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Old 08-25-2008, 10:16 PM   #3076
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Originally Posted by bradley70 View Post
Alright I could really use some setup help on this car. I've really been struggling to find a balance of good steering and rear bite. I mostly run a solid front axle because of the ability to break etc. The car is twitchy loose, but with a big onpower push and the car doesn't feel in the track kind of floating around. Medium size track with fairly good grip!! I'm really lost right now!! Any help would greatly be appreciated.

Brad
Which body are you running? Are you using different bodies for different tracks? Whats your droop set at?

I use a East Civic and a diff (100k) on a mid size track and a 3.1 with a solid on a big high bite track. The car has the same set up except the front diff/spool.

I would suggest take .5 toe out of rear and add 20% front sway bar or thicken up rear diff fluid. These thing will take some rear traction away from the car on power(get rid of an on power push) and add traction off power.
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Old 08-25-2008, 10:24 PM   #3077
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bradley70 post your current setup with a brief description of the track layout, flowing corners like 1/8 tracks or 90 degree bends ? Bumpy track or smooth.

Traction which grade asphalt ? Grade 1 or 4 or other material ? Temperature outside.

Car setup description from cambers toe etc to clutch, tire choice and oil for diff and suspension.

if you are in a rush then take a look at some of the kyosho driver setup sheets for med traction tracks and work your way on it from there, I think the Paris track Josh C had a setup for medium traction track.

From your post I am guessing that roll bars are loose and might need a look at suspension to stiffen it up, might need to change spring and or oil.
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Old 08-25-2008, 11:55 PM   #3078
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OK here is my current setup maybe I;m missing the obvioius:

Front:
kit blue springs
2nd hole in on tower
0 degree front carriers
500 wt oil
stock pistons
spool
sway bar flat for softest
#10 ackerman
199 mm track width
1.5 camber
1mm droop on hudy gauge
38 shore jaco tires

Track temperature 125 to 150..
Track size www.speedworldraceway.com has actual picture of my home track.


Rear:
Kit blue springs
3rd hole in on tower
bottom outside camber link
500 wt oil
stock pistons
200 mm track width
2 degees of rear toe
2.1 m rear swaybar
30k rear diff oil
4 degree rear camber
38 shore jaco tires

Clutch setting
MSR clutch spring
1.2mm to top of clutch nut
.5 mm gap
.2mm end play
Grey clutch shoe

Car is very twitchy with hardly any mid to exit steering and rear grip snaps loose very easy. We have both 180's and 90 degree corners so the car!!
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Old 08-26-2008, 12:05 AM   #3079
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Bradley:

I have a question or two for you as well to possibly help you. When you say on power, I need to clarify one thing. To me there are 3 states of power:

Car is accelerating such as when exiting a turn.
Car is decelerating (slowing down)
Car is at terminal velocity.... car is at full speed and under power, but isn't really getting any faster.

When you say on power, are you talking about accelerting, or at terminal velocity.

Also, what positions are your hinge pins in (roll center) and what is your front camber setting?

Most of your setup looks pretty good but I think your tires are less than great (NOT A JACO FAN) and you may want to look at harder rear tires which won't help with the twitch, but will let the car turn better.

Also, which clutch are you using and with what engine?
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Old 08-26-2008, 12:21 AM   #3080
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Scott the car gets into the corner very well, however when I try to get back to pick up the throttle the car won't rotate it picks up a bigtime push. So I guess you would consider this the 1st one. Exiting a corner

Hinge pin locations front upper middle 2nd from the highest possible
Hinge Pin location Rear lower middle 2nd from the lowest possible

I have tried the sirio power clutch with little success, so I went back to the stock clutch with the MSR clutch spring, also tried the orion.

Running the JP Eagle TL3

Also is 30k a little light on the rear diff oil?

Thanks,

Brad
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Old 08-26-2008, 12:35 AM   #3081
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I would work with the shores of the tire first and check the car for tweak.

You might want to stiffen the roll bars a bit if you feel the car a a little mushy, based on the fact that you say you have good traction.

Front camber set it to 1 and go back down to 0.5 once you got stability. Change your shore for front to 40.

Rear Camber set it back to 3
Change your shore to 42 on back.

Check your suspension inside out, chances are they are not working so well, oil level etc, also check your tweak.

What do you mean by "the car won't rotate it picks up a bigtime push" are you saying it kicks out all of a sudden from the corner or it's slow coming out of the corner, if it is slow then you can increase the oil diff wt that will give you more punch.
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Old 08-26-2008, 12:58 AM   #3082
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With regards to the twitch problem, I would try moving the hinge pins to the following locations.

In the rear, lower them all the way down. In the front do the opposite. All the way up. You didn't say where your front caster was set but you can also move all your caster clips to the front moving the upper front a-arm all the way back. That will probably help both of your problems a bit.
To help with the steering issue, reduce your front droop. This will transfer less weight to the rear under acceleration.

Also, try running a harder rear tire than what you run on the front.

The stock Kyosho spring works quite well with that clutch, but I admit I normally run the 2D clutch (using 4 flyweights though). I always use the stock Kyosho spring when I run the Kyosho clutch. I have only run the Power clutch on the Sirio engine.
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Old 08-26-2008, 01:20 AM   #3083
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Bradley70,
Also Change out your #10 Achramen to a #12, This Is gonna help you with mid to Exit on power steering alot.

Narrow Up your car 1 to 1.5 mm in the front & narrow up your Rear By 1mm. I have noticed this car feels more " into the track " a little narrower. I run mine @ 197 front & 198 rear on out med grip track .

4 deg. camber in the rear seems a little much. I would back it down to 3 deg.

Also As SheSha Has posted, Change your shore up. Make the front 1 shore softer then the rear 38 front - 40 rear or 40 front - 42 rear.

hope this helps.
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Old 08-26-2008, 06:51 AM   #3084
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How do you fill your shocks? When I first started, I couldnt get my car to perform, and it was because the rebound on the shocks was stupid high. To check if its alright, turn the shock upside down without the spring, push it and let it go, should come back no more than 3/4 of the shock and no less than 1/4

Dont think Jaco's are the problem... But how do you measure your rear track width? Jaco's are usually 0 degrees, so that means you have to unscrew the rear pivot balls.

If your taking track width with the hudy, you got to be careful with the wheels. If I used Kyosho's 2 degree, I had to set it to 196mm to get 200mm with the wheels. Also... are you using the 0 degree dogbones/CVDs on the rear?

I had a problem once that my cvd was skipping because I had to unscrew the pivot balls to accomodate the 0 degree tires...

Also... what oil you using on the rear?
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Old 08-26-2008, 07:31 AM   #3085
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Default Change Ackerman or steering angle?

Hi all,

Im trying to get rid of on power oversteer coming out of one particular corner and onto a chicane at my local track. Its a fast flowing 1/8 track with high grip. All the other corners Im confortable with i.e. really good/sharp corner entry and exit is fine.

I have managed to get the front wheels to wear flat and the rears to cone slightly on the inside by:
- I have put the rear camber links to the IN position to make them longer
- I have removed the blue collar from the camber links to reduce their angle
- 2 deg camber on fronts
- 1 deg toe out on fronts
- 3 deg cambe on rears
- front spool
- current ackerman is 11
- roll centre stock settings

The changes above has improved the handling of the car overall except for this particular section

Im running Futaba digital servos (9451) which have a lot of steering and after playing Virtual RC I found out it had an option for steering angle and thought this could be my problem (as it made the car in the game push slightly once the steering angle was reduced i.e. more stable)

I was told however to change the ackerman to decrease steering. My question is:
- Is it better to reduce the steering angle or change the ackerman?
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Old 08-26-2008, 09:09 AM   #3086
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Scott what would you recommend I set the front and rear droop at? I'm currently 1mm in front and 3mm in rear on the hudy droop gauges. Also do you typically run 30k in the rear diff?

Thanks for all the recommendations everyone,

Brad
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:39 AM   #3087
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Scott: also know about Brad's driving/setup: he like's the car to turn under traction with a tiny bit of entry push, like an electric, He doesn't like to rotate the rear 'under power'/sliding it.

Don't get me wrong he is crazy fast, just a style thing.
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Old 08-26-2008, 10:45 AM   #3088
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bradley70 View Post
Scott what would you recommend I set the front and rear droop at? I'm currently 1mm in front and 3mm in rear on the hudy droop gauges. Also do you typically run 30k in the rear diff?

Thanks for all the recommendations everyone,

Brad

Normally, I run the same droop settings you are using, but with the problem you are describing I would change the front droop to 2mm. I usually run 20k rear diff oil, but it really depends on the track. At the Great Lakes Challenge I ran 50k (highest I have ever run) and the last two races I ran 30k, although I should have probably used 20k at the most recent race. Like I said though 20k is what I run the most.
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:36 PM   #3089
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Have a few clutch quesitons for you guys. I have only run two clutches on my car the stock 3d clutch and with Sirio Power Clutch. I have great luck with the stock clutch but have been looking for more spool up so I purchased the Sirio Power Clutch. I have set the clutch to the settins recommended by several on this thread and I just can't the clutch to work correctly. The motor boggs coming out of the corner with absolutely no rip and double and sometimes triple shifts coming onto the straight. I take the Sirio Clutch off and bolt the stock clutch on and it works flawless. Am I missing something here? Any suggestions or other clutchs I could look into?

Currenly have the clutch set at .05 with .50 gap with little endplay.

Please help!!
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Old 09-07-2008, 10:52 PM   #3090
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Bradley, you might want to check the clutch shoe, is it sliding back and forth freely, on my sirio clutch package the shoe hole guides were tight i had them cleaned up and drilled for a little more smoothness, it sure kicks hard when setup right.

You have the sirio clutch manual right ? have you referred to J Cyrul recommendations ?
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