loads of gears. changed everything on the car...bearings...lay shaft....one-way....put bolt through brace with a nut for more security...changed clutch to serpent from kyosho...changed from 1 piece mount to 2 piece engine mount..and back....changed bearings in clutch...

In the end it turned out to be the motor....it ran great, but over time there had been an increase in wear in the front bearing and when bolted in the car without the clutch on I could rock the crank ever so slightly in and out of mesh (if the gears were on) this problem was resolved but cost me around 130 in gears alone before finding it!!! the movement was only around .3mm in total but enough to move out of mesh enough to whiz the teeth off particularly 2nd gear!!!
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Old 09-15-2009, 06:15 AM   #3168
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I run the car in the UK and managed to strip loads of gears. changed everything on the car...bearings...lay shaft....one-way....put bolt through brace with a nut for more security...changed clutch to serpent from kyosho...changed from 1 piece mount to 2 piece engine mount..and back....changed bearings in clutch...

In the end it turned out to be the motor....it ran great, but over time there had been an increase in wear in the front bearing and when bolted in the car without the clutch on I could rock the crank ever so slightly in and out of mesh (if the gears were on) this problem was resolved but cost me around 130 in gears alone before finding it!!! the movement was only around .3mm in total but enough to move out of mesh enough to whiz the teeth off particularly 2nd gear!!!
Please explain....you had to replace the front bearing within the engine, then the problem went away???...I've practically replace every part on the car as well...rotated the crank to see whether there is movement, but none that I can see...I don't understand your explanation on how you verified this....you bolted the engine on the car without the clutch bell..or without the clutch, but with the clutch bell??? Did you replace the front engine bearing yourself?..doesn't one need a special puller for this?

thx!
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Old 09-15-2009, 03:37 PM   #3169
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1. Bolt the engine in the car...no clutch, just the engine.
2. grab hold of the end of the crank and waggle it forward and backward. There only need be a small amount of play in the bearings for a large amount of movement to be found at the end of the crank.
3. If you are not sure about the amount of play you have then ask a fellow racer and feel the play in their car/engine and compare.....that is how I did it.

To replace an engine bearing is easy...strip the engine down to just the crank case and place in a warm oven for 5-10 mins 120 deg c.
Whilst hot the old bearings will simply push out and sometimes will just fall out.
To insert new bearings place the new bearing in a fridge or freezer for an hour, heat the crank case as before and the new bearings will drop into place. Just ensure that the new bearings are properly located.....job done...just let the engine cool down slowly...perhaps put back in the oven with it switched off....fast cooling can cause distortion/cracks in the casting.
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Old 09-15-2009, 04:46 PM   #3170
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1. Bolt the engine in the car...no clutch, just the engine.
2. grab hold of the end of the crank and waggle it forward and backward. There only need be a small amount of play in the bearings for a large amount of movement to be found at the end of the crank.
3. If you are not sure about the amount of play you have then ask a fellow racer and feel the play in their car/engine and compare.....that is how I did it.

To replace an engine bearing is easy...strip the engine down to just the crank case and place in a warm oven for 5-10 mins 120 deg c.
Whilst hot the old bearings will simply push out and sometimes will just fall out.
To insert new bearings place the new bearing in a fridge or freezer for an hour, heat the crank case as before and the new bearings will drop into place. Just ensure that the new bearings are properly located.....job done...just let the engine cool down slowly...perhaps put back in the oven with it switched off....fast cooling can cause distortion/cracks in the casting.
Appreciate the advice!
I had a look and I find that there is no movement left to right (side to side). There is some movement front to back, I would have thought this to be normal. I have a spare front bearing and it seems that the bearing allows movement front to back (inner race of bearing flexible).
Would there be anything visual on the bearing that could confirm it is no longer good? Perhaps upon removal?
Thx!
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:14 PM   #3171
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He runs a Mugen now
Yup... With a Serpent Transmission...

It was nice to meet ya at the nats, Scott.

Take care.
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Old 09-15-2009, 10:16 PM   #3172
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Yup... With a Serpent Transmission...

It was nice to meet ya at the nats, Scott.

Take care.
Nice meeting you as well.
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Old 09-16-2009, 12:25 PM   #3173
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Hi,

Just want to know what is the lates V one RRR model?
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Old 09-16-2009, 01:06 PM   #3174
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Hi,

Just want to know what is the lates V one RRR model?
31263B, v-one-rrr evo2 wc team edition

long title.
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Old 09-16-2009, 02:20 PM   #3175
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Appreciate the advice!
I had a look and I find that there is no movement left to right (side to side). There is some movement front to back, I would have thought this to be normal. I have a spare front bearing and it seems that the bearing allows movement front to back (inner race of bearing flexible).
Would there be anything visual on the bearing that could confirm it is no longer good? Perhaps upon removal?
Thx!
If you are having problems then just replace the engine bearings...It is also worth looking at the crank where the bearing sits to see of it is worn...(tis is easier to see with a black hard coated crank of course. What engine are you using and how old is it? (running time)
You would be surprised how much a little wear in these areas can cause movement at the end of the crank!
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:23 PM   #3176
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If you are having problems then just replace the engine bearings...It is also worth looking at the crank where the bearing sits to see of it is worn...(tis is easier to see with a black hard coated crank of course. What engine are you using and how old is it? (running time)
You would be surprised how much a little wear in these areas can cause movement at the end of the crank!
JP Eagle....only 4 races on it...however, I did have a crash where the car was airborne. The car landed on all fours and the engine still running great...but 2nd spur gears braking ever since. I did manage to compare the the play on the crankshaft of the Eagle with an older FX12 (but fully refurbished with new bearings). The refurbished FX12 mad significantly more play than the newer Eagle...interesting..I'll have to open it up and see.

I've read so many tips on how to mesh the gears, do you also mesh the gears tight such that they are noisy at first (gears click)?

Thx
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Old 09-16-2009, 07:46 PM   #3177
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I never have to mesh my gears so tightly they are noisy. This kinda stuff is so frustrating to read about. (not as frustrating as having it happen though). I ran the MTX-4 for quite a while before I moved to Kyosho and didn't have unexplained gear stripping problems with either car. I have been running the RRR for more than 2.5 years on all kinds of tracks without these problems. Keep looking.
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Old 09-16-2009, 09:25 PM   #3178
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Default 2 speed clutch adjustment

Can anyone confirm whether there should be play with the 2 speed clutch shoe (FM360) when installed on the 2 speed holder (FM361). In other words, should the 2 speed clutch shoe rock a little when installed on it metal holder??

I thought I understood that there should be some play from the guys at the track to avoid spur gear stripping, but I also read over here that there should be no play...please confirm?

Thx
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:27 AM   #3179
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I do not overly mesh the gears. I tend to mesh 2nd gear without the 1 gear on so that i can get 2nd perfect then run 1st with whatever mesh provided it isnt too much play.
The other thing I can suggest is taking the engine out of the engine mount and checking that the engine bolts wind far enough into the mount so that the gap mwhen wound in is smaller than the thickness of the engine mounting flange. If your bolts are too long then when you put your engine back in it may look like the head of the bolt is clamping down on the engine flange, but is actually stopping a fraction short, allowing the engine to flex from the mount under load.
I have also heard of the oneway bearing in the 2 speed locking which can also cause stripping as the 2 speed comes in.
Check the gear change point isnt too late or the clutch slipping causing heat in the pinion. How long do you run typically before stripping a gear...is it within 5 mins of a new gear or after only several runs?
Is the track bumpy?
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Old 09-17-2009, 11:32 AM   #3180
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Originally Posted by mhavlena View Post
Can anyone confirm whether there should be play with the 2 speed clutch shoe (FM360) when installed on the 2 speed holder (FM361). In other words, should the 2 speed clutch shoe rock a little when installed on it metal holder??

I thought I understood that there should be some play from the guys at the track to avoid spur gear stripping, but I also read over here that there should be no play...please confirm?

Thx
The 2 speed rocking on the metal part is normal. Just make sure you adjust the 2 speed shoes so that 2nd gear just misses when you put it on. This ensures that as the shoes expand to engage 2nd they slide and then grip the 2nd gear . If this is not adjusted well, the shoes snap out into the 2nd gear and there is a bigger load on the spurs as it changes.
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